For Demna Gvasalia’s first runway collection as creative director of Balenciaga, he sought to modernize archetypal designs from the house’s storied archive. Gvasalia’s masterful ability at constructing a distinct attitude through cut and form was expressed this season in the collection’s hunched-shouldered, hip-jutting opening looks, giving the model’s bodies a natural S-Curve, a pose popularized by Balenciaga women of the 1950s. The collection’s oversized puffer jackets and down coats went through a similar deconstructed treatment and were manipulated to fall just below the wearer’s shoulders, while the glamorous side of Balenciaga was seen in the jewel-encrusted stilettos on model’s feet and intricately embroidered floral looks. Exaggerated, tent dresses made of collaged scarves also constituted key looks, while there was a uniform storyline of oversized bags, skirts and coats. If Gvasalia’s first runway collection is any indication of what is to come, the designer’s vision for the future of Balenciaga is an exciting exercise in the beauty of contradiction, classic and new age, edited yet robust, simple and complex, a quintessential design language that will keep everyone guessing.
![Balenciaga fw 2016 muse board](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/1VUS2vpKJyiyOyiw4AKq2/934195a5aa4496a03099610eb2fcb72d/Balenciaga_FW_2016_Muse_Board.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
References
- 1
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Antonio Lopez
Red Coat Series, Paloma Picasso, 1970s
![Antonio lopez red coat series paloma picasso 1970s](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6yh6kmrMJiWIkK6OCs2kig/eeb16afde4bcd6a56d5b6b22e078ce95/Antonio_Lopez__Red_Coat_Series__Paloma_Picasso__1970s.jpg)
Giorgio di Sant' Angelo
Klimt Dress, Fall 1969
![Klimt dress giorgio di sant angelo fall 1969 fidm](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/33wkGp6v1C0eM8ok82iA8m/4af479cf61e25125c82341dcabfa8af7/Klimt_dress_Giorgio_di_Sant__Angelo_Fall_1969_FIDM.jpg)
Robert Mallet-Stevens
Chair, 1930
![Robert mallet stevens chair 1930](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3ZcOdQJGzYIiWk4Eo24a4y/d0da08fe13a5b22ee57297aef54293bf/Robert_Mallet-Stevens__Chair__1930.jpg)
Karl Friedrich Schinkel
Neuer Pavillion, 1824-25, Berlin, Germany
![0d6c5bc8713c4653f7bc269c456b763a ancient architecture classic architecture](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6fNIxOgIxicyO86GEEqiWO/ad6a466458f29b870cb1211a7d246c92/0d6c5bc8713c4653f7bc269c456b763a--ancient-architecture-classic-architecture.jpg)
Balenciaga Day Dress
Spring/Summer 1958
![Cristo bal balenciaga for balenciagaspring summer 1958 day dress kyoto costume institute](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/4o2jEjamuA6kWaiKyM0WG/044a72d33df75a42d31b516286410daa/Cristo__bal_Balenciaga_for_BalenciagaSpring_Summer_1958__Day_Dress__Kyoto_Costume_Institute.png)
Mike Kelley
Memory Ware Flat #13, 2001
![Mike kelley. memory ware flat 13 2001](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3HjVi3tSIgQ8UGOgo8owQ2/9fdd843e38448f67a7497ad9e4f0dda8/Mike_Kelley._Memory_Ware_Flat__13__2001.jpg)
Ettore Sottsass & Perry A. King for Olivetti
Valentine Typewriter,1969
![Sotts valentine](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6bltWcmSbuyU2qqKoiK8MQ/1f87407e563197cdca48d0a9941ec679/sotts-valentine.jpg)
David Gammon
Custom Turntable, 1964
![David gammon custom turntable 1964](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3PSacf9GveYm0I646kOSA0/ad53aca23da54045d7fc3da69932e833/David_Gammon_Custom_Turntable__1964.jpg)
Charles James by Horst P. Horst
Harper's Bazaar, October 1938
![Charles james harper s bazaar october 1938 photo by horst p. horst](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/ftdP95sxcAwckmsO2OeeA/b5d5c7e56bce33eb1d7991b162d56e10/Charles_James__Harper_s_Bazaar__October_1938__Photo_by_Horst_P._Horst.jpg)
Haim Steinback
Ultra Red #2, 1986
![Haim steinback ultra red 2 1986](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/7AFKYjTzlCckqEkkAEUiW2/73a1c10f2644c6864da82ece265b50cb/Haim_Steinback__Ultra_Red__2__1986.jpg)
