Fashion tends to live out it’s own fantasy, providing an escape from the physical reality that surrounds us. While Raf Simons’ earliest shows for Calvin Klein focused on blatant horror, fall/winter 2018 centered on perhaps the even scarier notion of a dystopian future, as well as our society at it’s present.
For Simons’ third collection as creative director of the quintessential American fashion house, the designer offered a list of 50 words in his pre-show notes, words that included: Popcorn, Warhol, Looney, and Fantasy. These curated idioms set the tone for the garments that followed – a visual meditation on classic Americana signifiers and the concept of Freedom.
The collection opened with orange sanitation-like jumpsuits and jackets with reflective bands, transitioning into Western shirts, elevated patchwork ensembles and innocent prairie dresses, matured with sheer fabrics and ruffled bibs that barely covered the chest, looking like something straight out of Westworld. Mentioned also as inspiration was the 1995 film SAFE, in which Julienne Moore stars as a California housewife who suffers from mysterious illnesses. Elements of this disaster film were seen in the show’s use of silver foil-like material on long gloves, boxy jackets and head coverings, bringing to mind early space suits and 1970’s sci-fi films.
Taking place in the former American Stock Exchange in New York’s financial district, the show’s set design mimicked the same barn-esque environments featured in the brand’s stores and ad campaigns – Rustic scaffolding, popcorn-covered floors, Warhol prints, and Sterling Ruby sculptures filled the room; a backdrop as eclectic and electrifying as the collection that followed.
![Ck fw 2018 muse board](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6MYtKuMzJe6yKswSSGe8AG/113fa6d090ce23b6a1277a0cee358700/CK_FW_2018_Muse_Board.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
References
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Veruschka
British Vogue, December 1966
![Veruschka british vogue december 1966](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3I3euLFMQUSwkQkIkwUKWm/81357a776aaff2f55ee165102d7b2b75/Veruschka__British_Vogue__December_1966.jpg)
André Sornay
Armoire à Portes Coulissantes, 1970
![Andre sornay armoire a portes coulissantes 1970](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/2ye4bbnAi080qWMaUKY0O4/a5bdcf0379a0babfe672658af1fa2b7d/Andre___Sornay__Armoire_a___Portes_Coulissantes__1970.jpg)
Andrew Wyeth
Garret Room, 1962
![Andrew wyeth garret room 1962](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/21YhErmv1yU8q6sKQgCYmm/3fa238e70f2a4c73e01b807a0e1acbb6/Andrew_Wyeth__Garret_Room__1962.jpg)
Ed Ruscha
NOT A BAD WORLD, IS IT?, 1983
![Ed ruscha not a bad world is it 1983](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3YZ0Yld1MQWIGYgoyO2IUQ/016e78df3d20bdca0a2cbb6179d9e547/Ed_Ruscha__NOT_A_BAD_WORLD__IS_IT___1983.jpg)
Maison Martin Margiela
Waders, Spring/ Summer 1991
![Maison margiela waders spring summer 1991](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/JfwkZwBfeEI0IIiqGQmIS/76ac6a898005041d57805b9def886f1b/Maison_Margiela__Waders__Spring_Summer_1991.jpg)
Pierre Jeanneret
Teak and Iron Chair, 1953-54
![Pierre jeanneret teak and iron chair 1953 54](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/59E7qnPubCUcgAsKyS6Ksk/5b60cd247a265c30caf5dde1981bef47/Pierre_Jeanneret__Teak_and_iron_chair__1953-54.jpg)
Achille and Pier Giacomo Castiglioni
Mezzadro Stool, 1957
![Achille and pier giacomo castiglioni mezzadro stool 1957](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3stKmz6AE88Qm4oSC4Uo8W/cb14204cdc17a2350ddae11d06aab85e/Achille_and_Pier_Giacomo_Castiglioni__Mezzadro_Stool__1957.jpg)
Acoma Pueblo
Native American Jar
![Acoma pueblo native american jar](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/7iBKyndx60W6UWuCcSQUK0/9243826ce88ff98c23003008d9cdbebb/Acoma_Pueblo_Native_American_Jar.jpg)
American Shaker Rocking Chair
1820-1850
![American shaker rocking chair 1820 1850](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/2dqdkeMEd6mQyMeguoeuyU/81ee87182dcdeec6f4a540712dc960bd/American_Shaker_Rocking_Chair__1820-1850.jpg)
Andy Warhol at the Silver Factory
1964
![Andy warhol at the silver factory 1964](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/43Bhf3EmPuUCam4CUYoSYc/1ed17c13570fc63eb7a2561ad930c7d0/Andy_Warhol_at_the_Silver_Factory__1964.jpg)
Brent Wadden
Alignment #1, 2012
![Brent wadden alignment 1 2012](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5mxUYUdLoIs6Co4E8QkMGU/066e0021bc2797de45c20cf01c7b6706/Brent_Wadden__Alignment__1__2012.jpg)
