After a four-year hiatus – and an entry into motherhood – Phoebe Philo’s return to Paris fashion week on the occasion of her first runway collection for Céline was well worth the painstaking wait.
The spring/summer 2010 show opened with strong, somewhat masculine leathers, and morphed cohesively into sheer nudes and delicate trimmings, each with an individual air of unfussy femininity. Contradictions were the primary focus of the collection- hard and soft, light and dark, airy and structured – with Céline’s staple handbags almost absent from the runway, save for a few understated clutches grasped in models’ hands. Yet there was no sense of decorative deficiency – the wooden wedges that accompanied most looks served as substantial ornamental glue – while the collection’s color scheme was something of perfection, seemingly well thought out and strategic, but to Philo, black, white, camel, and khaki, were simply her favorite at the time; an easy choice.
Philo made a conscious move away from the younger, girlish Chloe customer she once designed with in mind, transitioning into a wardrobe of sensual, smart looks for a refined, workingwoman. Phoebe Philo is known for creating worlds of her own, and with the bound inspiration books given to show-goers upon their arrival, outsiders were able to get a brief glimpse into the secret vault that is her design process; inside, David Bowie, Kurt Cobain, Helmut Newton, disco balls and grainy black-and-white nudes graced the pages. While this whirlpool of references might seem eclectic, the collection was seamless, each look the epitome of modern ‘day wear’ with a sophisticated, clever twist.
![Celine ss 2010 muse board](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3OJnG9aBpeuSCEUoU0oksq/4170a452069dc30332dc2c5fc4fcaaf8/Celine_SS_2010_Muse_Board.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
References
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Albert Frey
Frey House II, Palm Springs California
![Albert frey frey house ii palm springs ca](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/1zOq6aLWl6mK0EAeK4MuIG/70fdb706d80e3c9554b8d5ca12fe2ba8/Albert_Frey__Frey_House_II__Palm_Springs_CA.jpg)
Hermès
Spring/Summer 2000
![Herme s spring summer 2000](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5UStepUoA8mWI8giaaGMoo/32f01a29ba04929c85a364abe0cda442/Herme__s__Spring_Summer_2000.jpg)
Georgia O'Keeffe
Taos Mountain New Mexico, 1930
![Georgia o keeffe taos mountain new mexico 1930](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/2EPaO3xIo0eEaIuSeWcU4a/ae5d35a2c3ef2568ac3862347a472a4d/Georgia_O_Keeffe_____Taos_Mountain__New_Mexico_____1930.jpeg)
Jim Bassler
Shop, 2008
![Jim bassler shop 2008.](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3ALUvQVBlSKkog2EiUEgGC/fa94b1968ae6f9408e9ddd46fbd32d1c/Jim_Bassler__Shop__2008..jpg)
Jean Prouvé and Charlotte Perriand
Bibliothèque from the Maison de la Tunisie (A Collaboration with Sonia Delaunay), 1952
![Jean prouve and charlotte perriand bibliothe que from the maison de la tunisie collab. with sonia delaunay 1952](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/7gI1RnvnnGy8wwCck4aEMy/6a65eb6e8459df326c3773328f596312/Jean_Prouve___and_Charlotte_Perriand__Bibliothe__que_from_the_Maison_de_la_Tunisie__collab._with_Sonia_Delaunay____1952.jpg)
Mathias Goeritz
Mensaje XV Leviticos XX18, 1959
![Mathias goeritz mensaje xv leviticos xx 18 1959](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6jEhKrp9lYUU8YigmKc2oO/b666d542917ca832444e92e16c065006/Mathias_Goeritz__mensaje-xv-leviticos-xx-18__1959.jpg)
