Fall/winter 2012 was a season of transforming and transporting at the house of Balenciaga. With a robust roster of collections under his design belt, all of which have been rooted in the brand’s iconic heritage dating back to the early twentieth century, creative director Nicolas Ghesquière was looking towards the future this season; coincidentally, or perhaps not, fall/winter 2012 came to be the designer’s final cold-weather collection for the brand which he singlehandedly resurrected in the late 1990s.
The runway show’s neon-lit, floating office setting, perched atop the 27th floor of a Paris skyscraper, an elevation seeming almost like outer space in Europe’s most beautiful, pre-war city, set a perfect tone for the collection’s futuristic corporate clothing. Ghesquière presented an offering of conceptual everyday ‘office’ wear, with highly developed fabrics, new age animal prints – leopard spots rendered through padded appliqué, inlayed zebra stripes and jacquard snakeskin – contradictory shapes, simple silhouettes and low-slung heels for easy mobility. From a commercial standpoint, the show’s sci-fi sweatshirts were easily covetable for even the most uninformed Balenciaga fan. In hindsight, these relaxed, graphic-printed garments were early, contemporary examples of streetwear invading high fashion. Over the course of the past five years, Balenciaga’s ‘Join a Weird Trip’ sweatshirts have become iconic visuals of the house, while ‘dressed up’ active-wear has infiltrated the runways of Paris fashion week; and therein lies the genius of Nicolas Ghesquière, a highly innovative creative director with an esteemed ability to foresee the future of fashion.

References
- 1
- 2
Peter Cook
Diagram of Sponge Building, 1975

Maria Pergay
Chaise Anneaux, 1968

Norma Kamali
Converse Heels, 1983

Alberto Fraser
Nastro Table Lamp, 1983-84
Shiro Kuramata
Furniture in Irregular Forms, Side 1, 1970

Charles Ray
Fall '91

Peter Saville
Joy Division, Unknown Pleasures, 1979

Oscar Niemeyer
United Nations Headquarters, 1952

Marc Newson
Extruded Table 3, 2008

Dan Flavin
Alternate Diagonals of March 2, 1964 (to Don Judd), 1964
Eileen Gray
Non-Conformist Chair, 1926

Blair Thurman
Mr. White, 2008

Superstudio
The Continuous Monument (On the Rocky Coast), 1969

Eero Saarinen
TWA Flight Center, 1962

Robert Longo
Untitled, 1981

Yohji Yamamoto garments shot by Helmut Newton
Vogue US, July 1983

Serge Mouille
TOTEM 170 cm and TOTEM 117 cm

Yona Friedman
Spatial City, project, Aerian Perspective, 1958/1959

References

Peter Cook
Diagram of Sponge Building, 1975
1 of 18

Maria Pergay
Chaise Anneaux, 1968
2 of 18

Norma Kamali
Converse Heels, 1983
3 of 18
Alberto Fraser
Nastro Table Lamp, 1983-84
4 of 18

Shiro Kuramata
Furniture in Irregular Forms, Side 1, 1970
5 of 18

Charles Ray
Fall '91
6 of 18

Peter Saville
Joy Division, Unknown Pleasures, 1979
7 of 18

Oscar Niemeyer
United Nations Headquarters, 1952
8 of 18

Marc Newson
Extruded Table 3, 2008
9 of 18
Dan Flavin
Alternate Diagonals of March 2, 1964 (to Don Judd), 1964
10 of 18

Eileen Gray
Non-Conformist Chair, 1926
11 of 18

Blair Thurman
Mr. White, 2008
12 of 18

Superstudio
The Continuous Monument (On the Rocky Coast), 1969
13 of 18

Eero Saarinen
TWA Flight Center, 1962
14 of 18

Robert Longo
Untitled, 1981
15 of 18

Yohji Yamamoto garments shot by Helmut Newton
Vogue US, July 1983
16 of 18

Serge Mouille
TOTEM 170 cm and TOTEM 117 cm
17 of 18
