Since assuming the creative reins of Gucci in 2015, designer Alessandro Michele has traveled the globe, staging shows in New York City, London, Florence, Arles, and at the Le Palace theatre in Paris, but for the brand’s Fall/Winter 2019 collection, Michele returned home to Milan to escape from reality and reinvent the masked disguise. Invitations took the form of paper-mache masks depicting Hermaphroditus – the two-sexed child of Aphrodite and Hermes in ancient Greek mythology – a logical precursor to a collection centered on social identity and disguise.
The show’s capacious setting was staged with floor to ceiling mirrors, dotted with more than 120,000 LED light bulbs. As intense music and war drums blared through the speakers, models paraded down the 100-meter long, elliptical-shaped runway, donning leather and plastic masks, surrealist jewelry, animal-inspired headpieces, and a slew of accessories further emphasizing themes of shielding and protection. As Michele explained in post-show interviews, “A mask is hollow but also full. It conceals and reveals; it’s a defense and a welcome sign.”
In keeping with the season’s focus on high fashion means of defense, accessories were also realized as protective gear, such as visor hats, eye patches, Gucci-branded shin guards and knee pads, and spiked medieval-looking chokers inspired by 16th and 17th-century collars the designer once spotted at auction.
Despite a keenness for anonymity and disguise, the 87-look collection read more like a ‘best of’ Gucci, chalk full of Michele’s quintessentially out-there idiosyncrasies. Oversized glasses, argyle sweaters, boxy suiting and vintage ties were aplenty, as were floral brocades, statement outerwear, houndstooth textiles, and Victorian-era references. Contradiction was also an evident dialogue, as fierce leather looks were styled with colorful lace tights, followed by a myriad of soft florals and Pierrot collar dresses bearing raw edges and unfinished hemlines.
As the show concluded and the kaleidoscope of techno lights dimmed, Michele’s primary objective of the collection was most fully realized, having offered a cacophony of elaborate designs with ambiguous undertones which ultimately gave the audience far more to think about than merely the season’s trends.
![Gucci fw 2019 muse board](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/18pgbCK3vqxshuqJqbKgJw/f092517bfe52a3837b05d2025e03f803/Gucci_FW_2019_Muse_Board.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
References
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Appartement of Francois and Betty Catroux
1970s
![Appartement of francois and betty catroux](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/9OmlMNYDEll0Tp6GGQDST/e18b9d85d1015f28b0f4b1e77555a1ca/Appartement_of_Francois_and_Betty_Catroux.jpg)
Philippe Parreno
Danny La Rue, 2015
![Philippe parreno danny la rue h n y p n y osis 2015](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/wFe9siSyQ5eF8ZwSMI6I6/01dd76af89810ecc7ddec54915786fbe/Philippe_Parreno__Danny_La_Rue___H__N_Y_P_N_Y__OSIS_2015.jpg)
Irving Penn
Bedside Lamp, New York, 2006
![Irving penn bedside lamp new york 2006](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/25edcZKnu5sb7S3vz0BqPb/648c9da395878cdd85b3d2d07383db45/Irving_Penn__Bedside_Lamp__New_York__2006_.jpg)
Man Ray
Juliet in Stocking Mask, 1945
Salvador Dali
Telephone Ear Clips, 1949
![Salvador dali telephone ear clips 1949](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/28mv1khaSeedNFSpU0I5gG/e8455de26c12524d75ac8d1041fca7c8/Salvador_Dali__Telephone_Ear_Clips__1949.jpg)
Yves Saint Laurent and Claude Lalanne
Fall/Winter 1969 Couture
![Yves saint laurent and claude lalanne fall winter 1969 couture](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/Nm41F4YpvO2zhtTCpWRNI/536c52fc4b3dccf1a7b342a06c44a07e/Yves_Saint_Laurent_and_Claude_Lalanne__Fall_Winter_1969_Couture.jpg)
