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Bottega Veneta F/W 2019

Art / Architecture / Design / Fashion

Debuting his first runway collection as creative director of Bottega Veneta, Daniel Lee presented a modern interpretation of the brand’s storied heritage. Lee has single handedly made Bottega the darling of the cool-girl fashion scene through his thoughtful repurposing of the Italian brand’s iconic woven leather.


Posted March 9th, 2020 By Colby Mugrabi

The show, which took place in a clear, airy tent, included a cornicopia of leather treatements on garmetns and accessories. From laser-cut leather outerwear and mototcycle-style pants, to leather bonded with neoprene which gave the illuson of Bottega’s signature weave. This homage to the brand’s weave motif was also realized on non-leather goods, including cashmere sweaters and elastic blazers, adding textural depth to these garments.

In fact, texture seemed to be the most prominent storyline throughout the collection, as there was a strong interplay amongst materiality and finish. In particular, pillow bags, shoes, skirts and jackets, not only acknowledged the beloved trompe l’oeil technique, but also introduced this design to be a visual signifier of the Bottega Veneta brand. Dual-function garments and accessories are also in: double your Bottega bag as a sleep accessory. While we also saw the application of texture onto classic silhouettes. There was a coat with textured sleeves, men’s loafers with the pillow-y, trompe l’oeil finish, and the best disco ball dresses you have ever seen. Biker chic also dominated the show, as seen in the collection’s brown leather and neoprene ensembles, chunky calf-high boots and chain accents. Color was also strongly noted, as the neutral palette prevailed, but was challenged by the bright, airy colors mixed in. Sea-foam green, pumpkin, leopard and eggplant all made intentional appearances and took form on various oversized sweaters, exaggerated overcoats and collars. There was also an emphasis on the display of the decollage, further advocating for the unexpected openings and structuring that was seen throughout the show.

The collection’s key pieces were primarily outerwear. Laser cut squares woven together to form fully fledged coats are pieces destined to become iconic. The manifestation of the woven motif onto these coats was further marked by the subtle ruching at the waist, made possible through drawstring detailing. A muted, shimmering purple windbreaker dress with fairy godmother sleeves graced the runway and is entirely unforgettable. In addition, the doubling of button-down dresses over shift dresses created a layered moment, with a twist. The show itself can be marked as “classic with a twist,” as we see this strive towards attracting a younger audience into the Bottega community. The shows music, a marriage of thrill and anticipation, tied in with the emotions felt by the audience in relation to the future of the Bottega: a revival.

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References
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Philip Johnson

Four Seasons Restaurant, New York City, 1954

Four seasons restaurant  location  new york ny  architect  philip johnson 1954.    ezra stoller

Eileen Gray

Screen, 1922

Eileen gray. screen. 1922

Helmut Lang

Spring/Summer 2004

Helmut lang ss 2004

Maison Martin Margiela

Woven Elastic Jacket, Spring/Summer 2008

Maison martin margiela woven elastic jacket spring summer 2008

Harvey Probber

Modular Sofa, 1940s

Harvey probber modular sofa harvey probber deep tuft sofa 1940s

Gucci

Skirt Suit, 1970s

Gucci skirt suit  1970s

Robert Mallet Stevens

Rue Mallet-Stevens, 1926

Robert mallet stevens  french  1886 1945    villa des fre  res martel   designed for brothers jan and joel martel  both scul

Carol Jacque

Beach Chair with Wings, 1992

Carol jacque  beach chair with wings  1992  walkers  ace bandages

Charles James

Taxi Dress, 1932

Charles james     taxi    dress  ca. 1932

Dan Colen

Oy Vey 3, 2010

Dan colen  oy vey 3  2010

David Smith

Cubi XIX, 1964

David smith  cubi xix  1964

David Smith

David Smith, Untitled (Voltri), 1962

David smith  untitled  voltri   for gian carlo   1962

Paco Rabanne

Françoise Hardy, 1968

Franc  oise hardy at savoy with a dress by paco rabanne in 1968

Jean Arp

Torso, 1957

Jean arp  torso  1957   1957

John Chamberlain

Flawed Logic, 1979

John chamberlain  flawed logic  1979

David Montgomery

Model in Paco Rabanne, 1966

Paco rabanne 1966 david montgomery

Richard Artschwager

Exclamation Point, 2006

Richard artschwager  exclamation point  2006

Richard Prince

Untitled (girlfriend), 1993

Richard prince  untitled  girlfriend  1993

Villa Cavrois

Interior, 1932

Villa cavrois 020 500x333
References
Four seasons restaurant  location  new york ny  architect  philip johnson 1954.    ezra stoller

Philip Johnson

Four Seasons Restaurant, New York City, 1954

1 of 19

Eileen gray. screen. 1922

Eileen Gray

Screen, 1922

2 of 19

Helmut lang ss 2004

Helmut Lang

Spring/Summer 2004

3 of 19

Maison martin margiela woven elastic jacket spring summer 2008

Maison Martin Margiela

Woven Elastic Jacket, Spring/Summer 2008

4 of 19

Harvey probber modular sofa harvey probber deep tuft sofa 1940s

Harvey Probber

Modular Sofa, 1940s

5 of 19

Gucci skirt suit  1970s

Gucci

Skirt Suit, 1970s

6 of 19

Robert mallet stevens  french  1886 1945    villa des fre  res martel   designed for brothers jan and joel martel  both scul

Robert Mallet Stevens

Rue Mallet-Stevens, 1926

7 of 19

Carol jacque  beach chair with wings  1992  walkers  ace bandages

Carol Jacque

Beach Chair with Wings, 1992

8 of 19

Charles james     taxi    dress  ca. 1932

Charles James

Taxi Dress, 1932

9 of 19

Dan colen  oy vey 3  2010

Dan Colen

Oy Vey 3, 2010

10 of 19

David smith  cubi xix  1964

David Smith

Cubi XIX, 1964

11 of 19

David smith  untitled  voltri   for gian carlo   1962

David Smith

David Smith, Untitled (Voltri), 1962

12 of 19

Franc  oise hardy at savoy with a dress by paco rabanne in 1968

Paco Rabanne

Françoise Hardy, 1968

13 of 19

Jean arp  torso  1957   1957

Jean Arp

Torso, 1957

14 of 19

John chamberlain  flawed logic  1979

John Chamberlain

Flawed Logic, 1979

15 of 19

Paco rabanne 1966 david montgomery

David Montgomery

Model in Paco Rabanne, 1966

16 of 19

Richard artschwager  exclamation point  2006

Richard Artschwager

Exclamation Point, 2006

17 of 19

Richard prince  untitled  girlfriend  1993

Richard Prince

Untitled (girlfriend), 1993

18 of 19

Villa cavrois 020 500x333

Villa Cavrois

Interior, 1932

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