Debuting his first runway collection as creative director of Bottega Veneta, Daniel Lee presented a modern interpretation of the brand’s storied heritage. Lee has single handedly made Bottega the darling of the cool-girl fashion scene through his thoughtful repurposing of the Italian brand’s iconic woven leather.
The show, which took place in a clear, airy tent, included a cornicopia of leather treatements on garmetns and accessories. From laser-cut leather outerwear and mototcycle-style pants, to leather bonded with neoprene which gave the illuson of Bottega’s signature weave. This homage to the brand’s weave motif was also realized on non-leather goods, including cashmere sweaters and elastic blazers, adding textural depth to these garments.
In fact, texture seemed to be the most prominent storyline throughout the collection, as there was a strong interplay amongst materiality and finish. In particular, pillow bags, shoes, skirts and jackets, not only acknowledged the beloved trompe l’oeil technique, but also introduced this design to be a visual signifier of the Bottega Veneta brand. Dual-function garments and accessories are also in: double your Bottega bag as a sleep accessory. While we also saw the application of texture onto classic silhouettes. There was a coat with textured sleeves, men’s loafers with the pillow-y, trompe l’oeil finish, and the best disco ball dresses you have ever seen. Biker chic also dominated the show, as seen in the collection’s brown leather and neoprene ensembles, chunky calf-high boots and chain accents. Color was also strongly noted, as the neutral palette prevailed, but was challenged by the bright, airy colors mixed in. Sea-foam green, pumpkin, leopard and eggplant all made intentional appearances and took form on various oversized sweaters, exaggerated overcoats and collars. There was also an emphasis on the display of the decollage, further advocating for the unexpected openings and structuring that was seen throughout the show.
The collection’s key pieces were primarily outerwear. Laser cut squares woven together to form fully fledged coats are pieces destined to become iconic. The manifestation of the woven motif onto these coats was further marked by the subtle ruching at the waist, made possible through drawstring detailing. A muted, shimmering purple windbreaker dress with fairy godmother sleeves graced the runway and is entirely unforgettable. In addition, the doubling of button-down dresses over shift dresses created a layered moment, with a twist. The show itself can be marked as “classic with a twist,” as we see this strive towards attracting a younger audience into the Bottega community. The shows music, a marriage of thrill and anticipation, tied in with the emotions felt by the audience in relation to the future of the Bottega: a revival.

References
- 1
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Philip Johnson
Four Seasons Restaurant, New York City, 1954

Eileen Gray
Screen, 1922

Helmut Lang
Spring/Summer 2004

Maison Martin Margiela
Woven Elastic Jacket, Spring/Summer 2008

Harvey Probber
Modular Sofa, 1940s

Gucci
Skirt Suit, 1970s
Robert Mallet Stevens
Rue Mallet-Stevens, 1926

Carol Jacque
Beach Chair with Wings, 1992

Charles James
Taxi Dress, 1932

Dan Colen
Oy Vey 3, 2010

David Smith
Cubi XIX, 1964

David Smith
David Smith, Untitled (Voltri), 1962

Paco Rabanne
Françoise Hardy, 1968

Jean Arp
Torso, 1957

John Chamberlain
Flawed Logic, 1979

David Montgomery
Model in Paco Rabanne, 1966

Richard Artschwager
Exclamation Point, 2006

Richard Prince
Untitled (girlfriend), 1993

Villa Cavrois
Interior, 1932

References

Philip Johnson
Four Seasons Restaurant, New York City, 1954
1 of 19

Eileen Gray
Screen, 1922
2 of 19

Helmut Lang
Spring/Summer 2004
3 of 19

Maison Martin Margiela
Woven Elastic Jacket, Spring/Summer 2008
4 of 19

Harvey Probber
Modular Sofa, 1940s
5 of 19
Gucci
Skirt Suit, 1970s
6 of 19

Robert Mallet Stevens
Rue Mallet-Stevens, 1926
7 of 19

Carol Jacque
Beach Chair with Wings, 1992
8 of 19

Charles James
Taxi Dress, 1932
9 of 19

Dan Colen
Oy Vey 3, 2010
10 of 19

David Smith
Cubi XIX, 1964
11 of 19

David Smith
David Smith, Untitled (Voltri), 1962
12 of 19

Paco Rabanne
Françoise Hardy, 1968
13 of 19

Jean Arp
Torso, 1957
14 of 19

John Chamberlain
Flawed Logic, 1979
15 of 19

David Montgomery
Model in Paco Rabanne, 1966
16 of 19

Richard Artschwager
Exclamation Point, 2006
17 of 19

Richard Prince
Untitled (girlfriend), 1993
18 of 19
