Icon close
Muse Boards

Louis Vuitton S/S 2011

Art / Architecture / Design / Fashion

With this year’s Camp-themed Met Gala just months away, Susan Sontag’s 1964 essay “Notes on ‘Camp’” is abuzz amongst the fashion world elite; an apt focus for the industry’s most celebrated annual exhibition considering its deep-rooted influence on countless collections past. Case in point, Marc Jacobs’ Spring/Summer 2011 show for Louis Vuitton, a thorough study of quintessential ‘Camp’ doctrines through its exploration of juxtapositions between good and bad taste.


Posted February 4th, 2019 By Colby Mugrabi

Housed in a circus-like tent situated in the Louvre’s interior courtyard, the surrounding atmosphere was a display of extravagance. As the lights dimmed, beaded cat-print curtains opened to reveal a slew of stuffed tigers perched atop the show’s shiny, faux marbled runway.

With references ranging from 1970s Yves Saint Laurent and the glitzy days of Studio 54, to fashion’s favorite cult film ‘Paris is Burning,’ a documentary exposing New York City’s underground drag culture of the late 80s and early 90s, every element of the 54-look collection was a display of pure decadence. From 1920’s chemise dresses covered in beaded-fringe, accompanied by delicately embellished heels, to ankle-length ensembles knit in glittering Lurex, cinched at the waist with wide, sequined belts.

Jacobs notably sought inspiration from the first-ever Japanese designers to present collections in Paris, as exoticism was explored through odes to orientalism. Traditional Mandarin Cheongsam dresses in shiny black silks and gold lame were embellished with crystals, while fans made of luxuriant lace were shown along matching skirts, which subtly integrated the house’s heritage LV logo.

Boat-necked knit tops sequined with giraffes and pandas drew on the set’s animal theme, as jumpsuits, tailored coats, and floor-length gowns followed suit in tiger-like stripes, while supermodel Kristen McMenamy’s zebra print 'shirt,' hand-painted atop her slim torso by makeup artist Pat McGrath, was the over-the-top type of finale look needed to close such an extravagant show.

With the Susan Sontag quote Jacobs found most inspiring placed upon each show attendee’s seat, reading: “The relation between boredom and camp taste cannot be overestimated. Camp taste is by its nature possible only in affluent societies, in societies or circles capable of experiencing the psychopathology of affluence,” Jacobs’ spring/summer 2011 showing for Louis Vuitton was a pure celebration of excess and cross-cultural inspiration. While the collection certainly embraced elements of ‘Camp’ culture, in true Marc Jacobs fashion, it stood far from boring.

Louis vuitton ss 2011 muse board
Share this Muse Board on
Facebook
Twitter
References

