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Calvin Klein S/S 2019

Art / Architecture / Design / Fashion

For his final runway collection at the creative helm of Calvin Klein, Raf Simons incorporated cheeky film references, camp iconography, masterful techniques in tailoring, and elements of horror, in a finite show layered with mixed messages.


Posted May 19th, 2019 By Colby Mugrabi

Staged in the ground floor space of the Calvin Klein headquarters at 205 W 39th Street, the collection’s eerie set proposed a duality between beauty and destruction. Large-scale video screens covering the three surrounding walls played an early scene from Jaws, detailing an unsettled seascape amid an endless horizon, while the runway’s blood-red carpeting suggested the possibility of horror to come; foreshowing, perhaps, the instantaneous demise of the fashion house with its creative director.

As the show commenced, Raf Simons’ film inspiration was on clear display. Models emerged from backstage wearing wetsuits and graduation gowns and caps, direct references to both Jaws and The Graduate, while T-shirts were printed with Spielberg’s iconic film posters, and Mrs. Robinson’s penchant for animal print showed up through dresses, wetsuit linings and cheetah print pants. Simons’ own directorial plot seemingly emerged within the collection’s oversized knit sweaters and the designer’s trademark methods of tailoring. Represented in the variety of sweater styles throughout the collection — ranging from preppy to bohemian — as well as skirts and dresses of varying lengths and fits, were ideas of fashion changing from generation to generation.

While the Jaws theme of man versus nature was eluded to in the collection’s blood splatter patterns, it seems the real theme here was high versus low art. Like Andy Warhol, Raf incorporates popular (or “mass”) culture with the “high art” of high fashion, while the incorporation of popular films, added an air of fun whimsy to an otherwise dark show.

Calvin klein ss 2019 muse board
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References

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Damian loeb  rayleigh scattering  2018

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Pol chambost  jug  model no. 837  1953

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Embryo chair by marc newson  1988  chromed steel and padding in molded polyurethane foam with neoprene cover

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Damien hirst  the immortal  1997 2005

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Picasso, La Californie, 1957

David douglas duncan  picasso  la californie  1957

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Fauteuil Shadow Junior, 2006

Gaetano pesce  fauteuil  shadow junior   2006

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Alber elbaz for geoffrey beene 90 s

John Baldessari

Umbrella (Orange), With Figure and Ball (Blue, Green), 2004

John baldessari  umbrella  orange   with figure and ball  blue  green   2004

Louise Bourgeois

Cinque (Detail), 2005

Louise bourgeois  cinque  detail   2005

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Vija celmins   untitled  ocean    1970

Anish Kapoor

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Anish kapoor  my red homeland  2003
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Damian loeb  rayleigh scattering  2018

Damian Loeb

Rayleigh Scattering, 2018

1 of 18

E0985e699f4e33c49d2e98af158cfa04

Brigitte Bardot & Bob Zagury

Búzios, 1964

2 of 18

Alberto burri  rosso plastica  1968

Alberto Burri

Rosso Plastica, 1968

3 of 18

Pol chambost  jug  model no. 837  1953

Pol Chambost

Jug, model no. 837, 1953

4 of 18

Embryo chair by marc newson  1988  chromed steel and padding in molded polyurethane foam with neoprene cover

Marc Newson

Embryo Chair, 1988

5 of 18

Damien hirst  the immortal  1997 2005

Damien Hirst

The Immortal, 1997-2005

6 of 18

David douglas duncan  picasso  la californie  1957

David Douglas Duncan

Picasso, La Californie, 1957

7 of 18

Gaetano pesce  fauteuil  shadow junior   2006

Gaetano Pesce

Fauteuil Shadow Junior, 2006

8 of 18

Alber elbaz for geoffrey beene 90 s

Alber Elbaz

Geoffrey Beene, 1990s

9 of 18

John baldessari  umbrella  orange   with figure and ball  blue  green   2004

John Baldessari

Umbrella (Orange), With Figure and Ball (Blue, Green), 2004

10 of 18

Louise bourgeois  cinque  detail   2005

Louise Bourgeois

Cinque (Detail), 2005

11 of 18

52794915 318462925472108 1383571542384019549 n

Bruno Taut

Worpsweder Käseglocke, Germany, 1926

12 of 18

C55ca9d39d76b8711bb7f9b524f1f2a3

Bruno Taut

Home Interior

13 of 18

Tumblr ozohw9q10i1ub9qbso1 500

Bruno Taut

Home Interior

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 bro0377

Thom Browne

Spring/Summer 2017 Menswear

15 of 18

Marc jacobs spring 2007 c5rk ltybi9l

Marc Jacobs

Spring/Summer 2007

16 of 18

Vija celmins   untitled  ocean    1970

Vija Celmins

Untitled (Ocean), 1970

17 of 18

Anish kapoor  my red homeland  2003

Anish Kapoor

My Red Homeland, 2003

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