Nicolas Ghesquiere’s Spring/Summer 2012 collection for Balenciaga, showcased the designer’s idiosyncratic re-interpretation of house founder Cristobal’s archives, as well as his own ingenious design language.
The collection reflected principally on Ghesquiere’s penchant for techno-couture and abstract minimalism, revealed in the designer’s laboratory-esque approach to fabrication and technique exploration. Graphic prints and bold panels adorned shirts and dresses, as color-blocked neoprene-looking silk jackets, plexiglass-effect cuff bracelets, and geometric, cross-strapped booties made for a fully realized vision.
The intellectualism often associated with Ghesquiere’s designs seemed all the more fitting this season, given the collection’s kaleidoscopic quality and referential undertones. Elevated everyday wear, rendered in asymmetrically cut white t-shirts and perfectly tailored pleated jeans, offered an original hypothesis on the identity of a woman in the contemporary world. The boyish attitude of the show’s opening looks, including high-waisted shorts and exaggerated shoulders, grew all the more powerful as the hems became longer and exceedingly less revealing. The passage of structured, triangular shaped dresses in metallic hues sporting boldly positioned pockets touched on utilitarianism before turning to the feminine, represented in the show’s deep v-neck finale dresses covered in feathery metallic finishes.
Above all, spring/summer 2012 celebrated Ghesquiere’s uncanny ability to bring together the organic and synthetic in an utterly modern context, all while reflecting on his intimate relationship with Cristobal’s archive. The voluminous quality and futurist cuts of the collection’s standout garments referenced Cristobal’s trademark construction techniques, as vividly as Ghesquiere’s impressive reworking of Cristobal’s fishermen-inspired, 1967 wedding veil. Much like Cristobal, Nicolas Ghesquiere exemplifies modernity through his ability to capture the beauty of the present time by being a constant spectator, with a childlike ability to see everything in a state of newness and find beauty in transient quotidian moments.
![Balenciaga ss 2012 muse board](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6Qnks4Qdf4VUnG3Q6BiCP4/593852f10cd300fa21cbd1f962700a03/Balenciaga_SS_2012_Muse_Board.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
References
- 1
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Cristóbal Balenciaga
1967
![1967 balenciaga](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/617ldoCIa7opvcA3HnaTPP/99df200de01f709f0181fe450c1d5483/1967_Balenciaga_.jpg)
Andy Warhol
The Nun, Ingrid Bergman, 1983
![Andy warhol the nun from ingrid bergman 1983](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/4H85jPmTuSBU3O6rYF1lJz/e6caa99f68c7abf97d09448ed31fca25/Andy_Warhol__The_Nun__from-_Ingrid_Bergman__1983.jpg)
J. J. P. Oud
A dining group of six chairs, and a table, 1927
![Dsc 3539](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/dFVBefkU5KI8fLo6cH4II/d03a7d2f4c7fd35f30bd90e5595a53b4/DSC_3539.jpg)
James Rosenquist
Spectator - Speed of Light, 2001
![465f2f9bc6bdcc1a8aa1cc83a7d3bd15 james rosenquist pop art](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/2nO52NdDlIGMxymqp15013/011744203a8b852f3303211e49f7a9b2/465f2f9bc6bdcc1a8aa1cc83a7d3bd15--james-rosenquist-pop-art.jpg)
James Lee Byars
The World Flag, 1991
![the world flag 1991 by james lee byars](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/1Ngwr64F0OPVoXCjsM8uqV/a7490eb3f4ed85c155bcc67ef9082a72/_The_World_Flag___1991__by_James_Lee_Byars.jpg)
Roy Lichtenstein
