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Calvin Klein F/W 2018

Art / Architecture / Design / Fashion

Fashion tends to live out it’s own fantasy, providing an escape from the physical reality that surrounds us. While Raf Simons’ earliest shows for Calvin Klein focused on blatant horror, fall/winter 2018 centered on perhaps the even scarier notion of a dystopian future, as well as our society at it’s present.


Posted October 29th, 2018 By Colby Mugrabi

For Simons’ third collection as creative director of the quintessential American fashion house, the designer offered a list of 50 words in his pre-show notes, words that included: Popcorn, Warhol, Looney, and Fantasy. These curated idioms set the tone for the garments that followed – a visual meditation on classic Americana signifiers and the concept of Freedom.

The collection opened with orange sanitation-like jumpsuits and jackets with reflective bands, transitioning into Western shirts, elevated patchwork ensembles and innocent prairie dresses, matured with sheer fabrics and ruffled bibs that barely covered the chest, looking like something straight out of Westworld. Mentioned also as inspiration was the 1995 film SAFE, in which Julienne Moore stars as a California housewife who suffers from mysterious illnesses. Elements of this disaster film were seen in the show’s use of silver foil-like material on long gloves, boxy jackets and head coverings, bringing to mind early space suits and 1970’s sci-fi films.

Taking place in the former American Stock Exchange in New York’s financial district, the show’s set design mimicked the same barn-esque environments featured in the brand’s stores and ad campaigns – Rustic scaffolding, popcorn-covered floors, Warhol prints, and Sterling Ruby sculptures filled the room; a backdrop as eclectic and electrifying as the collection that followed.

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References
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Veruschka

British Vogue, December 1966

Veruschka  british vogue  december 1966

André Sornay

Armoire à Portes Coulissantes, 1970

Andre   sornay  armoire a   portes coulissantes  1970

Andrew Wyeth

Garret Room, 1962

Andrew wyeth  garret room  1962

Ed Ruscha

NOT A BAD WORLD, IS IT?, 1983

Ed ruscha  not a bad world  is it   1983

Maison Martin Margiela

Waders, Spring/ Summer 1991

Maison margiela  waders  spring summer 1991

Pierre Jeanneret

Teak and Iron Chair, 1953-54

Pierre jeanneret  teak and iron chair  1953 54

Achille and Pier Giacomo Castiglioni

Mezzadro Stool, 1957

Achille and pier giacomo castiglioni  mezzadro stool  1957

Acoma Pueblo

Native American Jar

Acoma pueblo native american jar

American Shaker Rocking Chair

1820-1850

American shaker rocking chair  1820 1850

Andy Warhol at the Silver Factory

1964

Andy warhol at the silver factory  1964

Brent Wadden

Alignment #1, 2012

Brent wadden  alignment  1  2012

Cyprien Gaillard

Untitled (Cleveland Indian), 2011

Cyprien gaillard  untitled  cleveland indian   2011

Ed Ruscha

Mad Scientist, 1975

Ed ruscha  mad scientist  1975

Georg Baselitz

Ding Kariert, 1994

Georg baselitz  ding kariert  1994

James Siena

Lattice, 2003

James siena  lattice  2003

Jean Prouvé and Jacques André

A Rare Low Table, 1937

Jean prouve   and jacques andre    a rare low table  1937

Louise Bourgeois

Untitled, 2002

Louise bourgeois  untitled  2002

Maison Martin Margiela

Dress, Spring/ Summer 2003

Maison martin margiela  dress  spring summer 2003

Michael Sailstorfer

Popcorn Machine 1-43-47, Frankfurt, 2008

Michael sailstorfer  popcorn machine 1 43 47  frankfurt  2008

Picnic at Hanging Rock

1975

Picnic at hanging rock  1975

Ralph Rapson

Glass Cube, 1974, Amery, Wisconsin

Ralph rapson  glass cube  1974  amery  wisconsin

Richard Avedon

Jean Shrimpton in a NASA Spacesuit, Harper's Bazaar, April 1965

Richard avedon  jean shrimpton in a nasa spacesuit  harper s bazaar  april 1965
References
Veruschka  british vogue  december 1966

Veruschka

British Vogue, December 1966

1 of 22

Andre   sornay  armoire a   portes coulissantes  1970

André Sornay

Armoire à Portes Coulissantes, 1970

2 of 22

Andrew wyeth  garret room  1962

Andrew Wyeth

Garret Room, 1962

3 of 22

Ed ruscha  not a bad world  is it   1983

Ed Ruscha

NOT A BAD WORLD, IS IT?, 1983

4 of 22

Maison margiela  waders  spring summer 1991

Maison Martin Margiela

Waders, Spring/ Summer 1991

5 of 22

Pierre jeanneret  teak and iron chair  1953 54

Pierre Jeanneret

Teak and Iron Chair, 1953-54

6 of 22

Achille and pier giacomo castiglioni  mezzadro stool  1957

Achille and Pier Giacomo Castiglioni

Mezzadro Stool, 1957

7 of 22

Acoma pueblo native american jar

Acoma Pueblo

Native American Jar

8 of 22

American shaker rocking chair  1820 1850

American Shaker Rocking Chair

1820-1850

9 of 22

Andy warhol at the silver factory  1964

Andy Warhol at the Silver Factory

1964

10 of 22

Brent wadden  alignment  1  2012

Brent Wadden

Alignment #1, 2012

11 of 22

Cyprien gaillard  untitled  cleveland indian   2011

Cyprien Gaillard

Untitled (Cleveland Indian), 2011

12 of 22

Ed ruscha  mad scientist  1975

Ed Ruscha

Mad Scientist, 1975

13 of 22

Georg baselitz  ding kariert  1994

Georg Baselitz

Ding Kariert, 1994

14 of 22

James siena  lattice  2003

James Siena

Lattice, 2003

15 of 22

Jean prouve   and jacques andre    a rare low table  1937

Jean Prouvé and Jacques André

A Rare Low Table, 1937

16 of 22

Louise bourgeois  untitled  2002

Louise Bourgeois

Untitled, 2002

17 of 22

Maison martin margiela  dress  spring summer 2003

Maison Martin Margiela

Dress, Spring/ Summer 2003

18 of 22

Michael sailstorfer  popcorn machine 1 43 47  frankfurt  2008

Michael Sailstorfer

Popcorn Machine 1-43-47, Frankfurt, 2008

19 of 22

Picnic at hanging rock  1975

Picnic at Hanging Rock

1975

20 of 22

Ralph rapson  glass cube  1974  amery  wisconsin

Ralph Rapson

Glass Cube, 1974, Amery, Wisconsin

21 of 22

Richard avedon  jean shrimpton in a nasa spacesuit  harper s bazaar  april 1965

Richard Avedon

Jean Shrimpton in a NASA Spacesuit, Harper's Bazaar, April 1965

22 of 22


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