When Phoebe Philo took over the helm at Céline in 2008, the image of the Céline woman would be immortalized into the fashion world’s collective conscious. Classic and powerful, put together without being flashy, professional and clean-cut; Céline’s clothing became an attitude, a secret language among modern women that existed only under the female gaze. Philo’s Céline let the woman in the clothes shine through with masterful staples like wide-legged trousers and tuxedo jackets that celebrated simplicity and skilled tailoring over fussy details. Spring of 2013 introduced a collection that, while staying attuned to the spirit of the house under Philo, introduced a new layer of calculated mess: a chicly disheveled Céline woman.
True to Céline, the Spring 2013 collection — set to “Useless” by Depeche Mode — sticks to calculated neutrals: black, white, off-white, lilac, and pink. Where the collection diverts is in the fit: slouchy satin trousers that hang off the hips and wrinkle slightly at the ankle pair with slightly oversized vests and plunging camisoles. Satin slips that are as Céline as they come are modified by unkempt detailing: unfinished loose threads and fraying hems. Fabric twists seem to be a thread that runs through the collection, present around the collar of blouses, at the waist of trousers, and tied over the shoulders like preppy sweaters. The motif of this twist is a microcosm of the entire collection: subtle, calculated mess.
The twists carry over into accessories in the models’ knotted bracelets. Other notable accessories are the slouchy roll-top clutches in pops of color and the wide array of witty footwear. In keeping with the collection’s more relaxed attitude, footwear goes the extra mile with fuzzy slip-on soles in vibrant colors and fuzzy heels that echo the work of Meret Oppenheim. Perhaps the stand out piece amongst the feast of show-stealing footwear are the cheeky nude pumps with painted-on toes and bright red toenails. Perhaps taking a hint from Elsa Schiaparelli, Philo’s choice to include these pieces among her collection speak to her vision of the Céline woman. She’s professional, sure, but she also has an understanding of the avant-garde; a sense of humor about her.
Overall, the mood at Céline was loose, disheveled elegance. There’s a clear nod to the work of the Antwerp 6 (plus Martin Margiela) in the collection’s deconstructed and distressed detailing. Still, it stays true to Phoebe Philo’s Céline spirit that has been absent in recent months.
![Celine ss 2013 muse board](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/35ebJF6KqljYZd4WB2kEiz/005bc488da5bc3603beb616fe3db2277/Celine_SS_2013_Muse_Board.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
References
- 1
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Bruno Taut
Glass House, 1914
![Bruno taut glass house 1914](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/7a4E2CxbtWLtrVJG5anJl5/c181b96dc7a097c5002643ee9a7f76bd/Bruno_Taut_Glass_House_1914.jpg)
Eileen Gray
Coiffeuse Armoire Aluminium, Bois et Liège, 1924-26
![Eileen gray coiffeuse armoire aluminium bois et lie ge 1924 26](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/570D488bPUi45C337xssFZ/9d3e8efb87a23f848bb71f6cf47c15b4/Eileen_Gray_-_Coiffeuse__Armoire__-_Aluminium__Bois_et_Lie__ge_-_1924-26.jpg)
Herb Ritts
Brigitte Nielsen with Netting, Malibu, 1987
![Herb ritts brigitte nielsen with netting malibu 1987](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/RCLd9WobqmtODKr5mFDvP/6349d0ac18adefad5a7c05a361f0a4cb/Herb_Ritts__Brigitte_Nielsen_with_Netting__Malibu_1987.jpg)
Man Ray
Photograph of Lee Miller, 1932
![Man ray photography of lee miller 1932](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5MZr3wz39q00ekVpXNSAmp/bf0773df7e7dacd5da851312ded1564c/Man_Ray__Photography_of_Lee_Miller__1932.png)
