The common thread – for lack of a better pun – linking John Galliano’s wonderfully diversified ready-to-wear and Artisanal collections for the house of Margiela, resides in the British designer’s knack for challenging convention.
For spring/summer 2017 – Galliano’s eighth presentation since becoming creative director of the hugely influential, avant-garde fashion house – the designer took creative license to imbue his dystopian design rhetoric to trick and tease the eye. From ‘could be’ scuba suits that morphed into tubular knit skirts, chunky sweaters wrapped around shoulders and styled as tops, and traditional trench coats utilized as ornamental details on the façades of flowy dresses, experimentation appears to be the creative impetus behind the designer’s innovative visual language. On this season's runway, Galliano developed a space age, sea-dwelling voyager, through the collection’s utilitarian styling and references to the sea, from chunky trimmings wrapped on collars and suspended from hems like clinging coral, to fluorescent appliqué covering skirts like bejeweled sea anemones, and new-age tabi boots that looked like offspring of Margiela’s trademark shoe and a scuba boot, the illustrations were innumerable. A standout offering of unique garments styled in Galliano’s distinctly genius and slightly unconventional fashion.
![Maison margiela ss 2017 muse board](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/2vf1JOw1ksOuyA0iEYE6Sk/fa9bbdfe13ca296a6d623191c1f222a9/Maison_Margiela_SS_2017_Muse_Board.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
References
- 1
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Alexander McQueen
'The Birds', Spring/Summer 1995
![Alexander mcqueen ss 1995 the birds](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/2ZWstK52esUIW4MO0IuQAy/457eff1c9dc84bfe54cd58d84a1b3b90/Alexander_McQueen__SS_1995__The_Birds.jpg)
Unidentified Artist
Still Life, Flowers and Fruit in White and Pink Bowl, 1840-60
![Still life flowers and fruit in white and pink bowl 1840 60 unidentified artist](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/1RNm0ngpykaWEe4caOqaIe/47431cc7a07bff82dabcb93a667fd3ac/Still_Life___Flowers_and_Fruit_in_White_and_Pink_Bowl__1840-60__unidentified_artist.jpg)
Antti Lovag
Palais Bulles, 1975-1989, France
![Palais bulles pierre cardin s fabulous bubble palace](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6HqRFqJa8gS2yeKaaIWimM/ab6098d0417baaf5b3aac18ffba335d3/Palais_Bulles__Pierre_Cardin_s_fabulous_Bubble_Palace.jpg)
Ikka Suppanen
'Airbag' Chair, 1997
![airbag chair 1997 ikka suppanen](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5G14AF6yrYm04m80wkQ0WI/eee3ebee1c9480464579fcaa95863cf4/_Airbag__Chair__1997__Ikka_Suppanen.jpg)
Alex Israel
Booties, 2015
![Booties 2015 by alex israel](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/4bif0IeveUiQyMcKIm0ya/b943f504580f29653b7fd8ad8a589a0a/Booties__2015_by_Alex_Israel.jpg)
Andy Warhol
Alexander the Great, 1982
![Andy warhol alexander the great 1982](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/15t78PImwGAsmgEg44amem/d92d3f3757184e776bfd648dfdfdee35/Andy_Warhol__Alexander_the_Great__1982.jpg)
Andy Warhol
Birth of Venus, 1984
![Andy warhol warhol birth of venus 1984](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/2NGzX90U3KGKScoCyYcO8q/47aa9755ee1cea75bcda11a8e3be843b/Andy_Warhol__Warhol_Birth_of_Venus__1984.jpg)
Junichi Arai
Crinkled Sheer Fabric
![Crinkled sheer fabric by junichi arai](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/35XiFrd3qUGewAmQ4YkIk2/8c02dfde7fdd1c68cac3d1ba5eef3a87/Crinkled_Sheer_Fabric_by_Junichi_Arai.jpg)
Erich Mendelsohn
Einstein Tower, 1920-21, Potsdam
![Erich mendelsohn einstein tower in potsdam built 1920 21](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/4HMxhT2aXmgQy2sSmCicSu/deee4bcae5bb4587a450aecfa8d5f1cc/Erich_Mendelsohn__Einstein_Tower_in_Potsdam__built_1920-21_.jpg)
Evan Lewis
Copper Bombe Cabinet, 1990
![Evan lewis copper bombe cabinet 1990](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6Pkym2GTm0cMKmEC8eC6m2/fd4f71011ac386c131afe8e748b9ceb5/Evan_Lewis__Copper_Bombe_Cabinet__1990.jpg)
Junichi Arai
Fabric
![Fabric by junichi arai](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/4Zl0Ass4AgGm4Moe8g2ucY/076ae998815f096017c799b064f9f06a/fabric_by_Junichi_Arai.jpg)
