Imagine one’s self outfitted in couture, cruising down the Nile alongside King Tut – Egypt’s the most famous pharaoh – who ruled the 18th dynasty thousands of years ago during a period of Egyptian history known as the ‘New Kingdom’. This opulent, seemingly preposterous visual becomes all the more conceivable when expressed through the ethereal mind of John Galliano.
The designer’s spring/summer 2004 couture collection for the house of Christian Dior sought inspiration from ancient Egypt, modernizing age-old cultural references into a dazzling spectacle of excess. What began for Galliano with an aerial tour of Cairo and Luxor, evolved into a collection rich with cross-cultural inspiration; from the exaggerated poses of ancient Egyptian figurines, to 1950’s fashion photographs by Richard Avedon and Irving Penn.
Supermodel Erin O’ Connor opened the show outfitted as Cleopatra, complete with a Nefertiti hat and sphinx eye makeup, while Reptile-like scaled leather looks in hues of gold and bright blue were paired with egg-sized scarab earrings. Hieroglyphs and tomb paintings were called upon as decorative elements on the collection’s extreme eveningwear, while models mimicked mummies in black and white, gem-encrusted silk gowns, accessorized with complimentary head wraps. The season’s bedazzling visual contrasts extended beyond the collection’s coupling of ancient and modern references, as Galliano paired geometric shapes cut from golden mirrors, with airy tulle gowns, and corseted, structured breastplates with billowing tiers of organza. In collaboration with London-based milliner Stephen Jones, King Tut-inspired metallic masks and elaborately feathered headdresses further enhanced each look, as Galliano’s Queens of the Nile strutted down the runway to a soundtrack that fittingly featured the Bangle’s 1980s hit, “Walk Like an Egyptian.”
The beauty of both Galliano the ‘showman’ and Galliano the ‘designer’ is defined by his ability to references the means of Christian Dior’s legacy while creating his own definition of couture, one that is theatrical and dramatic, blurring the lines between costume design and high fashion. Whether the collection is practical or wearable is up for debate, but one thing is without question – John Galliano knows how to put on a show.
References
- 1
- 2
Barry Lategan
Vogue Italia, March 1970
Irving Penn
Sue Murray wearing a Balenciaga evening dress and wrap, Vogue, September 1967
James Lee Byars
The Death of James Lee Byars, 1982-1994
Maxime Du Camp
Travel Photograph, 1800s
Egyptian Bright Blue Faience Ushabti of Psamtik
God's Father, born to Seba-rekhyet, 570-526 B.C
The Gold Pyramid House
1977, Wadsworth, IL
Andy Warhol and Candy Darling
Early 1970s
Collar of Neferuptah
1800s BC
Dora Kallmus
Fashion Model, 1927
Richard Avedon
Dovima in Balenciaga, Harper's Bazaar, 1950
Empire Period Armchairs
1812
Frank Gehry
Fish Sculpture Designed for the 1992 Barcelona Olympics
Fulvio Bianconi for Venini
Vase 'Fasce Orizzontali,' 1950
Penny Slinger
Mountain of Mysteries, 1976-1977
Ancient Egyptian Small Gold Perfume Box
Tutankhamun
Inlaid pectoral, scarab beetle with Isis and Nephthys
References
Barry Lategan
Vogue Italia, March 1970
1 of 22
Irving Penn
Sue Murray wearing a Balenciaga evening dress and wrap, Vogue, September 1967
2 of 22
James Lee Byars
The Death of James Lee Byars, 1982-1994
3 of 22
Maxime Du Camp
Travel Photograph, 1800s
4 of 22
Egyptian Bright Blue Faience Ushabti of Psamtik
God's Father, born to Seba-rekhyet, 570-526 B.C
5 of 22
The Gold Pyramid House
1977, Wadsworth, IL
6 of 22
Andy Warhol and Candy Darling
Early 1970s
9 of 22
Collar of Neferuptah
1800s BC
10 of 22
Dora Kallmus
Fashion Model, 1927
11 of 22
Richard Avedon
Dovima in Balenciaga, Harper's Bazaar, 1950
13 of 22
Empire Period Armchairs
1812
14 of 22
Frank Gehry
Fish Sculpture Designed for the 1992 Barcelona Olympics
17 of 22
Fulvio Bianconi for Venini
Vase 'Fasce Orizzontali,' 1950
18 of 22
Penny Slinger
Mountain of Mysteries, 1976-1977
19 of 22
Ancient Egyptian Small Gold Perfume Box
20 of 22