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Balenciaga S/S 2012

Art / Architecture / Design / Fashion

Nicolas Ghesquiere’s Spring/Summer 2012 collection for Balenciaga, showcased the designer’s idiosyncratic re-interpretation of house founder Cristobal’s archives, as well as his own ingenious design language.


Posted April 21st, 2019 By Colby Mugrabi

The collection reflected principally on Ghesquiere’s penchant for techno-couture and abstract minimalism, revealed in the designer’s laboratory-esque approach to fabrication and technique exploration. Graphic prints and bold panels adorned shirts and dresses, as color-blocked neoprene-looking silk jackets, plexiglass-effect cuff bracelets, and geometric, cross-strapped booties made for a fully realized vision.

The intellectualism often associated with Ghesquiere’s designs seemed all the more fitting this season, given the collection’s kaleidoscopic quality and referential undertones. Elevated everyday wear, rendered in asymmetrically cut white t-shirts and perfectly tailored pleated jeans, offered an original hypothesis on the identity of a woman in the contemporary world. The boyish attitude of the show’s opening looks, including high-waisted shorts and exaggerated shoulders, grew all the more powerful as the hems became longer and exceedingly less revealing. The passage of structured, triangular shaped dresses in metallic hues sporting boldly positioned pockets touched on utilitarianism before turning to the feminine, represented in the show’s deep v-neck finale dresses covered in feathery metallic finishes.

Above all, spring/summer 2012 celebrated Ghesquiere’s uncanny ability to bring together the organic and synthetic in an utterly modern context, all while reflecting on his intimate relationship with Cristobal’s archive. The voluminous quality and futurist cuts of the collection’s standout garments referenced Cristobal’s trademark construction techniques, as vividly as Ghesquiere’s impressive reworking of Cristobal’s fishermen-inspired, 1967 wedding veil. Much like Cristobal, Nicolas Ghesquiere exemplifies modernity through his ability to capture the beauty of the present time by being a constant spectator, with a childlike ability to see everything in a state of newness and find beauty in transient quotidian moments.

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References
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Cristóbal Balenciaga

1967

1967 balenciaga

Andy Warhol

The Nun, Ingrid Bergman, 1983

Andy warhol  the nun  from  ingrid bergman  1983

J. J. P. Oud

A dining group of six chairs, and a table, 1927

Dsc 3539

James Rosenquist

Spectator - Speed of Light, 2001

465f2f9bc6bdcc1a8aa1cc83a7d3bd15  james rosenquist pop art

James Lee Byars

The World Flag, 1991

 the world flag   1991  by james lee byars

Roy Lichtenstein

Landscape With Red Sky, 1985

Roy lichtenstein  landscape with red sky  1985

Paco Rabanne

Couture Hat 1983

Paco rabanne couture hat 1983

André Sornay

Chair, 1935

Andre sornay  six chairs  ca. 1935

Cristobal Balenciaga

Wedding Dress and Hat, 1967

Cristobal balenciaga  wedding dress and hat  1967

Ettore Sottsass

Laminate Mattern

Ettore sottsass laminate mattern

Ettore Sottsass

Tartar Table, 1985

Ettore sottsass tartar table  1985

Ettore Sottsass

Pattern for plastic laminate, 1979-81

Ettore sottsass  pattern for plastic laminate  1979 81.

Joe Bradley

Running Animal (In 4 parts), 2006

Joe bradley  running animal  in 4 parts   2006

Paco Rabanne

Vogue Italia, Photographer Bert Stern, Model Samantha Jones, April 1967

Vogue italia  april 1967 photographer bert stern  model samantha jones  paco rabanne  spring 1967

Albert Frey

Frey House, 1941-43

Tumblr mstsoltzdi1rpgpe2o2 r2 640

James Rosenquist

The Serenade for the Doll after Claude Debussy, Gift Wrapped Doll #16, 1992

James rosenquist the serenade for the doll after claude debussy  gift wrapped doll  16  1992
References
1967 balenciaga

Cristóbal Balenciaga

1967

1 of 16

Andy warhol  the nun  from  ingrid bergman  1983

Andy Warhol

The Nun, Ingrid Bergman, 1983

2 of 16

Dsc 3539

J. J. P. Oud

A dining group of six chairs, and a table, 1927

3 of 16

465f2f9bc6bdcc1a8aa1cc83a7d3bd15  james rosenquist pop art

James Rosenquist

Spectator - Speed of Light, 2001

4 of 16

 the world flag   1991  by james lee byars

James Lee Byars

The World Flag, 1991

5 of 16

Roy lichtenstein  landscape with red sky  1985

Roy Lichtenstein

Landscape With Red Sky, 1985

6 of 16

Paco rabanne couture hat 1983

Paco Rabanne

Couture Hat 1983

7 of 16

Andre sornay  six chairs  ca. 1935

André Sornay

Chair, 1935

8 of 16

Cristobal balenciaga  wedding dress and hat  1967

Cristobal Balenciaga

Wedding Dress and Hat, 1967

9 of 16

Ettore sottsass laminate mattern

Ettore Sottsass

Laminate Mattern

10 of 16

Ettore sottsass tartar table  1985

Ettore Sottsass

Tartar Table, 1985

11 of 16

Ettore sottsass  pattern for plastic laminate  1979 81.

Ettore Sottsass

Pattern for plastic laminate, 1979-81

12 of 16

Joe bradley  running animal  in 4 parts   2006

Joe Bradley

Running Animal (In 4 parts), 2006

13 of 16

Vogue italia  april 1967 photographer bert stern  model samantha jones  paco rabanne  spring 1967

Paco Rabanne

Vogue Italia, Photographer Bert Stern, Model Samantha Jones, April 1967

14 of 16

Tumblr mstsoltzdi1rpgpe2o2 r2 640

Albert Frey

Frey House, 1941-43

15 of 16

James rosenquist the serenade for the doll after claude debussy  gift wrapped doll  16  1992

James Rosenquist

The Serenade for the Doll after Claude Debussy, Gift Wrapped Doll #16, 1992

16 of 16


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