With this year’s Camp-themed Met Gala just months away, Susan Sontag’s 1964 essay “Notes on ‘Camp’” is abuzz amongst the fashion world elite; an apt focus for the industry’s most celebrated annual exhibition considering its deep-rooted influence on countless collections past. Case in point, Marc Jacobs’ Spring/Summer 2011 show for Louis Vuitton, a thorough study of quintessential ‘Camp’ doctrines through its exploration of juxtapositions between good and bad taste.
Housed in a circus-like tent situated in the Louvre’s interior courtyard, the surrounding atmosphere was a display of extravagance. As the lights dimmed, beaded cat-print curtains opened to reveal a slew of stuffed tigers perched atop the show’s shiny, faux marbled runway.
With references ranging from 1970s Yves Saint Laurent and the glitzy days of Studio 54, to fashion’s favorite cult film ‘Paris is Burning,’ a documentary exposing New York City’s underground drag culture of the late 80s and early 90s, every element of the 54-look collection was a display of pure decadence. From 1920’s chemise dresses covered in beaded-fringe, accompanied by delicately embellished heels, to ankle-length ensembles knit in glittering Lurex, cinched at the waist with wide, sequined belts.
Jacobs notably sought inspiration from the first-ever Japanese designers to present collections in Paris, as exoticism was explored through odes to orientalism. Traditional Mandarin Cheongsam dresses in shiny black silks and gold lame were embellished with crystals, while fans made of luxuriant lace were shown along matching skirts, which subtly integrated the house’s heritage LV logo.
Boat-necked knit tops sequined with giraffes and pandas drew on the set’s animal theme, as jumpsuits, tailored coats, and floor-length gowns followed suit in tiger-like stripes, while supermodel Kristen McMenamy’s zebra print 'shirt,' hand-painted atop her slim torso by makeup artist Pat McGrath, was the over-the-top type of finale look needed to close such an extravagant show.
With the Susan Sontag quote Jacobs found most inspiring placed upon each show attendee’s seat, reading: “The relation between boredom and camp taste cannot be overestimated. Camp taste is by its nature possible only in affluent societies, in societies or circles capable of experiencing the psychopathology of affluence,” Jacobs’ spring/summer 2011 showing for Louis Vuitton was a pure celebration of excess and cross-cultural inspiration. While the collection certainly embraced elements of ‘Camp’ culture, in true Marc Jacobs fashion, it stood far from boring.
![Louis vuitton ss 2011 muse board](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/7bKtUdMXB3Rkt7D2WKECgM/c963e76839f36f5ed07b171de398e4ad/Louis_Vuitton_SS_2011_Muse_Board.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
References
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Jean Charles de Castelbajac
Zebra Dress, Fall/ Winter 1986
![Jean charles de castelbajac zebra dress fall winter 1986](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/7nI92MUOz90FPVIQscMeOr/9b89570f3b3893c2f6546661642cee13/Jean_Charles_de_Castelbajac__Zebra_Dress__Fall_Winter_1986.png)
Eileen Gray
Jacques Doucet's Paris Apartment, Late 1920s
![Eileen gray jacques doucet s paris apartment late 1920 s](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/1fPQKIcSC6PIE07lT65708/5aa2fc93e9507d69e9c9b921a255bb25/Eileen_Gray__Jacques_Doucet_s_Paris_Apartment__Late_1920_s.jpg)
Alexander McQueen
