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Louis Vuitton S/S 2019 Menswear

Art / Architecture / Design / Fashion

A parade of off-white – no pun intended – tailored looks, layered and styled with unexpected ease, opened Virgil Abloh’s much-anticipated debut at Louis Vuitton menswear.


Posted January 12th, 2019 By Colby Mugrabi

Abloh’s inspiration for his first collection as creative director of the storied French house began with the study of a phenomenon known as dispersion, denoting the variety of colors refracted at various angles when white light hits a prism, creating an after-effect similar to a rainbow. If the show’s 15 neutral opening looks represented the presence of white light in the collection, this purist creative doctrine gave way to a multitude of colorful ensembles to follow, rendered in deep eggplant, cherry red and shades of teal, with pops of electric yellow and bright orange threaded throughout in surprising ways.

As the industry’s leader in leather goods, it came as no surprise that accessories were given center stage; styled not as useful ‘add-ons’ but as necessary elements to the completion of each look. Vuitton’s traditional travel bags and everyday trunks were rendered in transparent materials and updated versions of the brand’s classic LV monogram, while colorful linked chains further accessorized each accessory, offering an unwavering sense of ‘newness’ and, above all, ‘coolness’. It was Abloh’s study of hybrid garments, however, in the form of holsters, harnesses and zippered vests, that truly epitomized the juxtapositions felt throughout the collection, those between hard and soft, fashion and utility, luxury and street.

If the first half of the show gave respect to purity and color, the latter portion saw the introduction of further elements of inspiration through uniquely fabricated colorful tie-dye garments and an array of prints, namely those in references to the legendary 1939 film, The Wizard of Oz. Hoodies covered with poppy fields incorporated images of Dorothy, the fantasy film’s main protagonist, while brick-printed trouser’s symbolized the tale’s iconic Yellow Brick Road and the show’s standout knitwear displayed a colorful visual of the film’s four main characters.

Devoid of any formal fashion training, Abloh’s omniscient grasp on the pulse of contemporary culture is the skill the Chicago native has most to thank – along with a slew of successful projects and collaborations – for landing him the job as creative director of Louis Vuitton menswear. Like Dorothy in Oz, Abloh’s “Yellow Brick Road” to Vuitton has placed him in a new, somewhat unknown territory to explore. But if his first collection is any indication, he seems to be acclimating just fine.

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References

Dan Colen

Untitled (Birdshit), 2007

Dan colen  untitled  birdshit   2007

Plugboard for an IBM 403 implements tax deduction computation

Board courtesy of Carl Claunch, 1950s

1950s plugboard for an ibm 403 implements tax deduction computation. board courtesy of carl claunch

Robert Mallet Stevens

Villa Paul Poiret, 1924

Robert mallet stevens  villa paul poiret  1924

Jim Dine

The Picture of Dorian Gray, 1968

Jim dine  the picture of dorian gray  1968

The Wizard of Oz

Film still of Dorothy on The Yellow Brick Road, 1939

4630164 orig

Time Life Books

'Built-ins', 1979

 built ins   time life books  1979

Sterling Ruby

SP51, 2008

Sterling ruby  sp51  2008

Cory Arcangel

Photoshop CS- 110 by 72 inches, 300 DPI, RGB, square pixels, default gradient “Russell’s Rainbow” (turn transparency off), mousedown y=25300 x=17600, mouseup y=4300 x=17600, 2009

Cory arcangel   photoshop cs  110 by 72 inches  300 dpi  rgb  square pixels  default gradient    russell   s rainbow     tur

