Sarah Burton’s winter trip to Cornwall, the southernmost county of the United Kingdom, inspired the designer to celebrate the mysterious powers of nature in her fall/winter 2017 collection for Alexander McQueen.
Burton cited paganism subcultures, ancient traditions, stone circles, medieval churches, creative communities, and the ‘Cloutie’ or ‘wishing’ trees – onto which people tie rags and ribbons as wishes and mementos – as the initial sources of inspiration for the fall collection. The designer’s ability to mix old-world references and tribal styles with modern silhouettes allowed for endless decorative possibilities and means of couture-level craftsmanship.
Throughout the collection’s 45 mouthwatering looks was a cacophony of highlights – long dresses decorated with colorful needlework and sensual, tailored pantsuits for evening, as well as structured overcoats and asymmetrical belted jackets. Artisanal embroidery and vibrant cross-stitching atop leather garments created tribal intensity while making medieval inspiration appear hopelessly modern. Tailored blazers and tuxedo jackets nipped at the waist were worn over wide-legged trousers, while tulle gowns dripped with delicate forms of embellishment. Burton cited the ‘Cloutie’ tree as the source of inspiration behind the collection’s shoelace detailing, while some designs included woven ribbons that gave the appearance of colorful tweed.
McQueen’s fall/winter 2017 collection was inclusive of the British countryside, female power, and medieval traditions, seen through a contemporary lens. Burton channeled every detail of Cornwall’s rich Celtic history to create a unique collection that both honored and modernized the Middle Ages – one that would have made the house’s late founder tremendously proud.

References
- 1
- 2
Juan O'Gorman
UNAM Library, 1949-52

Wassily Kandinsky
Das Bunte Leben, 1907

Florian Schmid
Stitching Concrete, 2009

Athabaskan Beaded Hide Legging
1890

Anni Albers
Under Way, 1963

Yves Saint Laurent
F/W 1969-1970, France

Crow War Shirt
Crow Beaded Hide War Shirt

Gloria Vanderbilt
Bedroom II, 1975
Hector Guimard
Architectural Elements, c. 1900s

Hector Guimard
Jardinière, c. 1900s

Morris Louis
Vega, 1961

Juan O'Gorman
O'Gorman House Pedregal de San Ángel, México, 1954

South Netherlandish
The Unicorn in Captivity, 1495-1505

Jean Lucrat
Le Chant du Monde, 1961

William and Mary
Marquetry Cabinet, 1690

Yup'ik
Finger mask, 19th century

Azzedine Alaïa
Fall 2016

References

Juan O'Gorman
UNAM Library, 1949-52
1 of 17

Wassily Kandinsky
Das Bunte Leben, 1907
2 of 17

Florian Schmid
Stitching Concrete, 2009
3 of 17

Athabaskan Beaded Hide Legging
1890
4 of 17

Anni Albers
Under Way, 1963
5 of 17

Yves Saint Laurent
F/W 1969-1970, France
6 of 17

Crow War Shirt
Crow Beaded Hide War Shirt
7 of 17
Gloria Vanderbilt
Bedroom II, 1975
8 of 17

Hector Guimard
Architectural Elements, c. 1900s
9 of 17

Hector Guimard
Jardinière, c. 1900s
10 of 17

Morris Louis
Vega, 1961
11 of 17

Juan O'Gorman
O'Gorman House Pedregal de San Ángel, México, 1954
12 of 17

South Netherlandish
The Unicorn in Captivity, 1495-1505
13 of 17

Jean Lucrat
Le Chant du Monde, 1961
14 of 17

William and Mary
Marquetry Cabinet, 1690
15 of 17

Yup'ik
Finger mask, 19th century
16 of 17