Landscape With Red Sky, 1985
![Roy lichtenstein landscape with red sky 1985](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6Qnqm4Tkz6bHSIDhDquMRi/d57115b1eeb5ccdc0d4ec1210e9d1080/Roy_Lichtenstein__LANDSCAPE_WITH_RED_SKY__1985.jpg)
Paco Rabanne
Couture Hat 1983
![Paco rabanne couture hat 1983](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3upjbLkShBS4wCHEVbC7Wf/18ce4b36ef399184769475f8ce385f07/Paco_Rabanne_Couture_Hat_1983.jpg)
André Sornay
Chair, 1935
![Andre sornay six chairs ca. 1935](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/66wPC0b06QuQx9vp8CqvVK/25d3cf36e98f535acedd4d3cb4a5d610/Andre_Sornay__Six_chairs__ca._1935.jpg)
Cristobal Balenciaga
Wedding Dress and Hat, 1967
![Cristobal balenciaga wedding dress and hat 1967](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/4Y4pC8bGTT3mlK6Tw4jaOD/091dec3ea7c2eafbc20ebb06343300c3/Cristobal_Balenciaga__Wedding_Dress_and_Hat__1967.jpg)
Ettore Sottsass
Laminate Mattern
![Ettore sottsass laminate mattern](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/4jIn4leyg4FohxqRAN6iOm/bdb37b261e5d710d82e138add3c45391/Ettore_Sottsass_Laminate_Mattern.jpg)
Ettore Sottsass
Tartar Table, 1985
![Ettore sottsass tartar table 1985](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6f2kMCgJUIGxvpPMR5feXE/9d713ad378079012ef7680d04da08a74/Ettore_Sottsass_Tartar_Table__1985.jpg)
Ettore Sottsass
Pattern for plastic laminate, 1979-81
![Ettore sottsass pattern for plastic laminate 1979 81.](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/1wFlzJZDLUYuwecgGo5u2o/0c7b640c94836aee21396cf8face1cf9/Ettore_Sottsass__pattern_for_plastic_laminate__1979-81..jpg)
Joe Bradley
Running Animal (In 4 parts), 2006
Paco Rabanne
Vogue Italia, Photographer Bert Stern, Model Samantha Jones, April 1967
![Vogue italia april 1967 photographer bert stern model samantha jones paco rabanne spring 1967](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/Q0saqcxsGLxlNurgG5WkV/c47ebfbbad70d9c52cf23ea1262c1117/Vogue_Italia__April_1967_Photographer_Bert_Stern__Model_Samantha_Jones__Paco_Rabanne__Spring_1967.jpg)
Albert Frey
Frey House, 1941-43
![Tumblr mstsoltzdi1rpgpe2o2 r2 640](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/4xdQiYj3Ev9JOyXMZMRG6b/6fbd7e40a8c595313af36add2bd9b815/tumblr_mstsoltZdI1rpgpe2o2_r2_640.jpg)
James Rosenquist
The Serenade for the Doll after Claude Debussy, Gift Wrapped Doll #16, 1992
![James rosenquist the serenade for the doll after claude debussy gift wrapped doll 16 1992](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/FnfZdttg5mx5LiN3sMCjF/6285b8b9a344b7cd1c6aee92f70a2d35/James_Rosenquist_The_Serenade_for_the_Doll_after_Claude_Debussy__Gift_Wrapped_Doll__16__1992.jpg)
References
![1967 balenciaga](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/617ldoCIa7opvcA3HnaTPP/99df200de01f709f0181fe450c1d5483/1967_Balenciaga_.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Cristóbal Balenciaga
1967
1 of 16
![Andy warhol the nun from ingrid bergman 1983](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/4H85jPmTuSBU3O6rYF1lJz/e6caa99f68c7abf97d09448ed31fca25/Andy_Warhol__The_Nun__from-_Ingrid_Bergman__1983.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Andy Warhol
The Nun, Ingrid Bergman, 1983
2 of 16
![Dsc 3539](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/dFVBefkU5KI8fLo6cH4II/d03a7d2f4c7fd35f30bd90e5595a53b4/DSC_3539.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
J. J. P. Oud
A dining group of six chairs, and a table, 1927
3 of 16
![465f2f9bc6bdcc1a8aa1cc83a7d3bd15 james rosenquist pop art](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/2nO52NdDlIGMxymqp15013/011744203a8b852f3303211e49f7a9b2/465f2f9bc6bdcc1a8aa1cc83a7d3bd15--james-rosenquist-pop-art.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