Cyprien Gaillard
Untitled (Cleveland Indian), 2011
![Cyprien gaillard untitled cleveland indian 2011](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/mGJtS5X1Di0wMyeqAeaS6/9bd8c62d6fc32c704c0964c6c4e4f267/Cyprien_Gaillard__Untitled__Cleveland_Indian___2011_.jpg)
Ed Ruscha
Mad Scientist, 1975
![Ed ruscha mad scientist 1975](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5xwkYSH6RUC0SiumScU0OW/22f6c89eb968229df22005c45221d0e3/Ed_Ruscha__Mad_Scientist__1975.jpg)
Georg Baselitz
Ding Kariert, 1994
![Georg baselitz ding kariert 1994](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/4NRayiF3i8g0qo4gyUy06S/9d42a29d789df6cfd820c8579c5ae4de/Georg_Baselitz__Ding_Kariert__1994.jpg)
James Siena
Lattice, 2003
![James siena lattice 2003](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/46u2p2iMpacWsMIoSequKM/6f2f26a3fdf7623a464787a56447820b/James_Siena__Lattice__2003.jpg)
Jean Prouvé and Jacques André
A Rare Low Table, 1937
![Jean prouve and jacques andre a rare low table 1937](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/1HWZ6edZPyeiOYGoMeCiyM/52e1d59bf734437a13db29552024cdcd/Jean_Prouve___and_Jacques_Andre____A_Rare_Low_Table__1937.jpeg)
Louise Bourgeois
Untitled, 2002
![Louise bourgeois untitled 2002](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/66MFrGbclOUMQUuuWiU84C/d99e803091c3dd0cd980cb9630c6ca23/Louise_Bourgeois__Untitled__2002.jpg)
Maison Martin Margiela
Dress, Spring/ Summer 2003
![Maison martin margiela dress spring summer 2003](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/OOmHMCaXeuguSWqI4cMWM/9cf280f078dfdecd3c03bec799a2f358/Maison_Martin_Margiela__Dress__Spring_Summer_2003.jpg)
Michael Sailstorfer
Popcorn Machine 1-43-47, Frankfurt, 2008
![Michael sailstorfer popcorn machine 1 43 47 frankfurt 2008](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5P39ZMneN2SyGYo4GEkUgS/7ff3822c480fcccad5ef942407558b96/Michael_Sailstorfer__Popcorn_Machine_1-43-47__Frankfurt__2008.jpg)
Picnic at Hanging Rock
1975
![Picnic at hanging rock 1975](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6xMXINxr44qWa6wSSkqyuK/a00fb533a8f171c158d929677cbb99d9/Picnic_at_Hanging_Rock__1975.jpg)
Ralph Rapson
Glass Cube, 1974, Amery, Wisconsin
![Ralph rapson glass cube 1974 amery wisconsin](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/29O1IFJnMkKyqO2sWkmoca/5ae2a4c05d88e3336d71e1dd4a94e98e/Ralph_Rapson__Glass_Cube__1974__Amery__Wisconsin.jpg)
Richard Avedon
Jean Shrimpton in a NASA Spacesuit, Harper's Bazaar, April 1965
![Richard avedon jean shrimpton in a nasa spacesuit harper s bazaar april 1965](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/4OS3scrbXyWCaYIIeqYcSu/21f1beeca1a76e97e01bb6f273c5c281/Richard_Avedon__Jean_Shrimpton_in_a_NASA_Spacesuit__Harper_s_Bazaar__April_1965.jpeg)
References
![Veruschka british vogue december 1966](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3I3euLFMQUSwkQkIkwUKWm/81357a776aaff2f55ee165102d7b2b75/Veruschka__British_Vogue__December_1966.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Veruschka
British Vogue, December 1966
1 of 22
![Andre sornay armoire a portes coulissantes 1970](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/2ye4bbnAi080qWMaUKY0O4/a5bdcf0379a0babfe672658af1fa2b7d/Andre___Sornay__Armoire_a___Portes_Coulissantes__1970.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
André Sornay
Armoire à Portes Coulissantes, 1970
2 of 22
![Andrew wyeth garret room 1962](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/21YhErmv1yU8q6sKQgCYmm/3fa238e70f2a4c73e01b807a0e1acbb6/Andrew_Wyeth__Garret_Room__1962.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Andrew Wyeth
Garret Room, 1962
3 of 22
![Ed ruscha not a bad world is it 1983](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3YZ0Yld1MQWIGYgoyO2IUQ/016e78df3d20bdca0a2cbb6179d9e547/Ed_Ruscha__NOT_A_BAD_WORLD__IS_IT___1983.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Ed Ruscha
NOT A BAD WORLD, IS IT?, 1983
4 of 22
![Maison margiela waders spring summer 1991](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/JfwkZwBfeEI0IIiqGQmIS/76ac6a898005041d57805b9def886f1b/Maison_Margiela__Waders__Spring_Summer_1991.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Maison Martin Margiela
Waders, Spring/ Summer 1991
5 of 22
![Pierre jeanneret teak and iron chair 1953 54](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/59E7qnPubCUcgAsKyS6Ksk/5b60cd247a265c30caf5dde1981bef47/Pierre_Jeanneret__Teak_and_iron_chair__1953-54.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Pierre Jeanneret
Teak and Iron Chair, 1953-54
6 of 22
