A parade of off-white – no pun intended – tailored looks, layered and styled with unexpected ease, opened Virgil Abloh’s much-anticipated debut at Louis Vuitton menswear.
Abloh’s inspiration for his first collection as creative director of the storied French house began with the study of a phenomenon known as dispersion, denoting the variety of colors refracted at various angles when white light hits a prism, creating an after-effect similar to a rainbow. If the show’s 15 neutral opening looks represented the presence of white light in the collection, this purist creative doctrine gave way to a multitude of colorful ensembles to follow, rendered in deep eggplant, cherry red and shades of teal, with pops of electric yellow and bright orange threaded throughout in surprising ways.
As the industry’s leader in leather goods, it came as no surprise that accessories were given center stage; styled not as useful ‘add-ons’ but as necessary elements to the completion of each look. Vuitton’s traditional travel bags and everyday trunks were rendered in transparent materials and updated versions of the brand’s classic LV monogram, while colorful linked chains further accessorized each accessory, offering an unwavering sense of ‘newness’ and, above all, ‘coolness’. It was Abloh’s study of hybrid garments, however, in the form of holsters, harnesses and zippered vests, that truly epitomized the juxtapositions felt throughout the collection, those between hard and soft, fashion and utility, luxury and street.
If the first half of the show gave respect to purity and color, the latter portion saw the introduction of further elements of inspiration through uniquely fabricated colorful tie-dye garments and an array of prints, namely those in references to the legendary 1939 film, The Wizard of Oz. Hoodies covered with poppy fields incorporated images of Dorothy, the fantasy film’s main protagonist, while brick-printed trouser’s symbolized the tale’s iconic Yellow Brick Road and the show’s standout knitwear displayed a colorful visual of the film’s four main characters.
Devoid of any formal fashion training, Abloh’s omniscient grasp on the pulse of contemporary culture is the skill the Chicago native has most to thank – along with a slew of successful projects and collaborations – for landing him the job as creative director of Louis Vuitton menswear. Like Dorothy in Oz, Abloh’s “Yellow Brick Road” to Vuitton has placed him in a new, somewhat unknown territory to explore. But if his first collection is any indication, he seems to be acclimating just fine.
![Lv ss 2019 mens muse board new](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3PqHRtrjviKSQgaYOm4gEy/96a03858d4d5ff14dd3b8b243416515e/LV_SS_2019_Mens_Muse_Board_NEW.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
References
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Dan Colen
Untitled (Birdshit), 2007
![Dan colen untitled birdshit 2007](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3pQEi0F4rK4yoQU8wY6yuu/e2bdaf9ee6e8cfd3dcfe444275311c96/Dan_Colen__Untitled__Birdshit___2007.jpg)
Plugboard for an IBM 403 implements tax deduction computation
Board courtesy of Carl Claunch, 1950s
![1950s plugboard for an ibm 403 implements tax deduction computation. board courtesy of carl claunch](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6v0WwYQnKgyAUk66gaE6Ca/886365608eac0940d67fe1facad9c65b/1950s_plugboard_for_an_IBM_403_implements_tax_deduction_computation._Board_courtesy_of_Carl_Claunch.jpg)
Robert Mallet Stevens
Villa Paul Poiret, 1924
