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Maison Margiela S/S 2009

Art / Architecture / Design

Martin Margiela’s Spring/Summer 2009 collection for his namesake house marked the Belgian designer’s fortieth womenswear show, and twentieth anniversary since first launching Maison Martin Margiela in 1988. Over the course of two decades, Margiela’s non-conformist attitude and conceptual approach to design produced some of the most forward-thinking, radical collections of the 1990s and early 2000s.


Posted March 25th, 2018 By Colby Mugrabi

For spring 2009 the designer showed a self-reflective collection, revisiting pivotal moments throughout the house’s history through the eyes of present day, further challenging many of the fashion codes and concepts he introduced years, sometimes decades prior. The show opened with a reproduction of Margiela’s first jacket from spring 1989, followed by a simple t-shirt dress printed with a negative image of the original double-breasted blazer, Margiela first utilized this fabrication technique in spring 1996 when he showed a collection of unadorned dresses and skirts printed with negative photographs of sequins and other ornate materials, giving each piece a trompe l’oeil effect. The designer toyed with perspective through a number of flattened jackets, in reference to his spring/summer 1998 collection which studied geometry, questioning how two-dimensional garments could lie flat on a female’s body, and paid homage to the ‘replica’ line the designer introduced in 2003 through the inclusion of two identically styled ‘twins’, denoting the women being replicas of one another. Key themes such as anonymity and recycling were expressed though models’ blanked out, stocking-covered faces, and in the use of reworked, repurposed materials. Margiela has continuously challenged cut and proportion through the introduction of circular silhouettes, pointed shoulder pads – in 2006 – and famously in his fall/winter 2000 collection of enlarged garments, which were denoted in the final three looks of his spring 2009 show. True to form, in celebration of twenty years in fashion Margiela, remarkably unknown by face, let the clothes speak for themselves, and speak they did.

Mmm ss 2009 mood board
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References

Carlo Mollino

Casa Devalle (The House of Oblivion), 1940, Torino, Italy

Mollino 1939 devalle 068 640x360

Meret Oppenheim by Claude Lê Anh

In a paper jacket Oppenheim created for an Italian designer

95659894 o

Man Ray

Portrait of Juliet, 1945

Man ray  portrait of juliet  1945

Man Ray

Venus Restaurée, 1936

Man ray  titled  dated 1936 71

Meyer Vaisman

Untitled Turkey XVII (Marie Antoinette), 1992

U0000112big

Guy Bourdin and Eva Stenram

Walking Legs Series

Guy  bourdin eva stenram 1

Meret Oppenheim

My Nurse, 1936

0a070593e9f7c7d654d152553f9ef555

Adam Fuss

“Christening Dress” photogram from series “My Ghost”, 2001

Adam fuss photogram   from the series my ghost  2001

Robert Mapplethorpe

Andy Warhol, 1986

27artsct1sub master768

Carlo Mollino

Casa Devalle (The House of Oblivion) Photographs, 1939

614bd3fcc5dab7600b24bde6d9414e23

Carlo Mollino

Casa Devalle (The House of Oblivion) Photographs, 1939

74042fed8f90933ac91e719c4af69135

Guy Bourdin

Guy bourdin

Irving Penn

Christian Lacroix Duchesse Satin Dress, Paris, 1995

Irving penn  christian lacroix duchesse satin dress  paris  1995

Meyer Vaisman

Untitled Turkey XVI Peg, 1992

Meyer vaisman turkey

Nan Goldin

Jimmy Paulette and Taboo! in the bathroom, NYC, 1991

Nan goldin

The Seven Sutherland Sisters of the late 1800s

The sutherland sisters  by 1884 the sisters were signed with barnum and bailey with p.t. barnum referring to them as    the

Hans Bellmer

Untitled (Unica Zürn) from “Unica Tied Up,” 1958

Unica z  rn  photographed by hans bellmer  1958. from     unica tied up

Yves Saint Laurent

Fall/Winter 1966

Ysl fw 1966
References
Mollino 1939 devalle 068 640x360

Carlo Mollino

Casa Devalle (The House of Oblivion), 1940, Torino, Italy

1 of 18

95659894 o

Meret Oppenheim by Claude Lê Anh

In a paper jacket Oppenheim created for an Italian designer

2 of 18

Man ray  portrait of juliet  1945

Man Ray

Portrait of Juliet, 1945

3 of 18

Man ray  titled  dated 1936 71

Man Ray

Venus Restaurée, 1936

4 of 18

U0000112big

Meyer Vaisman

Untitled Turkey XVII (Marie Antoinette), 1992

5 of 18

Guy  bourdin eva stenram 1

Guy Bourdin and Eva Stenram

Walking Legs Series

6 of 18

0a070593e9f7c7d654d152553f9ef555

Meret Oppenheim

My Nurse, 1936

7 of 18

Adam fuss photogram   from the series my ghost  2001

Adam Fuss

“Christening Dress” photogram from series “My Ghost”, 2001

8 of 18

27artsct1sub master768

Robert Mapplethorpe

Andy Warhol, 1986

9 of 18

614bd3fcc5dab7600b24bde6d9414e23

Carlo Mollino

Casa Devalle (The House of Oblivion) Photographs, 1939

10 of 18

74042fed8f90933ac91e719c4af69135

Carlo Mollino

Casa Devalle (The House of Oblivion) Photographs, 1939

11 of 18

Guy bourdin

Guy Bourdin

12 of 18

Irving penn  christian lacroix duchesse satin dress  paris  1995

Irving Penn

Christian Lacroix Duchesse Satin Dress, Paris, 1995

13 of 18

Meyer vaisman turkey

Meyer Vaisman

Untitled Turkey XVI Peg, 1992

14 of 18

Nan goldin

Nan Goldin

Jimmy Paulette and Taboo! in the bathroom, NYC, 1991

15 of 18

The sutherland sisters  by 1884 the sisters were signed with barnum and bailey with p.t. barnum referring to them as    the

The Seven Sutherland Sisters of the late 1800s

16 of 18

Unica z  rn  photographed by hans bellmer  1958. from     unica tied up

Hans Bellmer

Untitled (Unica Zürn) from “Unica Tied Up,” 1958

17 of 18

Ysl fw 1966

Yves Saint Laurent

Fall/Winter 1966

18 of 18

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