Meret Oppenheim
Fur Gloves with Wooden Fingernails, 1936
![Meret oppenheim fur gloves with wooden fingernails 1936](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/2T7w4l8QD15A6t7wEm07Mh/4c1fcb0b31bc95b7de317abdeaabff46/Meret_Oppenheim__Fur_Gloves_with_Wooden_Fingernails__1936.jpg)
René Coulon
Modernist Desk
![Rene coulon a modernist desk](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5VsNK293TUYw6dodpe6PCI/ea91383481c2f439ca29114a8a1e533a/Rene_Coulon__a_modernist_desk.png)
César
Pouce Thumb, 1965
![Ce sar pouce thumb 1965](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/7aAmRWlvaLItR0mDiQ2S5z/39d964cc9e3b87ecb62241b53fbc66e1/Ce__sar_____Pouce____thumb__1965.jpg)
César
Breast, 1966
![Ce sar breast 1966](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5oyTrUuIAshuvJsvNxEDLM/2e9b2515a5dfa553a771a9ba55b433d1/Ce__sar__Breast__1966.jpg)
Eileen Gray
Chaise Chair Non-Conformiste, 1925-28
![Eileen gray chaise chair non conformiste 1925 1928](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/27iAnDzJ1fi6pcLTA9ZRQC/de3e0298d34665f47dc845fef8801d34/Eileen_Gray___Chaise_-_Chair__Non-Conformiste____1925-1928.jpg)
Man Ray
Elizabeth Lee Miller, 1939
![Elizabeth lee miller by man ray 1939](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/401O3i5gTKuHugVAMaUxFS/7255457484aa8a14d968e05437036157/Elizabeth_Lee_Miller_by_Man_Ray__1939.jpg)
Man Ray
Indestructible Object, 1922-23
![Indestructible object by man ray 1922 23](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3TotcMbvqZtt4fbs7VfnCB/1c549d32978aac12715b7dcdc28c00fa/Indestructible_Object_by_Man_Ray__1922-23.jpg)
Jean-Michel Frank with Alberto and Diego Giacometti
Toutankhamon Lamp, 1933
Josef Hoffmann
Table Lamp, 1905
![Josef hoffmann table lamp 1905](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/G12Q7O0ecWgQTZz5D7BSJ/a79a46eea1c097147a576166004980b1/Josef-Hoffmann-Table_Lamp__1905.jpg)
Lee Miller
Solarization Photo, Self-Portrait, 1930
![Lee miller solarization photo self portrait 1930](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/1bcx9dRPiwD73sGzjZIiQh/38a997c92ecab2dab3c0dbd52914231e/Lee_Miller_solarization_photo_Self-Portrait_1930.jpg)
Lee Miller
Portrait of Space, Nr Siwa, Egypt, 1937
![Lee miller portrait of space nr siwa egypt 1937](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/2pcKGIlGWOXxTaVIgFwseP/8c5a3c0df945b0e47cd8a713e9018d62/Lee_Miller__Portrait_of_Space__Nr_Siwa__Egypt_1937.jpg)
Lucio Fontana
Concetto spaziale, La fine di Dio, 1963
![Lucio fontana 1899 1968 concetto spaziale la fine di dio](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3705QHj7o03dZvtvOyu9JH/4a9d35bce2504288f7eed0fab8804d23/Lucio_Fontana__1899-1968__Concetto_spaziale__La_fine_di_Dio.jpg)
Luis Bunuel and Salvador Dali
Un Chien Andalou, 1929
![Luis bunuel and salvador dali un chien andalou 1929](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/1HihF5YmwrOFYpSD3JcJd6/764753177932ac56453339fab64cff47/Luis_Bunuel_and_Salvador_Dali__UN_CHIEN_ANDALOU__1929_.jpeg)
Meret Oppenheim
Object, fur-covered cup, saucer, and spoon, 1936
![Meret oppenheim object. fur covered cup saucer and spoon 1936.](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/4MJhb8oHmeBOht8nlAQDGc/efa976747255d55001530a2f38049299/Meret_Oppenheim__Object._Fur-covered_cup__saucer__and_spoon__1936..jpg)
Nanda Vigo
Cronotopo, 1964
![Nanda vigo cronotopo 1964](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/26AnpuNqvKZFY1Ugbn4Q3H/afc301b37a352e83c59be9f8ddf0e470/Nanda_Vigo_Cronotopo__1964_.jpg)
René Coulon
Radiaver Light for Saint Gobain, 1937