Flowers and Writing Utensils Between Two Transparent Sheets

1970s

Flowers and writing utensils  between two transparent sheets  1970s

Fred R. Hamlin

The Wizard of Oz, A Musical Poster, 1903

Fred r. hamlin  the wizard of oz musical  poster  1903

Helmut Lang

Bondage Trouser, Spring/ Summer 2004

Helmut lang spring summer 2004 bondage trouser

Helmut Lang

Spring/ Summer 1998

Helmut lang  spring summer 1998

Le Corbusier

Villa Savoye, 1928-1931

Le corbusier  villa savoye  1928 1931

Lucien Smith

Untitled (Tulip 04), 2018

Lucien smith  untitled  tulip 04   2018

Polaroid

Supercolor Time Zero SX 70 Land Film

Polaroid supercolor time zero sx 70 land film

Bianca Jagger, 1970s

Bianca jagger  1970s

Cory Arcangel

Super Mario Clouds

Cory arcangel  super mario clouds

Joe Bradley

Schmagoo Painting, 2008

Joe bradley  schmagoo painting  2008

Martin Kippenberger

Martin, Into the Corner, You Should Be Ashamed of Yourself, 1992

Martin kippenberger  martin  into the corner  you should be ashamed of yourself  1992

Robert Mallet Stevens

Armchairs, 1921

Robert mallet stevens  armchairs pair  ca 1921

Ron Nagle

Ceramic

Ron nagle  ceramic
References
Dan colen  untitled  birdshit   2007

Dan Colen

Untitled (Birdshit), 2007

1 of 21

1950s plugboard for an ibm 403 implements tax deduction computation. board courtesy of carl claunch

Plugboard for an IBM 403 implements tax deduction computation

Board courtesy of Carl Claunch, 1950s

2 of 21

Robert mallet stevens  villa paul poiret  1924

Robert Mallet Stevens

Villa Paul Poiret, 1924

3 of 21

Jim dine  the picture of dorian gray  1968

Jim Dine

The Picture of Dorian Gray, 1968

4 of 21

4630164 orig

The Wizard of Oz

Film still of Dorothy on The Yellow Brick Road, 1939

5 of 21

 built ins   time life books  1979

Time Life Books

'Built-ins', 1979

6 of 21

Sterling ruby  sp51  2008

Sterling Ruby

SP51, 2008

7 of 21

Cory arcangel   photoshop cs  110 by 72 inches  300 dpi  rgb  square pixels  default gradient    russell   s rainbow     tur

Cory Arcangel

Photoshop CS- 110 by 72 inches, 300 DPI, RGB, square pixels, default gradient “Russell’s Rainbow” (turn transparency off), mousedown y=25300 x=17600, mouseup y=4300 x=17600, 2009

8 of 21

Flowers and writing utensils  between two transparent sheets  1970s

Flowers and Writing Utensils Between Two Transparent Sheets

1970s

9 of 21

Fred r. hamlin  the wizard of oz musical  poster  1903

Fred R. Hamlin

The Wizard of Oz, A Musical Poster, 1903

10 of 21

Helmut lang spring summer 2004 bondage trouser

Helmut Lang

Bondage Trouser, Spring/ Summer 2004

11 of 21

Helmut lang  spring summer 1998

Helmut Lang

Spring/ Summer 1998

12 of 21

Le corbusier  villa savoye  1928 1931

Le Corbusier

Villa Savoye, 1928-1931

13 of 21

Lucien smith  untitled  tulip 04   2018

Lucien Smith

Untitled (Tulip 04), 2018

14 of 21

Polaroid supercolor time zero sx 70 land film

Polaroid

Supercolor Time Zero SX 70 Land Film

15 of 21

Bianca jagger  1970s

Bianca Jagger, 1970s

16 of 21

Cory arcangel  super mario clouds

Cory Arcangel

Super Mario Clouds

17 of 21

Joe bradley  schmagoo painting  2008

Joe Bradley

Schmagoo Painting, 2008

18 of 21

Martin kippenberger  martin  into the corner  you should be ashamed of yourself  1992

Martin Kippenberger

Martin, Into the Corner, You Should Be Ashamed of Yourself, 1992

19 of 21

Robert mallet stevens  armchairs pair  ca 1921

Robert Mallet Stevens

Armchairs, 1921

20 of 21

Ron nagle  ceramic

Ron Nagle

Ceramic

21 of 21


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