Le Corbusier and Pierre Jeanneret
Villa Savoye, 1928-1931
![Le corbusier villa savoye 1928 1931](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5sKswIeOnCIWGkCssSYkkA/3a55e9c03d465250dfcf76c5d9321dd5/Le_Corbusier__Villa_Savoye__1928-1931.jpg)
Hector Guimard
Boudoir Chandelier, 1913
![French art nouveau boudoir chandelier by hector guimard 1913](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/4z1tM3B01q2McaoyGewAai/771959fc9206ebd393f38338f435cfd7/French_Art_Nouveau_Boudoir_Chandelier_by_Hector_Guimard__1913.jpg)
Balenciaga
Harringbone Suit, 1950s
![59d2c456ad369ab8fe51343826c45285](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/fdu4hDOqpay6OicGgOsQC/e6234e704fd828e1efea5442e69a4ab3/59d2c456ad369ab8fe51343826c45285.jpg)
John Baldessari
Quality material..., 1967 - 1968
![John baldessari quality material... 1967 1968.](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/2lDrwex1EMSOa6O2uOKUUG/d4e152e7eb43ad28ff8b4549c3e54a6e/John_Baldessari__Quality_material...__1967_-_1968..jpg)
Martin Kippenberger
Worktimer, 1987
![Martin kippenberger worktimer 1987](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/1Z0gGUVAzeweIiMEIWWqIa/7ee88980421bead0ce8a0b253d0570f6/Martin_Kippenberger__Worktimer__1987.jpg)
Philippe Parreno
Candles (Interior Cartoons), 2007
![Parreno candles interior cartoons](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/39SGD5N1JuCgSeGESU4IsK/b28bf9e7b7ddd4c34b6971e482a6e120/parreno_candles-interior-cartoons.jpg)
Roberto Gabetti & Aimaro Isola
Tacolo da Taeletta Vanity, 1970
![Roberto gabetti aimaro isola tacolo da taeletta vanity 1970](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/wHbCcLeNMsm284C6UeKeQ/eaf500e327d5796ad014141817d0898c/Roberto_Gabetti___Aimaro_Isola__Tacolo_da_Taeletta_Vanity__1970.jpg)
Sarah Charlesworth
Bird Woman, 1986
![Sarah charlesworth bird woman 1986](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3mv4vk8eNOecsyEcgiI4mg/9d5cf3a8575f43ca8c67fe66551db2c4/Sarah_Charlesworth_____Bird_Woman_____1986_.jpg)
Stefan Zwicky
(Le Corbusier's iconic LC2 armchair)
![Stefan zwicky le corbusier s iconic lc2 armchair 1](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6nctpGxZewicuwi4MGKGco/0a0a59bd94faa20c05e959b74da5de36/Stefan_Zwicky__Le_Corbusier_s_iconic_LC2_armchair__1.jpg)
References
![Antonio lopez red coat series paloma picasso 1970s](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6yh6kmrMJiWIkK6OCs2kig/eeb16afde4bcd6a56d5b6b22e078ce95/Antonio_Lopez__Red_Coat_Series__Paloma_Picasso__1970s.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Antonio Lopez
Red Coat Series, Paloma Picasso, 1970s
1 of 20
![Klimt dress giorgio di sant angelo fall 1969 fidm](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/33wkGp6v1C0eM8ok82iA8m/4af479cf61e25125c82341dcabfa8af7/Klimt_dress_Giorgio_di_Sant__Angelo_Fall_1969_FIDM.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Giorgio di Sant' Angelo
Klimt Dress, Fall 1969
2 of 20
![Robert mallet stevens chair 1930](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3ZcOdQJGzYIiWk4Eo24a4y/d0da08fe13a5b22ee57297aef54293bf/Robert_Mallet-Stevens__Chair__1930.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Robert Mallet-Stevens
Chair, 1930
3 of 20
![0d6c5bc8713c4653f7bc269c456b763a ancient architecture classic architecture](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6fNIxOgIxicyO86GEEqiWO/ad6a466458f29b870cb1211a7d246c92/0d6c5bc8713c4653f7bc269c456b763a--ancient-architecture-classic-architecture.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Karl Friedrich Schinkel
Neuer Pavillion, 1824-25, Berlin, Germany
4 of 20
![Cristo bal balenciaga for balenciagaspring summer 1958 day dress kyoto costume institute](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/4o2jEjamuA6kWaiKyM0WG/044a72d33df75a42d31b516286410daa/Cristo__bal_Balenciaga_for_BalenciagaSpring_Summer_1958__Day_Dress__Kyoto_Costume_Institute.png?w=1000&q=70)
Balenciaga Day Dress
Spring/Summer 1958
5 of 20