Mode Lunette de Soleil
1969
![1969 monotone moods mode mode 1960 et lunettes](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3k1wMVNqSO4CREE2q0gGw1/3d4b95e242da7ac77ada6a48398c69a9/1969___Monotone_Moods___Mode__Mode_1960_et_Lunettes.jpg)
Bruce Nauman
Double Poke in the Eye II, 1985
![Bruce nauman double poke in the eye ii 1985](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/451M0X6JU9zrXR6mVbdYjx/dd39afcd4065bfff35bd108c3a011233/Bruce_Nauman__Double_Poke_in_the_Eye_II__1985.jpg)
Carlo Mollino
Casa Devalle, Turin, Italy, 1939-40
![Carlo mollino casa devalle turin italy. 1939 40](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/1r2Ud05YCKXynEFhE9E6Ir/ff5e2b5956accbf52ccce2fc6deb4a57/Carlo_Mollino__Casa_Devalle__Turin__Italy._1939-40.jpg)
David Hicks
Manhattan Bedroom, 1971
![David hicks manhattan bedroom 1971](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6HDa4MyKtqluck9BkPHHOs/917d1113885b5a1e471caf5b27b346aa/David_Hicks__Manhattan_Bedroom__1971.jpg)
Emanuel Ungaro
Top, photographed by Peter Knapp for Marie Claire, March 1972
![Emanuel ungaro marie claire march 1972 photographed by peter knapp](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3zRg9KbbBGZzY3vDVIc9F4/f2c1808a5b834cd9ae9f84d42d5b9d4c/Emanuel_Ungaro_Marie_Claire__March_1972_Photographed_by_Peter_Knapp.jpg)
Evelyn Hofer
Four Young Men, Washington, 1975
![Evelyn hofer four young men washington 1975](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3X8i2e3rOPrbiQMIefJkJX/12e8ebaedabbb29b296781f129495869/Evelyn_Hofer__Four_Young_Men__Washington__1975.jpg)
Ezra Stoller
Lincoln Center, 1964-67
![Ezra stoller lincoln center shot c.1964 1967 printed 1964 1967](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/U8zeeMmp3SVHJDttAcQV7/bef481e59d9f31c81da770aa872a27fa/Ezra_Stoller__Lincoln_Center__Shot_c.1964_1967_Printed_1964_1967.jpg)
Jason Rhoades
Neon, 1994-06
![Jason rhoades neon](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6q2MvUM1vgoeqBGvNzoEXG/addd4978798782f05a3ca66cac07f966/Jason_Rhoades__Neon.jpg)
Jean Paul Gaultier
Spring/Summer 1990
![Jean paul gaultier spring summer 1990](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/4Qs9RiWe4Enu2ufrOlJtMx/f47a0a7c0db32389353216b19284af9c/Jean_Paul_Gaultier__Spring_Summer_1990.jpg)
John Holmes
(Cover Art), The-Shuttered Room, 1973
![John holmes cover art the shuttered room 1973](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5Sg2nMvkjcV8yrSkxlEPlX/0d443dcd5f91704c84fd2b6bda5e959e/John_Holmes__Cover_Art___The-Shuttered_Room_1973.jpg)
Robert Mapplethorpe
Leather Mask, 1980
![Leather mask robert mapplethorpe american 1946 1989 negative 1980](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/7GuIi3AhYVVUZmxowDopZ5/f03a0b4cc90571b714c7cef148cfe6fb/Leather_Mask__Robert_Mapplethorpe__American__1946_-_1989___negative_1980_.jpg)
Man Ray
Optic Topic Mask in Gilt Silver, 1974
![Man ray optic topic mask in gilt silver 1974](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6BrKu00ObwuF77k8atunod/2eb90e4726db6039154459c57968b82a/Man_Ray_____Optic_Topic____Mask_in_Gilt_Silver__1974.jpg)
Meret Oppenheim
Giacometti's Ear, 1933
![Meret oppenheim giacometti s ear 1933](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/ky1d3o8ZgR5vi1kQCQQgB/926083ce695755834e2ea912c4c44a61/Meret_Oppenheim__Giacometti_s_Ear__1933.jpg)
Pablo Picasso
Acrobat and Young Harlequin, 1905
![Pablo picasso acrobat and young harlequin 1905](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/jkquHDmEkxvsVy3vGmb1I/58f87f026a01570403639439e852abdf/Pablo_Picasso__Acrobat_and_young_Harlequin__1905.jpeg)
Prada
Spring/Summer 2011
![Prada spring summer 2011](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/IdgmzF8iRplcPctdYzci3/5c86c47e0747dd0690e40b4c5901cb29/Prada_Spring_Summer_2011.jpg)