![Robert mallet stevens villa paul poiret 1924](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/LH7cGCx3m8ywCOeeKoKI4/1459b1a3ee8c4be90b8f1ca09781f313/Robert_Mallet_Stevens__Villa_Paul_Poiret__1924.jpg)
Jim Dine
The Picture of Dorian Gray, 1968
![Jim dine the picture of dorian gray 1968](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/2wj8EXcOm4uqco4cyiaCwU/d44d97e7ab93caf2af53fa101fe8f7b3/Jim_Dine__The_Picture_of_Dorian_Gray__1968.jpg)
The Wizard of Oz
Film still of Dorothy on The Yellow Brick Road, 1939
![4630164 orig](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/EqRZCAFLjM2iwmyGk40Mi/4e20188001ecdc809d71a03dc109c53d/4630164_orig.jpg)
Time Life Books
'Built-ins', 1979
![built ins time life books 1979](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/FDv4LsI1uUSUAcMkIoGSa/b6ab10096f97bb6874af1b748be54cb1/_Built-ins___Time_Life_Books__1979.jpg)
Sterling Ruby
SP51, 2008
![Sterling ruby sp51 2008](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/ZFmiO0VfQQoKWAwcIiYWi/42207fa869e85126d8ead10148339400/Sterling_Ruby__SP51__2008.jpg)
Cory Arcangel
Photoshop CS- 110 by 72 inches, 300 DPI, RGB, square pixels, default gradient “Russell’s Rainbow” (turn transparency off), mousedown y=25300 x=17600, mouseup y=4300 x=17600, 2009
![Cory arcangel photoshop cs 110 by 72 inches 300 dpi rgb square pixels default gradient russell s rainbow tur](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/hy6d06afTygkA46yak4g8/a59e2171779fd09674934e57a3b8a132/Cory_Arcangel_-_Photoshop_CS-_110_by_72_inches__300_DPI__RGB__square_pixels__default_gradient____Russell___s_Rainbow_____tur.jpg)
Flowers and Writing Utensils Between Two Transparent Sheets
1970s
![Flowers and writing utensils between two transparent sheets 1970s](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/Eg5NbtBRzE4oEeoAYWmww/914e2f4e7f66232bb2ede35e913dec88/Flowers_and_Writing_Utensils__Between_Two_Transparent_Sheets__1970s.jpg)
Fred R. Hamlin
The Wizard of Oz, A Musical Poster, 1903
![Fred r. hamlin the wizard of oz musical poster 1903](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/4kFkKu6dcIGewAO4648oAE/1a677669c42219da29551693a695115e/Fred_R._Hamlin__The_Wizard_of_Oz_Musical__Poster__1903.jpg)
Helmut Lang
Bondage Trouser, Spring/ Summer 2004
![Helmut lang spring summer 2004 bondage trouser](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/13i6jhZMI4CUWOuyiYowY8/50d8e7f2cc924ab325c6ee6fab1a6bf0/Helmut_Lang_Spring_Summer_2004_Bondage_Trouser_.jpg)
Helmut Lang
Spring/ Summer 1998
![Helmut lang spring summer 1998](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6AVuwduwSsEy0Us24EKwQ0/16ac51d3ef4bb4897c034afd5e9e6c62/Helmut_Lang__Spring_Summer_1998.jpg)
Le Corbusier
Villa Savoye, 1928-1931
![Le corbusier villa savoye 1928 1931](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5Hk0FEu0TeIGIs0s8ISWmy/1f2633fad15b653f611b597ab03697d1/Le_Corbusier__Villa_Savoye__1928-1931.jpg)
Lucien Smith
Untitled (Tulip 04), 2018
![Lucien smith untitled tulip 04 2018](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/qCHz7nZwukGw6Y0WikyyW/6ee1e4938f3afbffbe22b3a69852a68f/Lucien_Smith__Untitled__Tulip_04___2018.jpg)
Polaroid
Supercolor Time Zero SX 70 Land Film
![Polaroid supercolor time zero sx 70 land film](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/58DsEJv9ZCm4IqSccmysAQ/072a8b0c298cf7f3062385a6e8135572/Polaroid_Supercolor_Time_Zero_SX_70_Land_Film.jpg)
Cory Arcangel
Super Mario Clouds
![Cory arcangel super mario clouds](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/iP0KeXWKf6K0AOCc86Soa/3ba18636ad0db6638b89a935041f95ef/Cory_Arcangel__Super_Mario_Clouds.jpg)
Joe Bradley
Schmagoo Painting, 2008