![Mike kelley. memory ware flat 13 2001](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3HjVi3tSIgQ8UGOgo8owQ2/9fdd843e38448f67a7497ad9e4f0dda8/Mike_Kelley._Memory_Ware_Flat__13__2001.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Mike Kelley
Memory Ware Flat #13, 2001
6 of 20
![Sotts valentine](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6bltWcmSbuyU2qqKoiK8MQ/1f87407e563197cdca48d0a9941ec679/sotts-valentine.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Ettore Sottsass & Perry A. King for Olivetti
Valentine Typewriter,1969
7 of 20
![David gammon custom turntable 1964](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3PSacf9GveYm0I646kOSA0/ad53aca23da54045d7fc3da69932e833/David_Gammon_Custom_Turntable__1964.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
David Gammon
Custom Turntable, 1964
8 of 20
![Charles james harper s bazaar october 1938 photo by horst p. horst](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/ftdP95sxcAwckmsO2OeeA/b5d5c7e56bce33eb1d7991b162d56e10/Charles_James__Harper_s_Bazaar__October_1938__Photo_by_Horst_P._Horst.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Charles James by Horst P. Horst
Harper's Bazaar, October 1938
9 of 20
![Haim steinback ultra red 2 1986](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/7AFKYjTzlCckqEkkAEUiW2/73a1c10f2644c6864da82ece265b50cb/Haim_Steinback__Ultra_Red__2__1986.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Haim Steinback
Ultra Red #2, 1986
10 of 20
![Le corbusier villa savoye 1928 1931](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5sKswIeOnCIWGkCssSYkkA/3a55e9c03d465250dfcf76c5d9321dd5/Le_Corbusier__Villa_Savoye__1928-1931.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Le Corbusier and Pierre Jeanneret
Villa Savoye, 1928-1931
11 of 20
![French art nouveau boudoir chandelier by hector guimard 1913](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/4z1tM3B01q2McaoyGewAai/771959fc9206ebd393f38338f435cfd7/French_Art_Nouveau_Boudoir_Chandelier_by_Hector_Guimard__1913.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Hector Guimard
Boudoir Chandelier, 1913
12 of 20
![59d2c456ad369ab8fe51343826c45285](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/fdu4hDOqpay6OicGgOsQC/e6234e704fd828e1efea5442e69a4ab3/59d2c456ad369ab8fe51343826c45285.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Balenciaga
Harringbone Suit, 1950s
14 of 20
![John baldessari quality material... 1967 1968.](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/2lDrwex1EMSOa6O2uOKUUG/d4e152e7eb43ad28ff8b4549c3e54a6e/John_Baldessari__Quality_material...__1967_-_1968..jpg?w=1000&q=70)
John Baldessari
Quality material..., 1967 - 1968
15 of 20
![Martin kippenberger worktimer 1987](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/1Z0gGUVAzeweIiMEIWWqIa/7ee88980421bead0ce8a0b253d0570f6/Martin_Kippenberger__Worktimer__1987.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Martin Kippenberger
Worktimer, 1987
16 of 20
![Parreno candles interior cartoons](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/39SGD5N1JuCgSeGESU4IsK/b28bf9e7b7ddd4c34b6971e482a6e120/parreno_candles-interior-cartoons.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Philippe Parreno
Candles (Interior Cartoons), 2007
17 of 20
![Roberto gabetti aimaro isola tacolo da taeletta vanity 1970](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/wHbCcLeNMsm284C6UeKeQ/eaf500e327d5796ad014141817d0898c/Roberto_Gabetti___Aimaro_Isola__Tacolo_da_Taeletta_Vanity__1970.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Roberto Gabetti & Aimaro Isola
Tacolo da Taeletta Vanity, 1970
18 of 20
![Sarah charlesworth bird woman 1986](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3mv4vk8eNOecsyEcgiI4mg/9d5cf3a8575f43ca8c67fe66551db2c4/Sarah_Charlesworth_____Bird_Woman_____1986_.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Sarah Charlesworth
Bird Woman, 1986
19 of 20
![Stefan zwicky le corbusier s iconic lc2 armchair 1](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6nctpGxZewicuwi4MGKGco/0a0a59bd94faa20c05e959b74da5de36/Stefan_Zwicky__Le_Corbusier_s_iconic_LC2_armchair__1.jpg?w=1000&q=70)