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Gucci F/W 2019

Art / Architecture / Design / Fashion

Since assuming the creative reins of Gucci in 2015, designer Alessandro Michele has traveled the globe, staging shows in New York City, London, Florence, Arles, and at the Le Palace theatre in Paris, but for the brand’s Fall/Winter 2019 collection, Michele returned home to Milan to escape from reality and reinvent the masked disguise. Invitations took the form of paper-mache masks depicting Hermaphroditus – the two-sexed child of Aphrodite and Hermes in ancient Greek mythology – a logical precursor to a collection centered on social identity and disguise.


Posted September 15th, 2019 By Colby Mugrabi

The show’s capacious setting was staged with floor to ceiling mirrors, dotted with more than 120,000 LED light bulbs. As intense music and war drums blared through the speakers, models paraded down the 100-meter long, elliptical-shaped runway, donning leather and plastic masks, surrealist jewelry, animal-inspired headpieces, and a slew of accessories further emphasizing themes of shielding and protection. As Michele explained in post-show interviews, “A mask is hollow but also full. It conceals and reveals; it’s a defense and a welcome sign.”

In keeping with the season’s focus on high fashion means of defense, accessories were also realized as protective gear, such as visor hats, eye patches, Gucci-branded shin guards and knee pads, and spiked medieval-looking chokers inspired by 16th and 17th-century collars the designer once spotted at auction.

Despite a keenness for anonymity and disguise, the 87-look collection read more like a ‘best of’ Gucci, chalk full of Michele’s quintessentially out-there idiosyncrasies. Oversized glasses, argyle sweaters, boxy suiting and vintage ties were aplenty, as were floral brocades, statement outerwear, houndstooth textiles, and Victorian-era references. Contradiction was also an evident dialogue, as fierce leather looks were styled with colorful lace tights, followed by a myriad of soft florals and Pierrot collar dresses bearing raw edges and unfinished hemlines.

As the show concluded and the kaleidoscope of techno lights dimmed, Michele’s primary objective of the collection was most fully realized, having offered a cacophony of elaborate designs with ambiguous undertones which ultimately gave the audience far more to think about than merely the season’s trends.

Gucci fw 2019 muse board
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References