Sory Sanlé
Les Gentlemen de Cocody, 1978
![Sory sanle les gentlemen de cocody 1978](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/4A32SQJBz3J4ZCc8QXuCwy/8644e9cf02a017fe36b3f92b99e37008/Sory_Sanle____Les_Gentlemen_de_Cocody__1978.jpg)
Susanna Lewis
Oz Socks, 1978
![Susanna lewis oz socks 1978](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/1z7gsXt6jcx7QTMV0o9zuZ/75a5e587f86248ce4d17fd5ab927fcd8/Susanna_Lewis_Oz_Socks_1978.png)
Willy Rizzo
Interior, 1970s
![Willy rizzo interior](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/1Rp0qcYXFDJ94cm8wlU7oz/acdeaa7749432311e5343da4b7248abd/Willy_Rizzo_Interior.jpg)
References
![Appartement of francois and betty catroux](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/9OmlMNYDEll0Tp6GGQDST/e18b9d85d1015f28b0f4b1e77555a1ca/Appartement_of_Francois_and_Betty_Catroux.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Appartement of Francois and Betty Catroux
1970s
1 of 24
![Philippe parreno danny la rue h n y p n y osis 2015](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/wFe9siSyQ5eF8ZwSMI6I6/01dd76af89810ecc7ddec54915786fbe/Philippe_Parreno__Danny_La_Rue___H__N_Y_P_N_Y__OSIS_2015.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Philippe Parreno
Danny La Rue, 2015
2 of 24
![Irving penn bedside lamp new york 2006](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/25edcZKnu5sb7S3vz0BqPb/648c9da395878cdd85b3d2d07383db45/Irving_Penn__Bedside_Lamp__New_York__2006_.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Irving Penn
Bedside Lamp, New York, 2006
3 of 24
Man Ray
Juliet in Stocking Mask, 1945
4 of 24
![Salvador dali telephone ear clips 1949](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/28mv1khaSeedNFSpU0I5gG/e8455de26c12524d75ac8d1041fca7c8/Salvador_Dali__Telephone_Ear_Clips__1949.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Salvador Dali
Telephone Ear Clips, 1949
5 of 24
![Yves saint laurent and claude lalanne fall winter 1969 couture](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/Nm41F4YpvO2zhtTCpWRNI/536c52fc4b3dccf1a7b342a06c44a07e/Yves_Saint_Laurent_and_Claude_Lalanne__Fall_Winter_1969_Couture.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Yves Saint Laurent and Claude Lalanne
Fall/Winter 1969 Couture
6 of 24
![1969 monotone moods mode mode 1960 et lunettes](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3k1wMVNqSO4CREE2q0gGw1/3d4b95e242da7ac77ada6a48398c69a9/1969___Monotone_Moods___Mode__Mode_1960_et_Lunettes.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Mode Lunette de Soleil
1969
7 of 24
![Bruce nauman double poke in the eye ii 1985](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/451M0X6JU9zrXR6mVbdYjx/dd39afcd4065bfff35bd108c3a011233/Bruce_Nauman__Double_Poke_in_the_Eye_II__1985.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Bruce Nauman
Double Poke in the Eye II, 1985
8 of 24
![Carlo mollino casa devalle turin italy. 1939 40](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/1r2Ud05YCKXynEFhE9E6Ir/ff5e2b5956accbf52ccce2fc6deb4a57/Carlo_Mollino__Casa_Devalle__Turin__Italy._1939-40.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Carlo Mollino
Casa Devalle, Turin, Italy, 1939-40
9 of 24
![David hicks manhattan bedroom 1971](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6HDa4MyKtqluck9BkPHHOs/917d1113885b5a1e471caf5b27b346aa/David_Hicks__Manhattan_Bedroom__1971.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
David Hicks
Manhattan Bedroom, 1971
10 of 24
![Emanuel ungaro marie claire march 1972 photographed by peter knapp](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3zRg9KbbBGZzY3vDVIc9F4/f2c1808a5b834cd9ae9f84d42d5b9d4c/Emanuel_Ungaro_Marie_Claire__March_1972_Photographed_by_Peter_Knapp.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Emanuel Ungaro
