Fashion tends to live out it’s own fantasy, providing an escape from the physical reality that surrounds us. While Raf Simons’ earliest shows for Calvin Klein focused on blatant horror, fall/winter 2018 centered on perhaps the even scarier notion of a dystopian future, as well as our society at it’s present.
For Simons’ third collection as creative director of the quintessential American fashion house, the designer offered a list of 50 words in his pre-show notes, words that included: Popcorn, Warhol, Looney, and Fantasy. These curated idioms set the tone for the garments that followed – a visual meditation on classic Americana signifiers and the concept of Freedom.
The collection opened with orange sanitation-like jumpsuits and jackets with reflective bands, transitioning into Western shirts, elevated patchwork ensembles and innocent prairie dresses, matured with sheer fabrics and ruffled bibs that barely covered the chest, looking like something straight out of Westworld. Mentioned also as inspiration was the 1995 film SAFE, in which Julienne Moore stars as a California housewife who suffers from mysterious illnesses. Elements of this disaster film were seen in the show’s use of silver foil-like material on long gloves, boxy jackets and head coverings, bringing to mind early space suits and 1970’s sci-fi films.
Taking place in the former American Stock Exchange in New York’s financial district, the show’s set design mimicked the same barn-esque environments featured in the brand’s stores and ad campaigns – Rustic scaffolding, popcorn-covered floors, Warhol prints, and Sterling Ruby sculptures filled the room; a backdrop as eclectic and electrifying as the collection that followed.

References
- 1
- 2
Veruschka
British Vogue, December 1966

André Sornay
Armoire à Portes Coulissantes, 1970

Andrew Wyeth
Garret Room, 1962

Ed Ruscha
NOT A BAD WORLD, IS IT?, 1983

Maison Martin Margiela
Waders, Spring/ Summer 1991

Pierre Jeanneret
Teak and Iron Chair, 1953-54

Achille and Pier Giacomo Castiglioni
Mezzadro Stool, 1957

Acoma Pueblo
Native American Jar

American Shaker Rocking Chair
1820-1850

Andy Warhol at the Silver Factory
1964

Brent Wadden
Alignment #1, 2012

Cyprien Gaillard
Untitled (Cleveland Indian), 2011

Ed Ruscha
Mad Scientist, 1975

Georg Baselitz
Ding Kariert, 1994

James Siena
Lattice, 2003

Jean Prouvé and Jacques André
A Rare Low Table, 1937

Louise Bourgeois
Untitled, 2002

Maison Martin Margiela
Dress, Spring/ Summer 2003

Michael Sailstorfer
Popcorn Machine 1-43-47, Frankfurt, 2008

Picnic at Hanging Rock
1975

Ralph Rapson
Glass Cube, 1974, Amery, Wisconsin

Richard Avedon
Jean Shrimpton in a NASA Spacesuit, Harper's Bazaar, April 1965

References

Veruschka
British Vogue, December 1966
1 of 22

André Sornay
Armoire à Portes Coulissantes, 1970
2 of 22

Andrew Wyeth
Garret Room, 1962
3 of 22

Ed Ruscha
NOT A BAD WORLD, IS IT?, 1983
4 of 22

Maison Martin Margiela
Waders, Spring/ Summer 1991
5 of 22

Pierre Jeanneret
Teak and Iron Chair, 1953-54
6 of 22

Achille and Pier Giacomo Castiglioni
Mezzadro Stool, 1957
7 of 22

Acoma Pueblo
Native American Jar
8 of 22

American Shaker Rocking Chair
1820-1850
9 of 22

Andy Warhol at the Silver Factory
1964
10 of 22

Brent Wadden
Alignment #1, 2012
11 of 22

Cyprien Gaillard
Untitled (Cleveland Indian), 2011
12 of 22

Ed Ruscha
Mad Scientist, 1975
13 of 22

Georg Baselitz
Ding Kariert, 1994
14 of 22

James Siena
Lattice, 2003
15 of 22

Jean Prouvé and Jacques André
A Rare Low Table, 1937
16 of 22

Louise Bourgeois
Untitled, 2002
17 of 22

Maison Martin Margiela
Dress, Spring/ Summer 2003
18 of 22

Michael Sailstorfer
Popcorn Machine 1-43-47, Frankfurt, 2008
19 of 22

Picnic at Hanging Rock
1975
20 of 22

Ralph Rapson
Glass Cube, 1974, Amery, Wisconsin
21 of 22