Appartement of Francois and Betty Catroux

1970s

Appartement of francois and betty catroux

Philippe Parreno

Danny La Rue, 2015

Philippe parreno  danny la rue   h  n y p n y  osis 2015

Irving Penn

Bedside Lamp, New York, 2006

Irving penn  bedside lamp  new york  2006

Man Ray

Juliet in Stocking Mask, 1945

Man ray  juliet in stocking mask  1945

Salvador Dali

Telephone Ear Clips, 1949

Salvador dali  telephone ear clips  1949

Yves Saint Laurent and Claude Lalanne

Fall/Winter 1969 Couture

Yves saint laurent and claude lalanne  fall winter 1969 couture

Mode Lunette de Soleil

1969

1969   monotone moods   mode  mode 1960 et lunettes

Bruce Nauman

Double Poke in the Eye II, 1985

Bruce nauman  double poke in the eye ii  1985

Carlo Mollino

Casa Devalle, Turin, Italy, 1939-40

Carlo mollino  casa devalle  turin  italy. 1939 40

David Hicks

Manhattan Bedroom, 1971

David hicks  manhattan bedroom  1971

Emanuel Ungaro

Top, photographed by Peter Knapp for Marie Claire, March 1972

Emanuel ungaro marie claire  march 1972 photographed by peter knapp

Evelyn Hofer

Four Young Men, Washington, 1975

Evelyn hofer  four young men  washington  1975

Ezra Stoller

Lincoln Center, 1964-67

Ezra stoller  lincoln center  shot c.1964 1967 printed 1964 1967

Jason Rhoades

Neon, 1994-06

Jason rhoades  neon

Jean Paul Gaultier

Spring/Summer 1990

Jean paul gaultier  spring summer 1990

John Holmes

(Cover Art), The-Shuttered Room, 1973

John holmes  cover art   the shuttered room 1973

Robert Mapplethorpe

Leather Mask, 1980

Leather mask  robert mapplethorpe  american  1946   1989   negative 1980

Man Ray

Optic Topic Mask in Gilt Silver, 1974

Man ray     optic topic    mask in gilt silver  1974

Meret Oppenheim

Giacometti's Ear, 1933

Meret oppenheim  giacometti s ear  1933

Pablo Picasso

Acrobat and Young Harlequin, 1905

Pablo picasso  acrobat and young harlequin  1905

Prada

Spring/Summer 2011

Prada spring summer 2011

Sory Sanlé

Les Gentlemen de Cocody, 1978

Sory sanle    les gentlemen de cocody  1978

Susanna Lewis

Oz Socks, 1978

Susanna lewis oz socks 1978

Willy Rizzo

Interior, 1970s

Willy rizzo interior
References
Appartement of francois and betty catroux

Appartement of Francois and Betty Catroux

1970s

1 of 24

Philippe parreno  danny la rue   h  n y p n y  osis 2015

Philippe Parreno

Danny La Rue, 2015

2 of 24

Irving penn  bedside lamp  new york  2006

Irving Penn

Bedside Lamp, New York, 2006

3 of 24

Man ray  juliet in stocking mask  1945

Man Ray

Juliet in Stocking Mask, 1945

4 of 24

Salvador dali  telephone ear clips  1949

Salvador Dali

Telephone Ear Clips, 1949

5 of 24

Yves saint laurent and claude lalanne  fall winter 1969 couture

Yves Saint Laurent and Claude Lalanne

Fall/Winter 1969 Couture

6 of 24

1969   monotone moods   mode  mode 1960 et lunettes

Mode Lunette de Soleil

1969

7 of 24

Bruce nauman  double poke in the eye ii  1985

Bruce Nauman

Double Poke in the Eye II, 1985

8 of 24

Carlo mollino  casa devalle  turin  italy. 1939 40

Carlo Mollino

Casa Devalle, Turin, Italy, 1939-40

9 of 24

David hicks  manhattan bedroom  1971

David Hicks

Manhattan Bedroom, 1971

10 of 24

Emanuel ungaro marie claire  march 1972 photographed by peter knapp

Emanuel Ungaro

Top, photographed by Peter Knapp for Marie Claire, March 1972

11 of 24

Evelyn hofer  four young men  washington  1975

Evelyn Hofer

Four Young Men, Washington, 1975

12 of 24

Ezra stoller  lincoln center  shot c.1964 1967 printed 1964 1967

Ezra Stoller

Lincoln Center, 1964-67

13 of 24

Jason rhoades  neon

Jason Rhoades

Neon, 1994-06

14 of 24

Jean paul gaultier  spring summer 1990

Jean Paul Gaultier

Spring/Summer 1990

15 of 24

John holmes  cover art   the shuttered room 1973

John Holmes

(Cover Art), The-Shuttered Room, 1973

16 of 24

Leather mask  robert mapplethorpe  american  1946   1989   negative 1980

Robert Mapplethorpe

Leather Mask, 1980

17 of 24

Man ray     optic topic    mask in gilt silver  1974

Man Ray

Optic Topic Mask in Gilt Silver, 1974

18 of 24

Meret oppenheim  giacometti s ear  1933

Meret Oppenheim

Giacometti's Ear, 1933

19 of 24

Pablo picasso  acrobat and young harlequin  1905

Pablo Picasso

Acrobat and Young Harlequin, 1905

20 of 24

Prada spring summer 2011

Prada

Spring/Summer 2011

21 of 24

Sory sanle    les gentlemen de cocody  1978

Sory Sanlé

Les Gentlemen de Cocody, 1978

22 of 24

Susanna lewis oz socks 1978

Susanna Lewis

Oz Socks, 1978

23 of 24

Willy rizzo interior

Willy Rizzo

Interior, 1970s

24 of 24


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