Frank Lloyd Wright
Ennis House, Los Angeles, 1924
![Frank lloyd wright ennis house los angeles 1924](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5nlFRbrkqWEsA8eqeOseG6/f8ad772515ca912e8ae361ead4184db2/Frank_Lloyd_Wright__Ennis_House__Los_Angeles__1924.jpg)
Alexander Calder
Cutlery, 1936
![Alexander calder cutlery 1936](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/PNAEHKr8UEEKmOoqiw8mA/94a0d3fed44e00fe09c4399bdc215c7e/Alexander_Calder__Cutlery__1936.jpg)
Alfred Stieglitz
Georgia O'Keeffe, 1918
![Alfred stieglitz georgia o keeffe 1918](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/1lvD7q2Zl60ueYQo0e64G2/ffb6bec9bec34c3399f37aef29ad165f/Alfred_Stieglitz__Georgia_O_Keeffe__1918.jpg)
Eva Hesse
Sans II, 1968
![Eva hesse sans ii 1968](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/7uPjiUu8jS8mywimQWyYAs/d7bf19184b9c5d0812537acd8cd0fedf/Eva_Hesse__Sans_II__1968.jpg)
Franco Rubartelli
Veruschka in Yves Saint Laurent Safari, 1968
![Franco rubartelli veruschka in yves saint laurent safari 1968](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/4TBfo7yXKwsewigCYgsisA/d949f5447ab1e37d4c03c4dd323ef105/Franco_Rubartelli__Veruschka_in_Yves_Saint_Laurent_Safari__1968.jpg)
Georges Jouve
Ceramic Tiles
![Georges jouve ceramic tiles](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5N5we0CII8KsYkwiQIIMiC/458a9cbcbfad2103f1c72736dbf455db/Georges_Jouve__Ceramic_Tiles.jpg)
Hermès by Martin Margiela
Spring/Summer 2000
![Herme s by martin margiela spring summer 2000](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/35wfDpiRHqO86S8WSYEwO8/974f3f2dab5103a8e74ecf023fd6551f/Herme__s_by_Martin_Margiela__Spring_Summer_2000.jpg)
Jean Prouvé
Interior
![Jean prouve interior](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/1lnqVmQQxuoYGoiYYSIsMy/4498bd87ab0bab3cdb37e928b3c0a9dd/Jean_Prouve___Interior.jpg)
Kaneshige Toyo
A Bizen Porcelain Water Jar
![Kaneshige toyo a bizen porcelain water jar](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/Bx32x4P8ECOWwOSGomwsw/dfa450c062f07a9d49a386d663759047/Kaneshige_Toyo__A_Bizen-porcelain-water-jar.jpg)
Valentine Schlegel's Home
Montparnasse
![Valentine schlegal s home in montparnasse](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5XDa6gZOTeSmwmoWIKQk4I/2df7a0ee56c1c57fc761306ca5f929d3/Valentine_Schlegal_s_home_in_Montparnasse.jpg)
References
![Albert frey frey house ii palm springs ca](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/1zOq6aLWl6mK0EAeK4MuIG/70fdb706d80e3c9554b8d5ca12fe2ba8/Albert_Frey__Frey_House_II__Palm_Springs_CA.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Albert Frey
Frey House II, Palm Springs California
1 of 17
![Herme s spring summer 2000](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5UStepUoA8mWI8giaaGMoo/32f01a29ba04929c85a364abe0cda442/Herme__s__Spring_Summer_2000.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Hermès
Spring/Summer 2000
2 of 17
![Georgia o keeffe taos mountain new mexico 1930](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/2EPaO3xIo0eEaIuSeWcU4a/ae5d35a2c3ef2568ac3862347a472a4d/Georgia_O_Keeffe_____Taos_Mountain__New_Mexico_____1930.jpeg?w=1000&q=70)
Georgia O'Keeffe
Taos Mountain New Mexico, 1930
3 of 17
![Jim bassler shop 2008.](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3ALUvQVBlSKkog2EiUEgGC/fa94b1968ae6f9408e9ddd46fbd32d1c/Jim_Bassler__Shop__2008..jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Jim Bassler
Shop, 2008
4 of 17