![Rene coulon radiaver light for saint gobain 1937](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6M2zRwDR2PWjDwIbAsfAPD/6051cfc675d170787bc8d5fdf3b6c9c1/Rene___Coulon__Radiaver_Light_for_Saint_Gobain__1937.jpg)
René Magritte
Femme-bouteille, 1940s
![Rene magritte femme bouteille 1940s](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/2BxryJmW9AoMDWQdo32LLD/167d1768ffaaea33150b15d14b3537fe/Rene___Magritte__Femme-bouteille__1940s.jpg)
Richard Meier
Hypolux Bank Building, Luxembourg, 1989-93
![Richard meier hypolux bank building luxembourg 1989 1993](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3Qk6abdFUbFjRJnepODVIf/e4ac37cc1e52f7a928846f4dfd259183/Richard_Meier__Hypolux_Bank_Building__Luxembourg__1989_-_1993.jpg)
Steve Schapiro
Rene Magritte, 1965
![Steve schapiro rene magritte 1965](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3N3F3LLB1zTdHs7XtpQ7b7/092b43764880ff33046dcf9ad9c01731/Steve_Schapiro_-_Rene_Magritte__1965.jpg)
References
![Bruno taut glass house 1914](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/7a4E2CxbtWLtrVJG5anJl5/c181b96dc7a097c5002643ee9a7f76bd/Bruno_Taut_Glass_House_1914.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Bruno Taut
Glass House, 1914
1 of 23
![Eileen gray coiffeuse armoire aluminium bois et lie ge 1924 26](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/570D488bPUi45C337xssFZ/9d3e8efb87a23f848bb71f6cf47c15b4/Eileen_Gray_-_Coiffeuse__Armoire__-_Aluminium__Bois_et_Lie__ge_-_1924-26.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Eileen Gray
Coiffeuse Armoire Aluminium, Bois et Liège, 1924-26
2 of 23
![Herb ritts brigitte nielsen with netting malibu 1987](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/RCLd9WobqmtODKr5mFDvP/6349d0ac18adefad5a7c05a361f0a4cb/Herb_Ritts__Brigitte_Nielsen_with_Netting__Malibu_1987.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Herb Ritts
Brigitte Nielsen with Netting, Malibu, 1987
3 of 23
![Man ray photography of lee miller 1932](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5MZr3wz39q00ekVpXNSAmp/bf0773df7e7dacd5da851312ded1564c/Man_Ray__Photography_of_Lee_Miller__1932.png?w=1000&q=70)
Man Ray
Photograph of Lee Miller, 1932
4 of 23
![Meret oppenheim fur gloves with wooden fingernails 1936](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/2T7w4l8QD15A6t7wEm07Mh/4c1fcb0b31bc95b7de317abdeaabff46/Meret_Oppenheim__Fur_Gloves_with_Wooden_Fingernails__1936.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Meret Oppenheim
Fur Gloves with Wooden Fingernails, 1936
5 of 23
![Rene coulon a modernist desk](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5VsNK293TUYw6dodpe6PCI/ea91383481c2f439ca29114a8a1e533a/Rene_Coulon__a_modernist_desk.png?w=1000&q=70)
René Coulon
Modernist Desk
6 of 23
![Ce sar pouce thumb 1965](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/7aAmRWlvaLItR0mDiQ2S5z/39d964cc9e3b87ecb62241b53fbc66e1/Ce__sar_____Pouce____thumb__1965.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
César
Pouce Thumb, 1965
7 of 23
![Ce sar breast 1966](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5oyTrUuIAshuvJsvNxEDLM/2e9b2515a5dfa553a771a9ba55b433d1/Ce__sar__Breast__1966.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
César
Breast, 1966
8 of 23
![Eileen gray chaise chair non conformiste 1925 1928](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/27iAnDzJ1fi6pcLTA9ZRQC/de3e0298d34665f47dc845fef8801d34/Eileen_Gray___Chaise_-_Chair__Non-Conformiste____1925-1928.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Eileen Gray
Chaise Chair Non-Conformiste, 1925-28
9 of 23
![Elizabeth lee miller by man ray 1939](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/401O3i5gTKuHugVAMaUxFS/7255457484aa8a14d968e05437036157/Elizabeth_Lee_Miller_by_Man_Ray__1939.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Man Ray
Elizabeth Lee Miller, 1939
