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Alexander McQueen S/S 2005

Art / Architecture / Design / Fashion

The late Alexander McQueen was not known for taking a straightforward approach to fashion, yet the designer’s Spring/Summer 2005 collection saw an accessible interpretation of everyday dressing contrasted with remastered examples of McQueen’s most sought after garments.


Posted November 5th, 2018 By Colby Mugrabi

Act one of the show brought about a series of light, feminine looks. McQueen tied together Edwardian references, schoolgirl elements, and touches of nautical allusions through delicate frills, sheer dresses, knee grazing shorts, sailor suits and smart trousers. The collection’s second chapter was an abrupt shift to McQueen’s characteristically extravagant designs and employment of couture techniques. Molded corsets were featured prominently, marking another type of femininity focused on the female anatomy, and Hemlines were finished with horsehair, reminiscent of the designer’s fall/winter 2000 “Eshu” collection. References to archetypal American sportswear were touched on through the collection’s ornate football helmets, shoulder pads and thigh-high riding boots, while odes to the far east were seen in garment’s delicate kimono detailing and looks bearing classic Japanese imagery.

As for the collection’s ‘chess board’ set design, the designer sought inspiration from the chess match played J. K. Rowling’s breakthrough 1997 novel, ‘Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone’. By the end of the runway show, each model found themselves as pawns in the midst of a live chess game. Mechanical, robot-like voiceovers gave unfeeling directions to the ‘players’ as they moved about the board while the game was centered around two queens, played impeccably by models Gemma Ward and Hana Soukupouva. The idea for the chess game stemmed from the designer’s interest in capturing different types of women from divergent cultures, women who were then treated as game pieces, forced to face opposing characters.

The diverse cultural influences infused throughout the show pay testament to the designer’s progressive ways, something that fashion struggle’s to find in the industry today. Spring/Summer 2005 wove together a masterpiece of the house’s greatest hits, revisited and rethought in a manner only achieved by Alexander McQueen.

Mcqueen ss 2005 muse board
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References

Man Ray

Juliet, 1950

Man ray  juliet  1950

Ceremonial Whisk

Ethiopia, 19th Century

Ceremonial whisk  ethiopia  19th century

Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec

Jane Avril, 1899

Henri de toulouse lautrec  jane avril  1899

Gilbert Adrian

Costume for The Great Ziegfeld, 1936

Gilbert adrian  costume for the great ziegfeld  1936

Late Renaissance Marble Inlaid Table Top

Roman, Late 16th Century

Late renaissance marble inlaid table top  roman  late 16th century

Issey Miyake

Plastic Corset, 1980

Issey miyake  plastic corset  1980

Man Ray

Silver Chess Set, 1926

Man ray  silver chess set  1926

An Italian Inlaid Table Top

Florence, 1620- 1630

An italian inlaid table top  florence  1620  1630

Qing Dynasty

Chinese Porcelain Vase, Mid 18th Century

Chinese porcelain vase  qing dynasty  mid 18th century

Gilbert Adrian

Roan Stallion Dress, 1943

Gilbert adrian  roan stallion dress  1943

Louise Dahl-Wolfe

Harper's Bazaar, December 1951

Louise dahl wolfe  harper s bazaar  december 1951

Marie Antoinette

Pink Arrival Gown, 1938

Marie antoinette  pink arrival gown  1938

Nobuyoshi Araki

Nobuyoshi araki photography

Pair of Royal Carved Giltwood and Gesso Voyeuses

1789

Pair of royal carved giltwood and gesso voyeuses  1789

Robe à la Française

1760-1770

Robe a   la franc  aise   1760 1770

Rokuon-ji

Kyoto, Japan, 1397

Rokuon ji  kyoto  japan  1397

Silk Brocade Dress

English, 1750

Silk brocade dress  english  1750

Yves Saint Laurent

Haute Couture Dress, Fall Winter 1969

Yves saint laurent  haute couture dress  fall winter 1969
References
Man ray  juliet  1950

Man Ray

Juliet, 1950

1 of 18

Ceremonial whisk  ethiopia  19th century

Ceremonial Whisk

Ethiopia, 19th Century

2 of 18

Henri de toulouse lautrec  jane avril  1899

Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec

Jane Avril, 1899

3 of 18

Gilbert adrian  costume for the great ziegfeld  1936

Gilbert Adrian

Costume for The Great Ziegfeld, 1936

4 of 18

Late renaissance marble inlaid table top  roman  late 16th century

Late Renaissance Marble Inlaid Table Top

Roman, Late 16th Century

5 of 18

Issey miyake  plastic corset  1980

Issey Miyake

Plastic Corset, 1980

6 of 18

Man ray  silver chess set  1926

Man Ray

Silver Chess Set, 1926

7 of 18

An italian inlaid table top  florence  1620  1630

An Italian Inlaid Table Top

Florence, 1620- 1630

8 of 18

Chinese porcelain vase  qing dynasty  mid 18th century

Qing Dynasty

Chinese Porcelain Vase, Mid 18th Century

9 of 18

Gilbert adrian  roan stallion dress  1943

Gilbert Adrian

Roan Stallion Dress, 1943

10 of 18

Louise dahl wolfe  harper s bazaar  december 1951

Louise Dahl-Wolfe

Harper's Bazaar, December 1951

11 of 18

Marie antoinette  pink arrival gown  1938

Marie Antoinette

Pink Arrival Gown, 1938

12 of 18

Nobuyoshi araki photography

Nobuyoshi Araki

13 of 18

Pair of royal carved giltwood and gesso voyeuses  1789

Pair of Royal Carved Giltwood and Gesso Voyeuses

1789

14 of 18

Robe a   la franc  aise   1760 1770

Robe à la Française

1760-1770

15 of 18

Rokuon ji  kyoto  japan  1397

Rokuon-ji

Kyoto, Japan, 1397

16 of 18

Silk brocade dress  english  1750

Silk Brocade Dress

English, 1750

17 of 18

Yves saint laurent  haute couture dress  fall winter 1969

Yves Saint Laurent

Haute Couture Dress, Fall Winter 1969

18 of 18


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