![Jean prouve and charlotte perriand bibliothe que from the maison de la tunisie collab. with sonia delaunay 1952](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/7gI1RnvnnGy8wwCck4aEMy/6a65eb6e8459df326c3773328f596312/Jean_Prouve___and_Charlotte_Perriand__Bibliothe__que_from_the_Maison_de_la_Tunisie__collab._with_Sonia_Delaunay____1952.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Jean Prouvé and Charlotte Perriand
Bibliothèque from the Maison de la Tunisie (A Collaboration with Sonia Delaunay), 1952
6 of 17
![Mathias goeritz mensaje xv leviticos xx 18 1959](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6jEhKrp9lYUU8YigmKc2oO/b666d542917ca832444e92e16c065006/Mathias_Goeritz__mensaje-xv-leviticos-xx-18__1959.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Mathias Goeritz
Mensaje XV Leviticos XX18, 1959
7 of 17
![Frank lloyd wright ennis house los angeles 1924](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5nlFRbrkqWEsA8eqeOseG6/f8ad772515ca912e8ae361ead4184db2/Frank_Lloyd_Wright__Ennis_House__Los_Angeles__1924.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Frank Lloyd Wright
Ennis House, Los Angeles, 1924
8 of 17
![Alexander calder cutlery 1936](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/PNAEHKr8UEEKmOoqiw8mA/94a0d3fed44e00fe09c4399bdc215c7e/Alexander_Calder__Cutlery__1936.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Alexander Calder
Cutlery, 1936
9 of 17
![Alfred stieglitz georgia o keeffe 1918](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/1lvD7q2Zl60ueYQo0e64G2/ffb6bec9bec34c3399f37aef29ad165f/Alfred_Stieglitz__Georgia_O_Keeffe__1918.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Alfred Stieglitz
Georgia O'Keeffe, 1918
10 of 17
![Eva hesse sans ii 1968](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/7uPjiUu8jS8mywimQWyYAs/d7bf19184b9c5d0812537acd8cd0fedf/Eva_Hesse__Sans_II__1968.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Eva Hesse
Sans II, 1968
11 of 17
![Franco rubartelli veruschka in yves saint laurent safari 1968](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/4TBfo7yXKwsewigCYgsisA/d949f5447ab1e37d4c03c4dd323ef105/Franco_Rubartelli__Veruschka_in_Yves_Saint_Laurent_Safari__1968.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Franco Rubartelli
Veruschka in Yves Saint Laurent Safari, 1968
12 of 17
![Georges jouve ceramic tiles](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5N5we0CII8KsYkwiQIIMiC/458a9cbcbfad2103f1c72736dbf455db/Georges_Jouve__Ceramic_Tiles.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Georges Jouve
Ceramic Tiles
13 of 17
![Herme s by martin margiela spring summer 2000](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/35wfDpiRHqO86S8WSYEwO8/974f3f2dab5103a8e74ecf023fd6551f/Herme__s_by_Martin_Margiela__Spring_Summer_2000.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Hermès by Martin Margiela
Spring/Summer 2000
14 of 17
![Jean prouve interior](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/1lnqVmQQxuoYGoiYYSIsMy/4498bd87ab0bab3cdb37e928b3c0a9dd/Jean_Prouve___Interior.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Jean Prouvé
Interior
15 of 17
![Kaneshige toyo a bizen porcelain water jar](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/Bx32x4P8ECOWwOSGomwsw/dfa450c062f07a9d49a386d663759047/Kaneshige_Toyo__A_Bizen-porcelain-water-jar.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Kaneshige Toyo
A Bizen Porcelain Water Jar
16 of 17
![Valentine schlegal s home in montparnasse](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5XDa6gZOTeSmwmoWIKQk4I/2df7a0ee56c1c57fc761306ca5f929d3/Valentine_Schlegal_s_home_in_Montparnasse.jpg?w=1000&q=70)