Givenchy Haute Couture, Fall/ Winter 1997-98
![Givenchy haute couture by alexander mcqueen fall winter 1997 98 ii](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/c6MJb20VXcRpnJmXzHLKI/bfec3ac6d93e8d4dff840ba8c71ced8e/Givenchy_Haute_Couture_by_Alexander_McQueen__Fall_Winter_1997_98_II.jpg)
Yves Saint Laurent
Fall/ Winter 1977
![Yves saint laurent fall winter 1977](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/57dhiy7A4cuZKQDEmHEnQ2/f679b8712049ec9d56b0042592b0bf86/Yves_Saint_Laurent__Fall_Winter_1977.jpg)
Zhang Xiaogang
Bloodline - Big Family No 3, 1995
![Zhang xiaogang bloodline big family no 3 1995](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/NveFOLLsJJsKoZAh3kp66/41f6307373cc314095b5e17847199125/Zhang_Xiaogang__Bloodline_-_Big_Family_No_3__1995.jpg)
Eileen Gray
Lotus Table, Designed for Jacques Doucet, 1913
![Eileen gray lotus table designed for jacques doucet 1913](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/s5KZnWPfNgkSbylD3baLi/10d4fcc97639fdc7a7bb07029bf2422a/Eileen_Gray__Lotus_Table__Designed_for_Jacques_Doucet__1913.png)
George Jacob Hunzinger
Side Chair, 1860s
![George jacob hunzinger side chair 1860s](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5u1rtdaiuEGiz2jmeuv4V7/9101745e6db9738d65e016ee64a3feba/George_Jacob_Hunzinger__Side_Chair__1860s.jpg)
Ai Weiwei
'With Wind' Sketch, from @Large, Alcatraz
![Ai weiwei with wind sketch from large alcatraz](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/327VrBfH7KPoK2PpH7DRYW/9daacd6a7fe630148f42db9de8df6d88/Ai_Weiwei___With_Wind__Sketch__from__Large__Alcatraz.jpg)
Alexander McQueen
Givenchy Haute Couture, Fall/ Winter 1997-98
![Givenchy haute couture by alexander mcqueen fall winter 1997 98 i](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6ELKK26ZRGW7GUCU23eWc6/9e6b866641d4d83e8f2d98a1eb273872/Givenchy_Haute_Couture_by_Alexander_McQueen__Fall_Winter_1997_98_I.jpg)
Gustave Miklos
Foot Stool, 1920
![Gustave miklos foot stool c.1920](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/7KElXOE80tIIJ2sWWsQqCR/0e07c67e232527f917985d8c4bfe6fa0/Gustave_Miklos__Foot_Stool__c.1920.jpg)
Irving Penn
Lily, Melridge, New York , 1971
![Irving penn lily melridge new york 1971](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/4ajWzdRfd4d6leBoTrFbyw/b1383b2c09585c9d1e0b524f1ab03269/Irving_Penn__Lily-_Melridge__New_York___1971.jpg)
Irving Penn
Lily, Imperial Pink, New York, 1971
![Irving penn lily imperial pink new york 1971](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5qZKmO6UcENLhCKDru9lqm/43b6d6210727f03f7fcd439890bb8d0c/Irving_Penn__Lily__Imperial_Pink__New_York__1971.jpg)
Man Ray
Mask, 1920s
![Man ray mask 1920s](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/1jL6STCgglWISqWBGYT6SV/bc7d054d67546ae6ec2105287545b561/Man_Ray__Mask__1920s.jpg)
Mugler
Fall/ Winter 1995 Couture
![Mugler fall winter 1995 couture](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5I2EFIFuqV84L3Wmnadq1b/8d0794824702170f91a63d8f22db3b56/Mugler__Fall_Winter_1995_Couture.png)
Paul Iribe
Commode, 1912
![Paul iribe commode 1912](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6jxePy8Uc7UYreLLtKQGUV/696c1e43404d3a6b7773646df0c2da14/Paul_Iribe__Commode__1912.jpg)
Yayoi Kusama
Flower Bloomed in My Heart, 2011
![Yayoi kusama flower bloomed in my heart 2011](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/2NzfoxYASfuAAUJLLLGl5Z/f15cec4cc0ff3922a1a6b96ec2e2830a/Yayoi_Kusama__Flower_Bloomed_in_My_Heart__2011.jpg)
Pavilion at The Exposition Universelle