![Achille and pier giacomo castiglioni mezzadro stool 1957](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3stKmz6AE88Qm4oSC4Uo8W/cb14204cdc17a2350ddae11d06aab85e/Achille_and_Pier_Giacomo_Castiglioni__Mezzadro_Stool__1957.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Achille and Pier Giacomo Castiglioni
Mezzadro Stool, 1957
7 of 22
![Acoma pueblo native american jar](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/7iBKyndx60W6UWuCcSQUK0/9243826ce88ff98c23003008d9cdbebb/Acoma_Pueblo_Native_American_Jar.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Acoma Pueblo
Native American Jar
8 of 22
![American shaker rocking chair 1820 1850](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/2dqdkeMEd6mQyMeguoeuyU/81ee87182dcdeec6f4a540712dc960bd/American_Shaker_Rocking_Chair__1820-1850.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
American Shaker Rocking Chair
1820-1850
9 of 22
![Andy warhol at the silver factory 1964](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/43Bhf3EmPuUCam4CUYoSYc/1ed17c13570fc63eb7a2561ad930c7d0/Andy_Warhol_at_the_Silver_Factory__1964.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Andy Warhol at the Silver Factory
1964
10 of 22
![Brent wadden alignment 1 2012](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5mxUYUdLoIs6Co4E8QkMGU/066e0021bc2797de45c20cf01c7b6706/Brent_Wadden__Alignment__1__2012.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Brent Wadden
Alignment #1, 2012
11 of 22
![Cyprien gaillard untitled cleveland indian 2011](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/mGJtS5X1Di0wMyeqAeaS6/9bd8c62d6fc32c704c0964c6c4e4f267/Cyprien_Gaillard__Untitled__Cleveland_Indian___2011_.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Cyprien Gaillard
Untitled (Cleveland Indian), 2011
12 of 22
![Ed ruscha mad scientist 1975](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5xwkYSH6RUC0SiumScU0OW/22f6c89eb968229df22005c45221d0e3/Ed_Ruscha__Mad_Scientist__1975.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Ed Ruscha
Mad Scientist, 1975
13 of 22
![Georg baselitz ding kariert 1994](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/4NRayiF3i8g0qo4gyUy06S/9d42a29d789df6cfd820c8579c5ae4de/Georg_Baselitz__Ding_Kariert__1994.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Georg Baselitz
Ding Kariert, 1994
14 of 22
![James siena lattice 2003](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/46u2p2iMpacWsMIoSequKM/6f2f26a3fdf7623a464787a56447820b/James_Siena__Lattice__2003.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
James Siena
Lattice, 2003
15 of 22
![Jean prouve and jacques andre a rare low table 1937](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/1HWZ6edZPyeiOYGoMeCiyM/52e1d59bf734437a13db29552024cdcd/Jean_Prouve___and_Jacques_Andre____A_Rare_Low_Table__1937.jpeg?w=1000&q=70)
Jean Prouvé and Jacques André
A Rare Low Table, 1937
16 of 22
![Louise bourgeois untitled 2002](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/66MFrGbclOUMQUuuWiU84C/d99e803091c3dd0cd980cb9630c6ca23/Louise_Bourgeois__Untitled__2002.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Louise Bourgeois
Untitled, 2002
17 of 22
![Maison martin margiela dress spring summer 2003](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/OOmHMCaXeuguSWqI4cMWM/9cf280f078dfdecd3c03bec799a2f358/Maison_Martin_Margiela__Dress__Spring_Summer_2003.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Maison Martin Margiela
Dress, Spring/ Summer 2003
18 of 22
![Michael sailstorfer popcorn machine 1 43 47 frankfurt 2008](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5P39ZMneN2SyGYo4GEkUgS/7ff3822c480fcccad5ef942407558b96/Michael_Sailstorfer__Popcorn_Machine_1-43-47__Frankfurt__2008.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Michael Sailstorfer
Popcorn Machine 1-43-47, Frankfurt, 2008
19 of 22
![Picnic at hanging rock 1975](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6xMXINxr44qWa6wSSkqyuK/a00fb533a8f171c158d929677cbb99d9/Picnic_at_Hanging_Rock__1975.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Picnic at Hanging Rock
1975
20 of 22
![Ralph rapson glass cube 1974 amery wisconsin](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/29O1IFJnMkKyqO2sWkmoca/5ae2a4c05d88e3336d71e1dd4a94e98e/Ralph_Rapson__Glass_Cube__1974__Amery__Wisconsin.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Ralph Rapson
Glass Cube, 1974, Amery, Wisconsin
21 of 22
![Richard avedon jean shrimpton in a nasa spacesuit harper s bazaar april 1965](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/4OS3scrbXyWCaYIIeqYcSu/21f1beeca1a76e97e01bb6f273c5c281/Richard_Avedon__Jean_Shrimpton_in_a_NASA_Spacesuit__Harper_s_Bazaar__April_1965.jpeg?w=1000&q=70)