In quintessential Kawakubo fashion, the Japanese designer took Comme des Garcons’s Fall/Winter 2012 collection as an opportunity to twist convention, turning the idea of ‘flatness’ into an opportunity to explore exaggerated silhouettes, volume, and dimension.
The show began devoid of a soundtrack, save for the pitter-patter of velvety, high-heeled oxfords clicking down the runway.
Opening the collection, a set of candy colored, felted coats assembled in bright red, bubblegum pink, and electric blue, evoking a palette of bold simplicity. Graphics and patterns followed suit, as a slew of likeminded, felted ensembles covered in pop art camouflage, cheetah prints, polka-dots, and oversized hand-drawn flowers represented the progression of an idea on form, now with embellishment. Flowers were repeated throughout the collection, employed in a multiplicity of formats and mediums, while geometric cutouts added sensuality and dimension to the massive garments which otherwise overwhelmed the models’ tiny frames.
The collection had a paper-doll feel to it, playful by anyone’s standard – particularly that of Kawakubo – while the show’s lighthearted tonality was counterbalanced by the models’ robotic, emotionless movements, as the oversized garments hung on their bodies in rigid uniformity. Mid-show, a series of floral looks emerged entirely covering the body, from ankles to the top-of-head – matching floral masks included.
The later half of the show was a true embodiment of Kawakubo’s signature peculiarities; head-to-toe floral numbers accessorized with complimentary face-coverings, and coats with jagged collars and distorted, sharp arms, endearingly reminiscent of a child cutting and pasting pieces together. The collection concisely came to a head in the last five looks of the show; sequined, oversized doll dresses baring accentuated waists and outrageously rounded hips – an avant-garde interpretation of childhood
![Cdg fw 2012 muse board](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/4ATrEfYEVyYSOQwUqGQM6a/22705f0f89a90332ba56a62233c4de1a/CDG_FW_2012_Muse_Board.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
References
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American Vogue
June 1966
![American vogue june 1966](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/4Ty3UPyjFuO8EmkyW6cWCK/418c48b5b5578d18c47f31cefcaedc04/American_Vogue__June_1966.jpg)
Andy Warhol
Camouflage 409, 1987
![Andy warhol camouflage 409 1987](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5q00NewQDuMuSYcYiSgWg8/fa462cd0a42b97688eb794e7a3827193/Andy_Warhol__Camouflage_409__1987.png)
Shiro Kuramata
Miss Blanche Chair, 1988
![Shiro kuramata miss blanche chair 1988](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/2M8WjEJ6JWCwgeYUQYuuYI/c6f851c26e34650061012ac9803505b6/Shiro_Kuramata__Miss_Blanche_Chair__1988.png)
Sheila Hicks
Six Soft Stones, silk, wool, linen, monofilament, mohair, nylon, cotton, garments - wrapped, 1997
![Sheila hicks six soft stones silk wool linen monofilament mohair nylon cotton garments wrapped 1997](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5lei2ZfqZUWaCu0qWaECcA/df34e28e7b17334cf615d7fac7b7bc5c/Sheila_Hicks__Six_Soft_Stones__silk__wool__linen__monofilament__mohair__nylon__cotton__garments_-_wrapped__1997.jpg)
Rudi Gernreich
Animal print suit, 1960s
![Rudi gernreich animal print suit 1960s](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/1kOE4QgutagaWqQ8icKmcQ/9e4d39e68528499737207a0e3551425a/Rudi_Gernreich_Animal_print_suit__1960s.gif)
Tom Wesselmann
Great American Nude #94, 1967
![Tom wesselmann great american nude 94 1967](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/1c81EKLWLwA8m8kKqWiY0a/b4f935a05893ca36b2c71d6d65a54902/Tom_Wesselmann_Great_American_Nude__94__1967.jpg)
Andy Warhol
Flowers, 1964-1965
![Andy warhol flowers](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6CLpmnbTgI0qWcmgeAeQ4m/ec3aae5d013e05b50846b18943e79c1a/Andy_Warhol__Flowers.jpg)
Arata Isozaki
Team Disney Building. Florida, 1990
![Arata isozaki team disney building. florida 1990](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/21eWQCKKtqc6gkOyy4Kcg/852dcbe7fc70625f041fc0b62dd0f137/Arata_Isozaki__Team_Disney_Building._Florida__1990.jpg)
