Debuting his first runway collection as creative director of Bottega Veneta, Daniel Lee presented a modern interpretation of the brand’s storied heritage. Lee has single handedly made Bottega the darling of the cool-girl fashion scene through his thoughtful repurposing of the Italian brand’s iconic woven leather.
The show, which took place in a clear, airy tent, included a cornicopia of leather treatements on garmetns and accessories. From laser-cut leather outerwear and mototcycle-style pants, to leather bonded with neoprene which gave the illuson of Bottega’s signature weave. This homage to the brand’s weave motif was also realized on non-leather goods, including cashmere sweaters and elastic blazers, adding textural depth to these garments.
In fact, texture seemed to be the most prominent storyline throughout the collection, as there was a strong interplay amongst materiality and finish. In particular, pillow bags, shoes, skirts and jackets, not only acknowledged the beloved trompe l’oeil technique, but also introduced this design to be a visual signifier of the Bottega Veneta brand. Dual-function garments and accessories are also in: double your Bottega bag as a sleep accessory. While we also saw the application of texture onto classic silhouettes. There was a coat with textured sleeves, men’s loafers with the pillow-y, trompe l’oeil finish, and the best disco ball dresses you have ever seen. Biker chic also dominated the show, as seen in the collection’s brown leather and neoprene ensembles, chunky calf-high boots and chain accents. Color was also strongly noted, as the neutral palette prevailed, but was challenged by the bright, airy colors mixed in. Sea-foam green, pumpkin, leopard and eggplant all made intentional appearances and took form on various oversized sweaters, exaggerated overcoats and collars. There was also an emphasis on the display of the decollage, further advocating for the unexpected openings and structuring that was seen throughout the show.
The collection’s key pieces were primarily outerwear. Laser cut squares woven together to form fully fledged coats are pieces destined to become iconic. The manifestation of the woven motif onto these coats was further marked by the subtle ruching at the waist, made possible through drawstring detailing. A muted, shimmering purple windbreaker dress with fairy godmother sleeves graced the runway and is entirely unforgettable. In addition, the doubling of button-down dresses over shift dresses created a layered moment, with a twist. The show itself can be marked as “classic with a twist,” as we see this strive towards attracting a younger audience into the Bottega community. The shows music, a marriage of thrill and anticipation, tied in with the emotions felt by the audience in relation to the future of the Bottega: a revival.