Muse Boards
Calvin Klein F/W 2018
Calvin Klein
Fall/ Winter 2018
Fashion tends to live out it’s own fantasy, providing an escape from the physical reality that surrounds us. While Raf Simons’ earliest shows for Calvin Klein focused on blatant horror, fall/winter 2018 centered on perhaps the even scarier notion of a dystopian future, as well as our society at it’s present.
Posted October 29th, 2018
By
Colby Mugrabi
For Simons’ third collection as creative director of the quintessential American fashion house, the designer offered a list of 50 words in his pre-show notes, words that included: Popcorn, Warhol, Looney, and Fantasy. These curated idioms set the tone for the garments that followed – a visual meditation on classic Americana signifiers and the concept of Freedom.
The collection opened with orange sanitation-like jumpsuits and jackets with reflective bands, transitioning into Western shirts, elevated patchwork ensembles and innocent prairie dresses, matured with sheer fabrics and ruffled bibs that barely covered the chest, looking like something straight out of Westworld. Mentioned also as inspiration was the 1995 film SAFE, in which Julienne Moore stars as a California housewife who suffers from mysterious illnesses. Elements of this disaster film were seen in the show’s use of silver foil-like material on long gloves, boxy jackets and head coverings, bringing to mind early space suits and 1970’s sci-fi films.
Taking place in the former American Stock Exchange in New York’s financial district, the show’s set design mimicked the same barn-esque environments featured in the brand’s stores and ad campaigns – Rustic scaffolding, popcorn-covered floors, Warhol prints, and Sterling Ruby sculptures filled the room; a backdrop as eclectic and electrifying as the collection that followed.
References
Veruschka
British Vogue, December 1966
André Sornay
Armoire à Portes Coulissantes, 1970
Andrew Wyeth
Garret Room, 1962
Ed Ruscha
NOT A BAD WORLD, IS IT?, 1983
Maison Martin Margiela
Waders, Spring/ Summer 1991
Pierre Jeanneret
Teak and Iron Chair, 1953-54
Achille and Pier Giacomo Castiglioni
Mezzadro Stool, 1957
Acoma Pueblo
Native American Jar
American Shaker Rocking Chair
1820-1850
Andy Warhol at the Silver Factory
1964
Brent Wadden
Alignment #1, 2012
Cyprien Gaillard
Untitled (Cleveland Indian), 2011
Ed Ruscha
Mad Scientist, 1975
Georg Baselitz
Ding Kariert, 1994
James Siena
Lattice, 2003
Jean Prouvé and Jacques André
A Rare Low Table, 1937
Louise Bourgeois
Untitled, 2002
Maison Martin Margiela
Dress, Spring/ Summer 2003
Michael Sailstorfer
Popcorn Machine 1-43-47, Frankfurt, 2008
Picnic at Hanging Rock
1975
Ralph Rapson
Glass Cube, 1974, Amery, Wisconsin
Richard Avedon
Jean Shrimpton in a NASA Spacesuit, Harper's Bazaar, April 1965
References
Veruschka
British Vogue, December 1966
1 of 22
André Sornay
Armoire à Portes Coulissantes, 1970
2 of 22
Andrew Wyeth
Garret Room, 1962
3 of 22
Ed Ruscha
NOT A BAD WORLD, IS IT?, 1983
4 of 22
Maison Martin Margiela
Waders, Spring/ Summer 1991
5 of 22
Pierre Jeanneret
Teak and Iron Chair, 1953-54
6 of 22
Achille and Pier Giacomo Castiglioni
Mezzadro Stool, 1957
7 of 22
Acoma Pueblo
Native American Jar
8 of 22
American Shaker Rocking Chair
1820-1850
9 of 22
Andy Warhol at the Silver Factory
1964
10 of 22
Brent Wadden
Alignment #1, 2012
11 of 22
Cyprien Gaillard
Untitled (Cleveland Indian), 2011
12 of 22
Ed Ruscha
Mad Scientist, 1975
13 of 22
Georg Baselitz
Ding Kariert, 1994
14 of 22
James Siena
Lattice, 2003
15 of 22
Jean Prouvé and Jacques André
A Rare Low Table, 1937
16 of 22
Louise Bourgeois
Untitled, 2002
17 of 22
Maison Martin Margiela
Dress, Spring/ Summer 2003
18 of 22
Michael Sailstorfer
Popcorn Machine 1-43-47, Frankfurt, 2008
19 of 22
Picnic at Hanging Rock
1975
20 of 22
Ralph Rapson
Glass Cube, 1974, Amery, Wisconsin
21 of 22
Richard Avedon
Jean Shrimpton in a NASA Spacesuit, Harper's Bazaar, April 1965
22 of 22