![Joe bradley schmagoo painting 2008](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/gLXA1n0lHiq8SwiikUm0m/b7d3f188e133d9e9735454932c352ab4/Joe_Bradley__Schmagoo_Painting__2008.jpg)
Martin Kippenberger
Martin, Into the Corner, You Should Be Ashamed of Yourself, 1992
![Martin kippenberger martin into the corner you should be ashamed of yourself 1992](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/29FhKW8RCEwaEKkEwIkgWO/f562adec4f8d5023fc91081714b98223/Martin_Kippenberger__Martin__Into_the_Corner__You_Should_Be_Ashamed_of_Yourself__1992.jpg)
Robert Mallet Stevens
Armchairs, 1921
![Robert mallet stevens armchairs pair ca 1921](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5GAYe32WdyoAOeGCaM6WU/3b7d896a03caff3d9fe676bef86cd8dc/Robert_Mallet_Stevens__Armchairs_pair__ca_1921.jpg)
Ron Nagle
Ceramic
![Ron nagle ceramic](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5zakFNNBraEc4W84UYiCIu/922dd7b31170b29fee37d38eb4d77c36/Ron_Nagle__Ceramic.jpg)
References
![Dan colen untitled birdshit 2007](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3pQEi0F4rK4yoQU8wY6yuu/e2bdaf9ee6e8cfd3dcfe444275311c96/Dan_Colen__Untitled__Birdshit___2007.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Dan Colen
Untitled (Birdshit), 2007
1 of 21
![1950s plugboard for an ibm 403 implements tax deduction computation. board courtesy of carl claunch](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6v0WwYQnKgyAUk66gaE6Ca/886365608eac0940d67fe1facad9c65b/1950s_plugboard_for_an_IBM_403_implements_tax_deduction_computation._Board_courtesy_of_Carl_Claunch.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Plugboard for an IBM 403 implements tax deduction computation
Board courtesy of Carl Claunch, 1950s
2 of 21
![Robert mallet stevens villa paul poiret 1924](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/LH7cGCx3m8ywCOeeKoKI4/1459b1a3ee8c4be90b8f1ca09781f313/Robert_Mallet_Stevens__Villa_Paul_Poiret__1924.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Robert Mallet Stevens
Villa Paul Poiret, 1924
3 of 21
![Jim dine the picture of dorian gray 1968](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/2wj8EXcOm4uqco4cyiaCwU/d44d97e7ab93caf2af53fa101fe8f7b3/Jim_Dine__The_Picture_of_Dorian_Gray__1968.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Jim Dine
The Picture of Dorian Gray, 1968
4 of 21
![4630164 orig](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/EqRZCAFLjM2iwmyGk40Mi/4e20188001ecdc809d71a03dc109c53d/4630164_orig.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
The Wizard of Oz
Film still of Dorothy on The Yellow Brick Road, 1939
5 of 21
![built ins time life books 1979](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/FDv4LsI1uUSUAcMkIoGSa/b6ab10096f97bb6874af1b748be54cb1/_Built-ins___Time_Life_Books__1979.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Time Life Books
'Built-ins', 1979
6 of 21
![Sterling ruby sp51 2008](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/ZFmiO0VfQQoKWAwcIiYWi/42207fa869e85126d8ead10148339400/Sterling_Ruby__SP51__2008.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Sterling Ruby
SP51, 2008
7 of 21
![Cory arcangel photoshop cs 110 by 72 inches 300 dpi rgb square pixels default gradient russell s rainbow tur](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/hy6d06afTygkA46yak4g8/a59e2171779fd09674934e57a3b8a132/Cory_Arcangel_-_Photoshop_CS-_110_by_72_inches__300_DPI__RGB__square_pixels__default_gradient____Russell___s_Rainbow_____tur.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Cory Arcangel
Photoshop CS- 110 by 72 inches, 300 DPI, RGB, square pixels, default gradient “Russell’s Rainbow” (turn transparency off), mousedown y=25300 x=17600, mouseup y=4300 x=17600, 2009