10 of 23
![Indestructible object by man ray 1922 23](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3TotcMbvqZtt4fbs7VfnCB/1c549d32978aac12715b7dcdc28c00fa/Indestructible_Object_by_Man_Ray__1922-23.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Man Ray
Indestructible Object, 1922-23
11 of 23
Jean-Michel Frank with Alberto and Diego Giacometti
Toutankhamon Lamp, 1933
12 of 23
![Josef hoffmann table lamp 1905](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/G12Q7O0ecWgQTZz5D7BSJ/a79a46eea1c097147a576166004980b1/Josef-Hoffmann-Table_Lamp__1905.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Josef Hoffmann
Table Lamp, 1905
13 of 23
![Lee miller solarization photo self portrait 1930](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/1bcx9dRPiwD73sGzjZIiQh/38a997c92ecab2dab3c0dbd52914231e/Lee_Miller_solarization_photo_Self-Portrait_1930.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Lee Miller
Solarization Photo, Self-Portrait, 1930
14 of 23
![Lee miller portrait of space nr siwa egypt 1937](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/2pcKGIlGWOXxTaVIgFwseP/8c5a3c0df945b0e47cd8a713e9018d62/Lee_Miller__Portrait_of_Space__Nr_Siwa__Egypt_1937.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Lee Miller
Portrait of Space, Nr Siwa, Egypt, 1937
15 of 23
![Lucio fontana 1899 1968 concetto spaziale la fine di dio](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3705QHj7o03dZvtvOyu9JH/4a9d35bce2504288f7eed0fab8804d23/Lucio_Fontana__1899-1968__Concetto_spaziale__La_fine_di_Dio.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Lucio Fontana
Concetto spaziale, La fine di Dio, 1963
16 of 23
![Luis bunuel and salvador dali un chien andalou 1929](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/1HihF5YmwrOFYpSD3JcJd6/764753177932ac56453339fab64cff47/Luis_Bunuel_and_Salvador_Dali__UN_CHIEN_ANDALOU__1929_.jpeg?w=1000&q=70)
Luis Bunuel and Salvador Dali
Un Chien Andalou, 1929
17 of 23
![Meret oppenheim object. fur covered cup saucer and spoon 1936.](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/4MJhb8oHmeBOht8nlAQDGc/efa976747255d55001530a2f38049299/Meret_Oppenheim__Object._Fur-covered_cup__saucer__and_spoon__1936..jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Meret Oppenheim
Object, fur-covered cup, saucer, and spoon, 1936
18 of 23
![Nanda vigo cronotopo 1964](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/26AnpuNqvKZFY1Ugbn4Q3H/afc301b37a352e83c59be9f8ddf0e470/Nanda_Vigo_Cronotopo__1964_.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Nanda Vigo
Cronotopo, 1964
19 of 23
![Rene coulon radiaver light for saint gobain 1937](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6M2zRwDR2PWjDwIbAsfAPD/6051cfc675d170787bc8d5fdf3b6c9c1/Rene___Coulon__Radiaver_Light_for_Saint_Gobain__1937.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
René Coulon
Radiaver Light for Saint Gobain, 1937
20 of 23
![Rene magritte femme bouteille 1940s](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/2BxryJmW9AoMDWQdo32LLD/167d1768ffaaea33150b15d14b3537fe/Rene___Magritte__Femme-bouteille__1940s.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
René Magritte
Femme-bouteille, 1940s
21 of 23
![Richard meier hypolux bank building luxembourg 1989 1993](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3Qk6abdFUbFjRJnepODVIf/e4ac37cc1e52f7a928846f4dfd259183/Richard_Meier__Hypolux_Bank_Building__Luxembourg__1989_-_1993.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Richard Meier
Hypolux Bank Building, Luxembourg, 1989-93
22 of 23
![Steve schapiro rene magritte 1965](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3N3F3LLB1zTdHs7XtpQ7b7/092b43764880ff33046dcf9ad9c01731/Steve_Schapiro_-_Rene_Magritte__1965.jpg?w=1000&q=70)