Top, photographed by Peter Knapp for Marie Claire, March 1972
11 of 24
![Evelyn hofer four young men washington 1975](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3X8i2e3rOPrbiQMIefJkJX/12e8ebaedabbb29b296781f129495869/Evelyn_Hofer__Four_Young_Men__Washington__1975.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Evelyn Hofer
Four Young Men, Washington, 1975
12 of 24
![Ezra stoller lincoln center shot c.1964 1967 printed 1964 1967](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/U8zeeMmp3SVHJDttAcQV7/bef481e59d9f31c81da770aa872a27fa/Ezra_Stoller__Lincoln_Center__Shot_c.1964_1967_Printed_1964_1967.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Ezra Stoller
Lincoln Center, 1964-67
13 of 24
![Jason rhoades neon](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6q2MvUM1vgoeqBGvNzoEXG/addd4978798782f05a3ca66cac07f966/Jason_Rhoades__Neon.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Jason Rhoades
Neon, 1994-06
14 of 24
![Jean paul gaultier spring summer 1990](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/4Qs9RiWe4Enu2ufrOlJtMx/f47a0a7c0db32389353216b19284af9c/Jean_Paul_Gaultier__Spring_Summer_1990.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Jean Paul Gaultier
Spring/Summer 1990
15 of 24
![John holmes cover art the shuttered room 1973](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5Sg2nMvkjcV8yrSkxlEPlX/0d443dcd5f91704c84fd2b6bda5e959e/John_Holmes__Cover_Art___The-Shuttered_Room_1973.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
John Holmes
(Cover Art), The-Shuttered Room, 1973
16 of 24
![Leather mask robert mapplethorpe american 1946 1989 negative 1980](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/7GuIi3AhYVVUZmxowDopZ5/f03a0b4cc90571b714c7cef148cfe6fb/Leather_Mask__Robert_Mapplethorpe__American__1946_-_1989___negative_1980_.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Robert Mapplethorpe
Leather Mask, 1980
17 of 24
![Man ray optic topic mask in gilt silver 1974](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6BrKu00ObwuF77k8atunod/2eb90e4726db6039154459c57968b82a/Man_Ray_____Optic_Topic____Mask_in_Gilt_Silver__1974.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Man Ray
Optic Topic Mask in Gilt Silver, 1974
18 of 24
![Meret oppenheim giacometti s ear 1933](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/ky1d3o8ZgR5vi1kQCQQgB/926083ce695755834e2ea912c4c44a61/Meret_Oppenheim__Giacometti_s_Ear__1933.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Meret Oppenheim
Giacometti's Ear, 1933
19 of 24
![Pablo picasso acrobat and young harlequin 1905](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/jkquHDmEkxvsVy3vGmb1I/58f87f026a01570403639439e852abdf/Pablo_Picasso__Acrobat_and_young_Harlequin__1905.jpeg?w=1000&q=70)
Pablo Picasso
Acrobat and Young Harlequin, 1905
20 of 24
![Prada spring summer 2011](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/IdgmzF8iRplcPctdYzci3/5c86c47e0747dd0690e40b4c5901cb29/Prada_Spring_Summer_2011.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Prada
Spring/Summer 2011
21 of 24
![Sory sanle les gentlemen de cocody 1978](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/4A32SQJBz3J4ZCc8QXuCwy/8644e9cf02a017fe36b3f92b99e37008/Sory_Sanle____Les_Gentlemen_de_Cocody__1978.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Sory Sanlé
Les Gentlemen de Cocody, 1978
22 of 24
![Susanna lewis oz socks 1978](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/1z7gsXt6jcx7QTMV0o9zuZ/75a5e587f86248ce4d17fd5ab927fcd8/Susanna_Lewis_Oz_Socks_1978.png?w=1000&q=70)
Susanna Lewis
Oz Socks, 1978
23 of 24
![Willy rizzo interior](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/1Rp0qcYXFDJ94cm8wlU7oz/acdeaa7749432311e5343da4b7248abd/Willy_Rizzo_Interior.jpg?w=1000&q=70)