Karl Lagerfeld’s Fall/Winter 2015 collection for Chanel was an adoring ode to the house’s late founder and Parisian café culture of the early 20th century. Guests arrived at the Grand Palais to find themselves immersed in an authentic, old-style Parisian brasserie – coffee and croissants, included.
Tweeds, plaids, and herringbones were aplenty, while jackets took on a ‘puffier’ shape for the chilly winter months and skirts fell primarily below the knee, a silhouette that transported viewers back to Chanel’s early days. The French house’s trademark beige and black, cap-toed, sling-back heels were the focal point accessories of the season; giving an elegant sense of continuity among the collection’s many looks.
In true Lagerfeld fashion, the Brasserie theme was cleverly referenced throughout the show, in handbags that resembled menus, wrap around skirts covered in miniature mosaic floor tiles and dresses embellished with doily’s one might find resting under their café au lait. Couture-level techniques were employed in surprising manners, such as intricate, origami-like quilted sleeves that mimicked the ancient art of Japanese Shibori knotting, adorned with tiny, pronounced bows.
The looks were feminine, but not blatantly so, a nod to the understated androgyny Chanel herself was known for- a delicately pleated pink blouse was the only explicitly ‘girlish’ piece throughout the collection. For Fall/winter 2015, Lagerfeld succeeded in achieving classic modernity thought his futuristic, fashion love letter to Gabrielle Chanel.