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Comme des Garçons F/W 2012

Art / Architecture / Design / Fashion

In quintessential Kawakubo fashion, the Japanese designer took Comme des Garcons’s Fall/Winter 2012 collection as an opportunity to twist convention, turning the idea of ‘flatness’ into an opportunity to explore exaggerated silhouettes, volume, and dimension.


Posted December 9th, 2018 By Colby Mugrabi

The show began devoid of a soundtrack, save for the pitter-patter of velvety, high-heeled oxfords clicking down the runway.

Opening the collection, a set of candy colored, felted coats assembled in bright red, bubblegum pink, and electric blue, evoking a palette of bold simplicity. Graphics and patterns followed suit, as a slew of likeminded, felted ensembles covered in pop art camouflage, cheetah prints, polka-dots, and oversized hand-drawn flowers represented the progression of an idea on form, now with embellishment. Flowers were repeated throughout the collection, employed in a multiplicity of formats and mediums, while geometric cutouts added sensuality and dimension to the massive garments which otherwise overwhelmed the models’ tiny frames.

The collection had a paper-doll feel to it, playful by anyone’s standard – particularly that of Kawakubo – while the show’s lighthearted tonality was counterbalanced by the models’ robotic, emotionless movements, as the oversized garments hung on their bodies in rigid uniformity. Mid-show, a series of floral looks emerged entirely covering the body, from ankles to the top-of-head – matching floral masks included.

The later half of the show was a true embodiment of Kawakubo’s signature peculiarities; head-to-toe floral numbers accessorized with complimentary face-coverings, and coats with jagged collars and distorted, sharp arms, endearingly reminiscent of a child cutting and pasting pieces together. The collection concisely came to a head in the last five looks of the show; sequined, oversized doll dresses baring accentuated waists and outrageously rounded hips – an avant-garde interpretation of childhood

Cdg fw 2012 muse board
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References

American Vogue

June 1966

American vogue  june 1966

Andy Warhol

Camouflage 409, 1987

Andy warhol  camouflage 409  1987

Shiro Kuramata

Miss Blanche Chair, 1988

Shiro kuramata  miss blanche chair  1988

Sheila Hicks

Six Soft Stones, silk, wool, linen, monofilament, mohair, nylon, cotton, garments - wrapped, 1997

Sheila hicks  six soft stones  silk  wool  linen  monofilament  mohair  nylon  cotton  garments   wrapped  1997

Rudi Gernreich

Animal print suit, 1960s

Rudi gernreich animal print suit  1960s

Tom Wesselmann

Great American Nude #94, 1967

Tom wesselmann great american nude  94  1967

Andy Warhol

Flowers, 1964-1965

Andy warhol  flowers

Arata Isozaki

Team Disney Building. Florida, 1990

Arata isozaki  team disney building. florida  1990

Claes Oldenburg

Leopard Chair, 1963

Claes oldenburg  leopard chair  1963

Emanuel Ungaro

Spring/Summer 1991 Couture

Emanuel ungaro  spring summer 1991 couture

James Lee Byars

Untitled Photograph (Dress for 500; James Lee Byars and 6 Plays at the Architectural League of New York), 1968

James lee byars  untitled photograph  dress for 500  do  james lee byars and 6 plays at the architectural league of new yor

Lisette Model

Woman in flowered dress, Promenade des Anglais, Riviera, 1937

Lisette model  woman in flowered dress  promenade des anglais  riviera  1937

Louise Bourgeois

Dressed in pink fur jacket and glitter hat

Louise bourgeois in a pink fur

Marc Newson

Coast Dining Chairs, 1992

Marc newson  coast dining chairs  1992

Nan Goldin

Misty and Joey at Hornstrasse, Berlin, 1992

Nan golden  misty and joey at hornstrasse  berlin  1992

Robert Morris

Untitled, 2010

Robert morris  untitled  2010

Shiro Kuramata

Flower Vase #2, 1989

Shiro kuramata  flower vase  2  1989

Superstudio

Passiflora Lamp, 1966

Superstudio  passiflora lamp  1966
References
American vogue  june 1966

American Vogue

June 1966

1 of 18

Andy warhol  camouflage 409  1987

Andy Warhol

Camouflage 409, 1987

2 of 18

Shiro kuramata  miss blanche chair  1988

Shiro Kuramata

Miss Blanche Chair, 1988

3 of 18

Sheila hicks  six soft stones  silk  wool  linen  monofilament  mohair  nylon  cotton  garments   wrapped  1997

Sheila Hicks

Six Soft Stones, silk, wool, linen, monofilament, mohair, nylon, cotton, garments - wrapped, 1997

4 of 18

Rudi gernreich animal print suit  1960s

Rudi Gernreich

Animal print suit, 1960s

5 of 18

Tom wesselmann great american nude  94  1967

Tom Wesselmann

Great American Nude #94, 1967

6 of 18

Andy warhol  flowers

Andy Warhol

Flowers, 1964-1965

7 of 18

Arata isozaki  team disney building. florida  1990

Arata Isozaki

Team Disney Building. Florida, 1990

8 of 18

Claes oldenburg  leopard chair  1963

Claes Oldenburg

Leopard Chair, 1963

9 of 18

Emanuel ungaro  spring summer 1991 couture

Emanuel Ungaro

Spring/Summer 1991 Couture

10 of 18

James lee byars  untitled photograph  dress for 500  do  james lee byars and 6 plays at the architectural league of new yor

James Lee Byars

Untitled Photograph (Dress for 500; James Lee Byars and 6 Plays at the Architectural League of New York), 1968

11 of 18

Lisette model  woman in flowered dress  promenade des anglais  riviera  1937

Lisette Model

Woman in flowered dress, Promenade des Anglais, Riviera, 1937

12 of 18

Louise bourgeois in a pink fur

Louise Bourgeois

Dressed in pink fur jacket and glitter hat

13 of 18

Marc newson  coast dining chairs  1992

Marc Newson

Coast Dining Chairs, 1992

14 of 18

Nan golden  misty and joey at hornstrasse  berlin  1992

Nan Goldin

Misty and Joey at Hornstrasse, Berlin, 1992

15 of 18

Robert morris  untitled  2010

Robert Morris

Untitled, 2010

16 of 18

Shiro kuramata  flower vase  2  1989

Shiro Kuramata

Flower Vase #2, 1989

17 of 18

Superstudio  passiflora lamp  1966

Superstudio

Passiflora Lamp, 1966

18 of 18


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