It is evident through the methodically selected locations of Louis Vuitton’s far off cruise shows that creative director Nicolas Ghesquière fancies himself not only a designer, but somewhat of an architecture connoisseur. From Bob Hope’s John Lautner-designed home in Palm Springs to Oscar Niemeyer’s Niterói Contemporary Art Museum in Rio, and the Foundation Maeght in Saint-Paul-de-Vence, the destination of Vuitton’s forthcoming cruise show on May 28th, Ghesquière’s highly intentional location selects are indicative each season of the collection’s focus.
In the case of resort 2018, the designer opted for I. M. Pei’s Miho Museum, perched atop a forested landscape just south of Kyoto, Japan. While Ghesquière has been traveling to the Far East for decades, and often pays homage to elements of Japanese culture within his designs, the synergy this particular season between the show’s setting and the collection’s garments was layered with purpose and meaning.
While conspicuous cultural references were present in the model’s Kabuki-inspired makeup and the garments and accessories designed in collaboration with Japanese fashion deity Kansai Yamamoto, the most alluring looks were those with captivating contrasts that mimicked elements of the show’s surroundings. Just as Pei utilized rigid materials and geometric lines to render a serene oasis enveloped by nature, Ghesquière combined striking patterns, luscious textures and commanding silhouettes to create garments of unexpected ease. A standout collection by the French designer, filled with reverence and energy.