Claes Oldenburg
Leopard Chair, 1963
![Claes oldenburg leopard chair 1963](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3uCHwcHnTyKWQyOue6AYMo/fa347b1c420a815f6f425d49b7bb9b16/Claes_Oldenburg__Leopard_Chair__1963.jpg)
Emanuel Ungaro
Spring/Summer 1991 Couture
![Emanuel ungaro spring summer 1991 couture](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6PgsgxEBywcgGyE6Qiyq8K/4cbed22b41cc394e5ad67a78aea2bab7/Emanuel_Ungaro__Spring_Summer_1991_Couture.jpg)
James Lee Byars
Untitled Photograph (Dress for 500; James Lee Byars and 6 Plays at the Architectural League of New York), 1968
![James lee byars untitled photograph dress for 500 do james lee byars and 6 plays at the architectural league of new yor](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/4y3d6Uuq9ykgmQKSwsewgQ/086a7da9ac05fa49618c011080bb0a0a/James_Lee_Byars__untitled_photograph__Dress_for_500__Do__James_Lee_Byars_and_6_Plays_at_the_Architectural_League_of_New_Yor.jpeg)
Lisette Model
Woman in flowered dress, Promenade des Anglais, Riviera, 1937
![Lisette model woman in flowered dress promenade des anglais riviera 1937](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/7098FnNPEWc82miUaEGqMa/0badadb1226c2b914d90432a10d341b5/Lisette_Model__Woman_in_flowered_dress__Promenade_des_Anglais__Riviera__1937.jpg)
Louise Bourgeois
Dressed in pink fur jacket and glitter hat
![Louise bourgeois in a pink fur](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/PxTePJwn0QYu4KomCCym2/2899ec4af5e35b52713f34ce4ce906a2/Louise_Bourgeois_in_a_pink_fur.jpg)
Marc Newson
Coast Dining Chairs, 1992
![Marc newson coast dining chairs 1992](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/4nBNb7o9RYgU6MeeEmm0gK/0f259eff1968471cd46da090481f4fe3/Marc_Newson__Coast_Dining_Chairs__1992.jpg)
Nan Goldin
Misty and Joey at Hornstrasse, Berlin, 1992
![Nan golden misty and joey at hornstrasse berlin 1992](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5RiKbs7Gko4Ie6gYEAqc24/29ac3b7cda36dfe25d7a7ff72fbdef6b/Nan_Golden__Misty_and_Joey_at_Hornstrasse__Berlin__1992.jpg)
Robert Morris
Untitled, 2010
![Robert morris untitled 2010](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/XVzGO8NX0qq4SYoyc4kqA/d7bf39eb73c2cae2e564f4bf2536e863/Robert_Morris__Untitled__2010.jpg)
Shiro Kuramata
Flower Vase #2, 1989
![Shiro kuramata flower vase 2 1989](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/1pSEsxkbDqieCWWGCogmkY/dfc58b46154fe2d0e3bbbc212f394118/Shiro_Kuramata__Flower_Vase__2__1989.png)
Superstudio
Passiflora Lamp, 1966
![Superstudio passiflora lamp 1966](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/53QqHOuIzmocA6GMGae20k/671b1965b6887c58809606cba5ad8982/Superstudio__Passiflora_Lamp__1966.jpg)
References
![American vogue june 1966](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/4Ty3UPyjFuO8EmkyW6cWCK/418c48b5b5578d18c47f31cefcaedc04/American_Vogue__June_1966.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
American Vogue
June 1966
1 of 18
![Andy warhol camouflage 409 1987](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5q00NewQDuMuSYcYiSgWg8/fa462cd0a42b97688eb794e7a3827193/Andy_Warhol__Camouflage_409__1987.png?w=1000&q=70)
Andy Warhol
Camouflage 409, 1987
2 of 18
![Shiro kuramata miss blanche chair 1988](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/2M8WjEJ6JWCwgeYUQYuuYI/c6f851c26e34650061012ac9803505b6/Shiro_Kuramata__Miss_Blanche_Chair__1988.png?w=1000&q=70)
Shiro Kuramata
Miss Blanche Chair, 1988
3 of 18
![Sheila hicks six soft stones silk wool linen monofilament mohair nylon cotton garments wrapped 1997](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5lei2ZfqZUWaCu0qWaECcA/df34e28e7b17334cf615d7fac7b7bc5c/Sheila_Hicks__Six_Soft_Stones__silk__wool__linen__monofilament__mohair__nylon__cotton__garments_-_wrapped__1997.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Sheila Hicks
Six Soft Stones, silk, wool, linen, monofilament, mohair, nylon, cotton, garments - wrapped, 1997
4 of 18