Paris, 1889
![Pavilion at the exposition universelle of 1889 paris](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/1TFL9p7NVYzXXtNy8QfDcT/47a4f7c4fcfb802a9f61d9927d40af08/Pavilion_at_The_Exposition_Universelle_of_1889__Paris.jpg)
Victor Vasarely
Zebras, 1937
![Victor vasarely zebras 1937](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6YgNVbtfg1EXnPuVIQDNqR/3d39ff6cf5090f93b3ec19b1f4361a91/Victor_Vasarely__Zebras__1937.jpg)
Yves Saint Laurent at the 'Opium' Perfume Launch Party
1977
![Yves saint laurent at the 1977 opium perfume launch party](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3cBuqYEAHDMJpHkMEMUYQs/1d679036dd23b83964a2fa7baeb39c7f/Yves_Saint_Laurent_at_the_1977__Opium__Perfume_Launch_Party.jpg)
Yves Saint Laurent
Fall/ Winter 1977-78
![Yves saint laurent fall winter 1977 78](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/m0whxyDGRrvSGTmqC9e8j/c86b163b47940eec9c28b91f951d40d2/Yves_Saint_Laurent__Fall_Winter_1977_78.jpg)
References
![Jean charles de castelbajac zebra dress fall winter 1986](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/7nI92MUOz90FPVIQscMeOr/9b89570f3b3893c2f6546661642cee13/Jean_Charles_de_Castelbajac__Zebra_Dress__Fall_Winter_1986.png?w=1000&q=70)
Jean Charles de Castelbajac
Zebra Dress, Fall/ Winter 1986
1 of 20
![Eileen gray jacques doucet s paris apartment late 1920 s](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/1fPQKIcSC6PIE07lT65708/5aa2fc93e9507d69e9c9b921a255bb25/Eileen_Gray__Jacques_Doucet_s_Paris_Apartment__Late_1920_s.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Eileen Gray
Jacques Doucet's Paris Apartment, Late 1920s
2 of 20
![Givenchy haute couture by alexander mcqueen fall winter 1997 98 ii](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/c6MJb20VXcRpnJmXzHLKI/bfec3ac6d93e8d4dff840ba8c71ced8e/Givenchy_Haute_Couture_by_Alexander_McQueen__Fall_Winter_1997_98_II.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Alexander McQueen
Givenchy Haute Couture, Fall/ Winter 1997-98
3 of 20
![Yves saint laurent fall winter 1977](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/57dhiy7A4cuZKQDEmHEnQ2/f679b8712049ec9d56b0042592b0bf86/Yves_Saint_Laurent__Fall_Winter_1977.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Yves Saint Laurent
Fall/ Winter 1977
4 of 20
![Zhang xiaogang bloodline big family no 3 1995](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/NveFOLLsJJsKoZAh3kp66/41f6307373cc314095b5e17847199125/Zhang_Xiaogang__Bloodline_-_Big_Family_No_3__1995.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Zhang Xiaogang
Bloodline - Big Family No 3, 1995
5 of 20
![Eileen gray lotus table designed for jacques doucet 1913](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/s5KZnWPfNgkSbylD3baLi/10d4fcc97639fdc7a7bb07029bf2422a/Eileen_Gray__Lotus_Table__Designed_for_Jacques_Doucet__1913.png?w=1000&q=70)
Eileen Gray
Lotus Table, Designed for Jacques Doucet, 1913
6 of 20
![George jacob hunzinger side chair 1860s](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5u1rtdaiuEGiz2jmeuv4V7/9101745e6db9738d65e016ee64a3feba/George_Jacob_Hunzinger__Side_Chair__1860s.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
George Jacob Hunzinger
Side Chair, 1860s
7 of 20
![Ai weiwei with wind sketch from large alcatraz](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/327VrBfH7KPoK2PpH7DRYW/9daacd6a7fe630148f42db9de8df6d88/Ai_Weiwei___With_Wind__Sketch__from__Large__Alcatraz.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Ai Weiwei
