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Louis Vuitton S/S 2020 Menswear

Art / Architecture / Design / Fashion

Virgil Abloh brought us something in his Spring/Summer Menswear collection for Louis Vuitton that feels perhaps more desirable now than ever: a bouquet of fresh spring flowers, the purity associated with childhood, and new beginnings.


Posted May 6th, 2020 By Colby Mugrabi

Naturally, in communicating spring on the runway, pastels were among the first colors to meet the eye - and they remained prevalent throughout the show - while Alboh also brought us the likes of sun hats, garden gloves, and trench coats. As the show continued, florals grew more prevalent in a variety of formats and brighter colors were introduced. In this bold shift, a collection that started as a springtime take on a refined aesthetic, began bursting with creative detail and unique structural choices added mainly through outerwear and accessories.

The graceful fluidity of the collection's breezy garments echoed the fluidity of gender in what might be considered traditionally “feminine” colors and florals. Then, of course, this gentle structure is counterbalanced by geometry. First, we might unpack (pun intended) Abloh’s use of the triangle bag; highlighting the leather goods in this show seems to be the new creative director’s way of honoring the great history of the Louis Vuitton house. Many of them have a vintage trunk-like feel with a fresh, modern spin. Moreover, in addition to its geometrical structure that physically offsets the loose garments, the triangle is traditionally known to represent strength. In this way, perhaps Abloh’s leather goods bring an element of strength to the youthful sense of optimism at play throughout the collection.

Kites (and kite-like inspirations) were another way that Abloh geniously incorporated physical structure while honoring a childish sense of play. They were featured in coats and backpacks that looked like a nod to the designer’s streetwear roots, which wass also seen in his incorporation of drawstrings and straps, or in a more traditional sense, through hoodies and sneakers. In these ways, Abloh’s work at Louis Vuitton continues to act as a bridge between high fashion and the street, which is achieved through the elegant presentation of artistry, craftsmanship, and approachable silhouetees that have defined his tenure thus far at Louis Vuitton.

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References
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Portrait of Salvador Dalí

1979

 159c7435 6c34 4d3c b9b6 ed5e611f595d

Christo

Wrapped Jerry Can, 1961

Christo  wrapped jerry can  1961

Dennis Oppenheim

Impersonation Station, 1988

 dennis oppenheim impersonation station   1988

Jim Hodges

With the Wind, 1997

Jim hodges  with the wind  1997

Craig Green

Fall/Winter 2012

Craig green fall winter 2012

Paolo Lomazzi, Donato D'Urbino, Jonathan De Pas

Blow Inflatable Armchair, 1972

Paolo lomazzi  donato d urbino  jonathan de pas  blow inflatable armchair  1972

Dan Colen

Infinite Jest, 2012

Dan colen  infinite jest  2012

Vanity Fair

Four of The New York Five (left to right, Michael Graves, Charles Gwathmey, Richard Meier, Peter Eisenman), 1996

  four of the new york five  left to right  michael graves  charles gwathmey  richard meier  peter eisenman  with john hejdu

Christopher Kane

Spring/Summer 2012

Chrisstopher kane spring summer 2012

Craig Green

Spring/Summer 2015

Craig green spring summer 2015

Dan Colen

Everybody's Gonna Die, 2014

Dan colen  everybody s gonna die  2014

Frank Gehry

Vitra Design Museum, 1989

Frank gehry  vitra design museum  1989

Jeff Koon

Puppy, 1992

Jeff koon  puppy  1992

Yves Saint Laurent

Spring/Summer 2008

Yves saint laurnet  spring summer 2008

Louis Eisner

Danish Standard VI (I), 2014

Louis eisner  danish standard vi  i   2014

Michael Webb

Cushicle, 1967

Michael webb of archigram group  with his full size model of the  cushicle   1967

Paul McCarthy

White Snow, Balloon Dog, 2013

Paul mccarthy  white snow  balloon dog  2013

Richard Diebenkorn

Ocean Park #24, 1969

Richard diebenkorn  ocean park  24  1969
References
 159c7435 6c34 4d3c b9b6 ed5e611f595d

Portrait of Salvador Dalí

1979

1 of 18

Christo  wrapped jerry can  1961

Christo

Wrapped Jerry Can, 1961

2 of 18

 dennis oppenheim impersonation station   1988

Dennis Oppenheim

Impersonation Station, 1988

3 of 18

Jim hodges  with the wind  1997

Jim Hodges

With the Wind, 1997

4 of 18

Craig green fall winter 2012

Craig Green

Fall/Winter 2012

5 of 18

Paolo lomazzi  donato d urbino  jonathan de pas  blow inflatable armchair  1972

Paolo Lomazzi, Donato D'Urbino, Jonathan De Pas

Blow Inflatable Armchair, 1972

6 of 18

Dan colen  infinite jest  2012

Dan Colen

Infinite Jest, 2012

7 of 18

  four of the new york five  left to right  michael graves  charles gwathmey  richard meier  peter eisenman  with john hejdu

Vanity Fair

Four of The New York Five (left to right, Michael Graves, Charles Gwathmey, Richard Meier, Peter Eisenman), 1996

8 of 18

Chrisstopher kane spring summer 2012

Christopher Kane

Spring/Summer 2012

9 of 18

Craig green spring summer 2015

Craig Green

Spring/Summer 2015

10 of 18

Dan colen  everybody s gonna die  2014

Dan Colen

Everybody's Gonna Die, 2014

11 of 18

Frank gehry  vitra design museum  1989

Frank Gehry

Vitra Design Museum, 1989

12 of 18

Jeff koon  puppy  1992

Jeff Koon

Puppy, 1992

13 of 18

Yves saint laurnet  spring summer 2008

Yves Saint Laurent

Spring/Summer 2008

14 of 18

Louis eisner  danish standard vi  i   2014

Louis Eisner

Danish Standard VI (I), 2014

15 of 18

Michael webb of archigram group  with his full size model of the  cushicle   1967

Michael Webb

Cushicle, 1967

16 of 18

Paul mccarthy  white snow  balloon dog  2013

Paul McCarthy

White Snow, Balloon Dog, 2013

17 of 18

Richard diebenkorn  ocean park  24  1969

Richard Diebenkorn

Ocean Park #24, 1969

18 of 18


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