Jean Charles de Castelbajac

Zebra Dress, Fall/ Winter 1986

Jean charles de castelbajac  zebra dress  fall winter 1986

Eileen Gray

Jacques Doucet's Paris Apartment, Late 1920s

Eileen gray  jacques doucet s paris apartment  late 1920 s

Alexander McQueen

Givenchy Haute Couture, Fall/ Winter 1997-98

Givenchy haute couture by alexander mcqueen  fall winter 1997 98 ii

Yves Saint Laurent

Fall/ Winter 1977

Yves saint laurent  fall winter 1977

Zhang Xiaogang

Bloodline - Big Family No 3, 1995

Zhang xiaogang  bloodline   big family no 3  1995

Eileen Gray

Lotus Table, Designed for Jacques Doucet, 1913

Eileen gray  lotus table  designed for jacques doucet  1913

George Jacob Hunzinger

Side Chair, 1860s

George jacob hunzinger  side chair  1860s

Ai Weiwei

'With Wind' Sketch, from @Large, Alcatraz

Ai weiwei   with wind  sketch  from  large  alcatraz

Alexander McQueen

Givenchy Haute Couture, Fall/ Winter 1997-98

Givenchy haute couture by alexander mcqueen  fall winter 1997 98 i

Gustave Miklos

Foot Stool, 1920

Gustave miklos  foot stool  c.1920

Irving Penn

Lily, Melridge, New York , 1971

Irving penn  lily  melridge  new york   1971

Irving Penn

Lily, Imperial Pink, New York, 1971

Irving penn  lily  imperial pink  new york  1971

Man Ray

Mask, 1920s

Man ray  mask  1920s

Mugler

Fall/ Winter 1995 Couture

Mugler  fall winter 1995 couture

Paul Iribe

Commode, 1912

Paul iribe  commode  1912

Yayoi Kusama

Flower Bloomed in My Heart, 2011

Yayoi kusama  flower bloomed in my heart  2011

Pavilion at The Exposition Universelle

Paris, 1889

Pavilion at the exposition universelle of 1889  paris

Victor Vasarely

Zebras, 1937

Victor vasarely  zebras  1937

Yves Saint Laurent at the 'Opium' Perfume Launch Party

1977

Yves saint laurent at the 1977  opium  perfume launch party

Yves Saint Laurent

Fall/ Winter 1977-78

Yves saint laurent  fall winter 1977 78
References
Jean charles de castelbajac  zebra dress  fall winter 1986

Jean Charles de Castelbajac

Zebra Dress, Fall/ Winter 1986

1 of 20

Eileen gray  jacques doucet s paris apartment  late 1920 s

Eileen Gray

Jacques Doucet's Paris Apartment, Late 1920s

2 of 20

Givenchy haute couture by alexander mcqueen  fall winter 1997 98 ii

Alexander McQueen

Givenchy Haute Couture, Fall/ Winter 1997-98

3 of 20

Yves saint laurent  fall winter 1977

Yves Saint Laurent

Fall/ Winter 1977

4 of 20

Zhang xiaogang  bloodline   big family no 3  1995

Zhang Xiaogang

Bloodline - Big Family No 3, 1995

5 of 20

Eileen gray  lotus table  designed for jacques doucet  1913

Eileen Gray

Lotus Table, Designed for Jacques Doucet, 1913

6 of 20

George jacob hunzinger  side chair  1860s

George Jacob Hunzinger

Side Chair, 1860s

7 of 20

Ai weiwei   with wind  sketch  from  large  alcatraz

Ai Weiwei

'With Wind' Sketch, from @Large, Alcatraz

8 of 20

Givenchy haute couture by alexander mcqueen  fall winter 1997 98 i

Alexander McQueen

Givenchy Haute Couture, Fall/ Winter 1997-98

9 of 20

Gustave miklos  foot stool  c.1920

Gustave Miklos

Foot Stool, 1920

10 of 20

Irving penn  lily  melridge  new york   1971

Irving Penn

Lily, Melridge, New York , 1971

11 of 20

Irving penn  lily  imperial pink  new york  1971

Irving Penn

Lily, Imperial Pink, New York, 1971

12 of 20

Man ray  mask  1920s

Man Ray

Mask, 1920s

13 of 20

Mugler  fall winter 1995 couture

Mugler

Fall/ Winter 1995 Couture

14 of 20

Paul iribe  commode  1912

Paul Iribe

Commode, 1912

15 of 20

Yayoi kusama  flower bloomed in my heart  2011

Yayoi Kusama

Flower Bloomed in My Heart, 2011

16 of 20

Pavilion at the exposition universelle of 1889  paris

Pavilion at The Exposition Universelle

Paris, 1889

17 of 20

Victor vasarely  zebras  1937

Victor Vasarely

Zebras, 1937

18 of 20

Yves saint laurent at the 1977  opium  perfume launch party

Yves Saint Laurent at the 'Opium' Perfume Launch Party

1977

19 of 20

Yves saint laurent  fall winter 1977 78

Yves Saint Laurent

Fall/ Winter 1977-78

20 of 20


Additional Articles
02e03e64 dafa 44f4 a7e8 5abf463974ff
Moments

Inside Thom Browne's Archive

Binder1 page 213
Musings

Luna Luna

Mcqueen ss 2005   3 looks
Muse Boards

Alexander McQueen S/S 2005

Image
Musings

Ed Ruscha's Artist Books

Get MinnieMuse straight to your inbox.