Since taking the reigns as creative director of France’s most storied fashion house Louis Vuitton, Nicolas Ghesquière has approached each of the brand’s cruise collections – so far four, in total – as opportunities to transport show-goers to an entirely new world.
From a colorful collection shown in Monaco in 2014, to architecturally significant sites such as John Launder’s Bob Hope House in Palm Springs, to Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer’s Niteroi Contemporary Art Museum in Rio de Janeiro, and most recently the Miho Museum in southeast Kyoto, Japan, designed by I.M. Pei, each cruise collection has been a physical and visual journey, a absolute treat for the senses. While analyzing each show leaves you in a similar headspace to the never-ending chicken or the egg conundrum – was the show site decided upon first and the clothing and accessories designed second? OR, was the show venue chosen after the collection had begun to take shape? – this is only because season after season the two facets fit so harmoniously together.
Though each cruise show contains highlights of their own, a personal favorite of the four in focus was Ghesquière’s show for cruise 2016, held at the John Lautner-designed Bob Hope House in Palm Springs, California (also mentioned here). In this case, the setting’s iconic architecture played to a much broader design narrative, which intertwined incredibly well with the season’s clothing, shoes and accessories. First, Lautner’s unorthodox use of shapes and materials – the house’s mammoth, rounded roof of poured concrete and curved rectangular panels of glass, for example – were echoed in Ghesquière’s unorthodox design pairings, formal wear worn with desert boots, tailored jackets in shiny neoprene and tiny trunks paired with matching purses. Proportions tended to err on the side of exaggerated, seen in the show’s countless maxi-skirts and super short shorts, while Ghesquière expanded on some newly developed codes of the French house, all while incorporating classic design touches through the use of iconic patterns and materials; a perfect marriage of the past, present and future of design, only to be seen through the creative eyes of Nicolas Ghesquière.

References
- 1
- 2
Andrea Branzi for Zabro
Chair, 1986

Jeanne Lanvin
Concerto Evening Gown, 1934-35

Interior image of the Bavinger House by architect Bruce Goff
1955, Norman, Oklahoma

Frank Lloyd Wright
Design for Theatre Curtain, Hillside Theatre, Taliesin Spring Green, Wisconsin,1952

Carol Bove
Strawberries Need Rain, 2003

Adalberto Libera
Villa Malaparte, 1938, Capri, Italy

Paul T. Frankl
Skyscraper Vanity, 1930

Diane Arbus
Headless Woman, N.Y.C. 1961
Imogen Cunningham
Junk, 1931

Andrea Branzi
Intrecci 1, 2006

Jean Dunand & Jean Goulden
A Unique Black and Polychrome Lacquered Cabinet, 1921

Jean Dunand
Vase, 1925

Luigi Russolo
The Revolt (La rivolta), 1911

Marcel Duchamp
The Brawl at Austerlitz, 1921

Maxime Du Camp
Abu Simbel, 1850

Piet Zwart
Cabbage with Hoarfrost, 1930

Richard Artschwager
Untitled, 1988

Charlotte Perriand and Pierre Jeanneret
Refuge Tonneau, 1938

Mario Botta
Seconda Armchair, 1982

Sigmar Polke
Alice in Wonderland (Alice in Wunderland), 1972

Bruce Goff
Struckus House, 1979, Woodland Hills, California

References

Andrea Branzi for Zabro
Chair, 1986
1 of 21

Jeanne Lanvin
Concerto Evening Gown, 1934-35
2 of 21

Interior image of the Bavinger House by architect Bruce Goff
1955, Norman, Oklahoma
3 of 21

Frank Lloyd Wright
Design for Theatre Curtain, Hillside Theatre, Taliesin Spring Green, Wisconsin,1952
4 of 21

Carol Bove
Strawberries Need Rain, 2003
5 of 21

Adalberto Libera
Villa Malaparte, 1938, Capri, Italy
6 of 21

Paul T. Frankl
Skyscraper Vanity, 1930
7 of 21
Diane Arbus
Headless Woman, N.Y.C. 1961
8 of 21

Imogen Cunningham
Junk, 1931
9 of 21

Andrea Branzi
Intrecci 1, 2006
10 of 21

Jean Dunand & Jean Goulden
A Unique Black and Polychrome Lacquered Cabinet, 1921
11 of 21

Jean Dunand
Vase, 1925
12 of 21

Luigi Russolo
The Revolt (La rivolta), 1911
13 of 21

Marcel Duchamp
The Brawl at Austerlitz, 1921
14 of 21

Maxime Du Camp
Abu Simbel, 1850
15 of 21

Piet Zwart
Cabbage with Hoarfrost, 1930
16 of 21

Richard Artschwager
Untitled, 1988
17 of 21

Charlotte Perriand and Pierre Jeanneret
Refuge Tonneau, 1938
18 of 21

Mario Botta
Seconda Armchair, 1982
19 of 21

Sigmar Polke
Alice in Wonderland (Alice in Wunderland), 1972
20 of 21