'With Wind' Sketch, from @Large, Alcatraz
8 of 20
![Givenchy haute couture by alexander mcqueen fall winter 1997 98 i](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6ELKK26ZRGW7GUCU23eWc6/9e6b866641d4d83e8f2d98a1eb273872/Givenchy_Haute_Couture_by_Alexander_McQueen__Fall_Winter_1997_98_I.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Alexander McQueen
Givenchy Haute Couture, Fall/ Winter 1997-98
9 of 20
![Gustave miklos foot stool c.1920](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/7KElXOE80tIIJ2sWWsQqCR/0e07c67e232527f917985d8c4bfe6fa0/Gustave_Miklos__Foot_Stool__c.1920.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Gustave Miklos
Foot Stool, 1920
10 of 20
![Irving penn lily melridge new york 1971](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/4ajWzdRfd4d6leBoTrFbyw/b1383b2c09585c9d1e0b524f1ab03269/Irving_Penn__Lily-_Melridge__New_York___1971.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Irving Penn
Lily, Melridge, New York , 1971
11 of 20
![Irving penn lily imperial pink new york 1971](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5qZKmO6UcENLhCKDru9lqm/43b6d6210727f03f7fcd439890bb8d0c/Irving_Penn__Lily__Imperial_Pink__New_York__1971.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Irving Penn
Lily, Imperial Pink, New York, 1971
12 of 20
![Man ray mask 1920s](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/1jL6STCgglWISqWBGYT6SV/bc7d054d67546ae6ec2105287545b561/Man_Ray__Mask__1920s.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Man Ray
Mask, 1920s
13 of 20
![Mugler fall winter 1995 couture](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5I2EFIFuqV84L3Wmnadq1b/8d0794824702170f91a63d8f22db3b56/Mugler__Fall_Winter_1995_Couture.png?w=1000&q=70)
Mugler
Fall/ Winter 1995 Couture
14 of 20
![Paul iribe commode 1912](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6jxePy8Uc7UYreLLtKQGUV/696c1e43404d3a6b7773646df0c2da14/Paul_Iribe__Commode__1912.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Paul Iribe
Commode, 1912
15 of 20
![Yayoi kusama flower bloomed in my heart 2011](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/2NzfoxYASfuAAUJLLLGl5Z/f15cec4cc0ff3922a1a6b96ec2e2830a/Yayoi_Kusama__Flower_Bloomed_in_My_Heart__2011.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Yayoi Kusama
Flower Bloomed in My Heart, 2011
16 of 20
![Pavilion at the exposition universelle of 1889 paris](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/1TFL9p7NVYzXXtNy8QfDcT/47a4f7c4fcfb802a9f61d9927d40af08/Pavilion_at_The_Exposition_Universelle_of_1889__Paris.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Pavilion at The Exposition Universelle
Paris, 1889
17 of 20
![Victor vasarely zebras 1937](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6YgNVbtfg1EXnPuVIQDNqR/3d39ff6cf5090f93b3ec19b1f4361a91/Victor_Vasarely__Zebras__1937.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Victor Vasarely
Zebras, 1937
18 of 20
![Yves saint laurent at the 1977 opium perfume launch party](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3cBuqYEAHDMJpHkMEMUYQs/1d679036dd23b83964a2fa7baeb39c7f/Yves_Saint_Laurent_at_the_1977__Opium__Perfume_Launch_Party.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Yves Saint Laurent at the 'Opium' Perfume Launch Party
1977
19 of 20
![Yves saint laurent fall winter 1977 78](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/m0whxyDGRrvSGTmqC9e8j/c86b163b47940eec9c28b91f951d40d2/Yves_Saint_Laurent__Fall_Winter_1977_78.jpg?w=1000&q=70)