![Rudi gernreich animal print suit 1960s](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/1kOE4QgutagaWqQ8icKmcQ/9e4d39e68528499737207a0e3551425a/Rudi_Gernreich_Animal_print_suit__1960s.gif?w=1000&q=70)
Rudi Gernreich
Animal print suit, 1960s
5 of 18
![Tom wesselmann great american nude 94 1967](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/1c81EKLWLwA8m8kKqWiY0a/b4f935a05893ca36b2c71d6d65a54902/Tom_Wesselmann_Great_American_Nude__94__1967.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Tom Wesselmann
Great American Nude #94, 1967
6 of 18
![Andy warhol flowers](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6CLpmnbTgI0qWcmgeAeQ4m/ec3aae5d013e05b50846b18943e79c1a/Andy_Warhol__Flowers.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Andy Warhol
Flowers, 1964-1965
7 of 18
![Arata isozaki team disney building. florida 1990](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/21eWQCKKtqc6gkOyy4Kcg/852dcbe7fc70625f041fc0b62dd0f137/Arata_Isozaki__Team_Disney_Building._Florida__1990.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Arata Isozaki
Team Disney Building. Florida, 1990
8 of 18
![Claes oldenburg leopard chair 1963](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3uCHwcHnTyKWQyOue6AYMo/fa347b1c420a815f6f425d49b7bb9b16/Claes_Oldenburg__Leopard_Chair__1963.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Claes Oldenburg
Leopard Chair, 1963
9 of 18
![Emanuel ungaro spring summer 1991 couture](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6PgsgxEBywcgGyE6Qiyq8K/4cbed22b41cc394e5ad67a78aea2bab7/Emanuel_Ungaro__Spring_Summer_1991_Couture.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Emanuel Ungaro
Spring/Summer 1991 Couture
10 of 18
![James lee byars untitled photograph dress for 500 do james lee byars and 6 plays at the architectural league of new yor](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/4y3d6Uuq9ykgmQKSwsewgQ/086a7da9ac05fa49618c011080bb0a0a/James_Lee_Byars__untitled_photograph__Dress_for_500__Do__James_Lee_Byars_and_6_Plays_at_the_Architectural_League_of_New_Yor.jpeg?w=1000&q=70)
James Lee Byars
Untitled Photograph (Dress for 500; James Lee Byars and 6 Plays at the Architectural League of New York), 1968
11 of 18
![Lisette model woman in flowered dress promenade des anglais riviera 1937](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/7098FnNPEWc82miUaEGqMa/0badadb1226c2b914d90432a10d341b5/Lisette_Model__Woman_in_flowered_dress__Promenade_des_Anglais__Riviera__1937.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Lisette Model
Woman in flowered dress, Promenade des Anglais, Riviera, 1937
12 of 18
![Louise bourgeois in a pink fur](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/PxTePJwn0QYu4KomCCym2/2899ec4af5e35b52713f34ce4ce906a2/Louise_Bourgeois_in_a_pink_fur.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Louise Bourgeois
Dressed in pink fur jacket and glitter hat
13 of 18
![Marc newson coast dining chairs 1992](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/4nBNb7o9RYgU6MeeEmm0gK/0f259eff1968471cd46da090481f4fe3/Marc_Newson__Coast_Dining_Chairs__1992.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Marc Newson
Coast Dining Chairs, 1992
14 of 18
![Nan golden misty and joey at hornstrasse berlin 1992](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5RiKbs7Gko4Ie6gYEAqc24/29ac3b7cda36dfe25d7a7ff72fbdef6b/Nan_Golden__Misty_and_Joey_at_Hornstrasse__Berlin__1992.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Nan Goldin
Misty and Joey at Hornstrasse, Berlin, 1992
15 of 18
![Robert morris untitled 2010](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/XVzGO8NX0qq4SYoyc4kqA/d7bf39eb73c2cae2e564f4bf2536e863/Robert_Morris__Untitled__2010.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Robert Morris
Untitled, 2010
16 of 18
![Shiro kuramata flower vase 2 1989](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/1pSEsxkbDqieCWWGCogmkY/dfc58b46154fe2d0e3bbbc212f394118/Shiro_Kuramata__Flower_Vase__2__1989.png?w=1000&q=70)
Shiro Kuramata
Flower Vase #2, 1989
17 of 18
![Superstudio passiflora lamp 1966](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/53QqHOuIzmocA6GMGae20k/671b1965b6887c58809606cba5ad8982/Superstudio__Passiflora_Lamp__1966.jpg?w=1000&q=70)