8 of 21
![Flowers and writing utensils between two transparent sheets 1970s](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/Eg5NbtBRzE4oEeoAYWmww/914e2f4e7f66232bb2ede35e913dec88/Flowers_and_Writing_Utensils__Between_Two_Transparent_Sheets__1970s.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Flowers and Writing Utensils Between Two Transparent Sheets
1970s
9 of 21
![Fred r. hamlin the wizard of oz musical poster 1903](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/4kFkKu6dcIGewAO4648oAE/1a677669c42219da29551693a695115e/Fred_R._Hamlin__The_Wizard_of_Oz_Musical__Poster__1903.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Fred R. Hamlin
The Wizard of Oz, A Musical Poster, 1903
10 of 21
![Helmut lang spring summer 2004 bondage trouser](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/13i6jhZMI4CUWOuyiYowY8/50d8e7f2cc924ab325c6ee6fab1a6bf0/Helmut_Lang_Spring_Summer_2004_Bondage_Trouser_.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Helmut Lang
Bondage Trouser, Spring/ Summer 2004
11 of 21
![Helmut lang spring summer 1998](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6AVuwduwSsEy0Us24EKwQ0/16ac51d3ef4bb4897c034afd5e9e6c62/Helmut_Lang__Spring_Summer_1998.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Helmut Lang
Spring/ Summer 1998
12 of 21
![Le corbusier villa savoye 1928 1931](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5Hk0FEu0TeIGIs0s8ISWmy/1f2633fad15b653f611b597ab03697d1/Le_Corbusier__Villa_Savoye__1928-1931.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Le Corbusier
Villa Savoye, 1928-1931
13 of 21
![Lucien smith untitled tulip 04 2018](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/qCHz7nZwukGw6Y0WikyyW/6ee1e4938f3afbffbe22b3a69852a68f/Lucien_Smith__Untitled__Tulip_04___2018.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Lucien Smith
Untitled (Tulip 04), 2018
14 of 21
![Polaroid supercolor time zero sx 70 land film](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/58DsEJv9ZCm4IqSccmysAQ/072a8b0c298cf7f3062385a6e8135572/Polaroid_Supercolor_Time_Zero_SX_70_Land_Film.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Polaroid
Supercolor Time Zero SX 70 Land Film
15 of 21
![Cory arcangel super mario clouds](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/iP0KeXWKf6K0AOCc86Soa/3ba18636ad0db6638b89a935041f95ef/Cory_Arcangel__Super_Mario_Clouds.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Cory Arcangel
Super Mario Clouds
17 of 21
![Joe bradley schmagoo painting 2008](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/gLXA1n0lHiq8SwiikUm0m/b7d3f188e133d9e9735454932c352ab4/Joe_Bradley__Schmagoo_Painting__2008.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Joe Bradley
Schmagoo Painting, 2008
18 of 21
![Martin kippenberger martin into the corner you should be ashamed of yourself 1992](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/29FhKW8RCEwaEKkEwIkgWO/f562adec4f8d5023fc91081714b98223/Martin_Kippenberger__Martin__Into_the_Corner__You_Should_Be_Ashamed_of_Yourself__1992.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Martin Kippenberger
Martin, Into the Corner, You Should Be Ashamed of Yourself, 1992
19 of 21
![Robert mallet stevens armchairs pair ca 1921](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5GAYe32WdyoAOeGCaM6WU/3b7d896a03caff3d9fe676bef86cd8dc/Robert_Mallet_Stevens__Armchairs_pair__ca_1921.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Robert Mallet Stevens
Armchairs, 1921
20 of 21
![Ron nagle ceramic](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5zakFNNBraEc4W84UYiCIu/922dd7b31170b29fee37d38eb4d77c36/Ron_Nagle__Ceramic.jpg?w=1000&q=70)