James Rosenquist
Spectator - Speed of Light, 2001
4 of 16
![the world flag 1991 by james lee byars](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/1Ngwr64F0OPVoXCjsM8uqV/a7490eb3f4ed85c155bcc67ef9082a72/_The_World_Flag___1991__by_James_Lee_Byars.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
James Lee Byars
The World Flag, 1991
5 of 16
![Roy lichtenstein landscape with red sky 1985](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6Qnqm4Tkz6bHSIDhDquMRi/d57115b1eeb5ccdc0d4ec1210e9d1080/Roy_Lichtenstein__LANDSCAPE_WITH_RED_SKY__1985.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Roy Lichtenstein
Landscape With Red Sky, 1985
6 of 16
![Paco rabanne couture hat 1983](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3upjbLkShBS4wCHEVbC7Wf/18ce4b36ef399184769475f8ce385f07/Paco_Rabanne_Couture_Hat_1983.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Paco Rabanne
Couture Hat 1983
7 of 16
![Andre sornay six chairs ca. 1935](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/66wPC0b06QuQx9vp8CqvVK/25d3cf36e98f535acedd4d3cb4a5d610/Andre_Sornay__Six_chairs__ca._1935.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
André Sornay
Chair, 1935
8 of 16
![Cristobal balenciaga wedding dress and hat 1967](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/4Y4pC8bGTT3mlK6Tw4jaOD/091dec3ea7c2eafbc20ebb06343300c3/Cristobal_Balenciaga__Wedding_Dress_and_Hat__1967.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Cristobal Balenciaga
Wedding Dress and Hat, 1967
9 of 16
![Ettore sottsass laminate mattern](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/4jIn4leyg4FohxqRAN6iOm/bdb37b261e5d710d82e138add3c45391/Ettore_Sottsass_Laminate_Mattern.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Ettore Sottsass
Laminate Mattern
10 of 16
![Ettore sottsass tartar table 1985](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6f2kMCgJUIGxvpPMR5feXE/9d713ad378079012ef7680d04da08a74/Ettore_Sottsass_Tartar_Table__1985.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Ettore Sottsass
Tartar Table, 1985
11 of 16
![Ettore sottsass pattern for plastic laminate 1979 81.](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/1wFlzJZDLUYuwecgGo5u2o/0c7b640c94836aee21396cf8face1cf9/Ettore_Sottsass__pattern_for_plastic_laminate__1979-81..jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Ettore Sottsass
Pattern for plastic laminate, 1979-81
12 of 16
Joe Bradley
Running Animal (In 4 parts), 2006
13 of 16
![Vogue italia april 1967 photographer bert stern model samantha jones paco rabanne spring 1967](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/Q0saqcxsGLxlNurgG5WkV/c47ebfbbad70d9c52cf23ea1262c1117/Vogue_Italia__April_1967_Photographer_Bert_Stern__Model_Samantha_Jones__Paco_Rabanne__Spring_1967.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Paco Rabanne
Vogue Italia, Photographer Bert Stern, Model Samantha Jones, April 1967
14 of 16
![Tumblr mstsoltzdi1rpgpe2o2 r2 640](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/4xdQiYj3Ev9JOyXMZMRG6b/6fbd7e40a8c595313af36add2bd9b815/tumblr_mstsoltZdI1rpgpe2o2_r2_640.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Albert Frey
Frey House, 1941-43
15 of 16
![James rosenquist the serenade for the doll after claude debussy gift wrapped doll 16 1992](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/FnfZdttg5mx5LiN3sMCjF/6285b8b9a344b7cd1c6aee92f70a2d35/James_Rosenquist_The_Serenade_for_the_Doll_after_Claude_Debussy__Gift_Wrapped_Doll__16__1992.jpg?w=1000&q=70)