Gisele Bündchen Beach Editorial
Vogue Paris, 2012
![Gisele bundchen vogue paris beach editorial 2012](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3uta5vb8isoGqoe6EcOaae/9bb6cd13d61b1e60122669d36f084763/Gisele_Bundchen_Vogue_Paris__Beach_Editorial__2012.jpg)
Gunnar Aagaard Andersen
Bogstavtæppe (Letter carpet) for Unika Vaev, 1960s
![Gunnar aagaard andersen bogstavt ppe letter carpet for unika vaev 1960s](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/7bzC3igJO0gKkwc00IUCkq/1539ba786b57a1f2fabaf8b755a6e336/Gunnar_Aagaard_Andersen__Bogstavt__ppe__Letter_carpet__for_Unika_Vaev__1960s.jpg)
Mark Flood
Emerald Matrix, 2014
![Mark flood emerald matrix 2014 acrylic on canvas](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/1WmY32mcZGyUSu4am8uEoe/3cdd620ec230f55fbbfaa01c3c026d09/Mark_Flood_Emerald_Matrix__2014_Acrylic_on_canvas.jpg)
Miele Italiano Miele
Tullio D'Albisola, 1930
Elsa Schiaparelli
Vest, 1937-38
![Schiaparelli vest 1937 38](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5y1CmKAL9CwUuU6UC4UqsS/4d1ee6b01f2ae174df5a242b061ff474/Schiaparelli_Vest__1937-38.jpg)
Alex Israel
Self Portrait (Wetsuit), 2015
![Self portrait wetsuit 2015 by alex israel](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6di9exyjUkC4kK0k4KuIqq/05b598b8af67c166ce077199dcc66c65/Self_Portrait__Wetsuit___2015_by_Alex_Israel.jpg)
Robert Venturi and Denise Scott Brown
Sheraton Chair, 1980s
![Sheraton chair by robert venturi and denise scott brown](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/11Ch8o68CoSOca0WkOO2ME/d69d2a5bdf73bfc21f97964bd2329a47/Sheraton_Chair_by_Robert_Venturi_and_Denise_Scott_Brown.jpg)
Sheila Hicks
The Silk Rainforest, 1975
![The silk rainforest 1975 by sheila hicks. minimalism. tapestry](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/2GfUssBJ7yUQyGecKWKmmc/9f23b85fa025dd7a6cb9496986baa5c4/The_Silk_Rainforest__1975_by_Sheila_Hicks._Minimalism._tapestry.jpg)
Marc Newson
Voronoi Shelf, 2007
![Voronoi shelf marc newson 2007](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/471C9iH2oEakaesEs8uA0y/35c7fb17e04315f519f05b4c68a5ceff/Voronoi_Shelf__Marc_Newson__2007.jpg)
Yoshiki Hishinuma
Dress made of sheer polyester/polyurethane, 1999
![Yoshiki hishinuma dress made of sheer polyester polyurethane from 1999](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/2J6ENLvrHiWyIye6oIEW8/ec130087db4c3916b4944260766a72c4/Yoshiki_Hishinuma_dress_made_of_sheer_polyester_polyurethane_from_1999.jpg)
References
![Alexander mcqueen ss 1995 the birds](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/2ZWstK52esUIW4MO0IuQAy/457eff1c9dc84bfe54cd58d84a1b3b90/Alexander_McQueen__SS_1995__The_Birds.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Alexander McQueen
'The Birds', Spring/Summer 1995
1 of 22
![Still life flowers and fruit in white and pink bowl 1840 60 unidentified artist](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/1RNm0ngpykaWEe4caOqaIe/47431cc7a07bff82dabcb93a667fd3ac/Still_Life___Flowers_and_Fruit_in_White_and_Pink_Bowl__1840-60__unidentified_artist.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Unidentified Artist
Still Life, Flowers and Fruit in White and Pink Bowl, 1840-60
2 of 22
![Palais bulles pierre cardin s fabulous bubble palace](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6HqRFqJa8gS2yeKaaIWimM/ab6098d0417baaf5b3aac18ffba335d3/Palais_Bulles__Pierre_Cardin_s_fabulous_Bubble_Palace.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Antti Lovag
Palais Bulles, 1975-1989, France
3 of 22
![airbag chair 1997 ikka suppanen](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5G14AF6yrYm04m80wkQ0WI/eee3ebee1c9480464579fcaa95863cf4/_Airbag__Chair__1997__Ikka_Suppanen.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Ikka Suppanen
'Airbag' Chair, 1997
4 of 22
![Booties 2015 by alex israel](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/4bif0IeveUiQyMcKIm0ya/b943f504580f29653b7fd8ad8a589a0a/Booties__2015_by_Alex_Israel.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Alex Israel
Booties, 2015
5 of 22
![Andy warhol alexander the great 1982](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/15t78PImwGAsmgEg44amem/d92d3f3757184e776bfd648dfdfdee35/Andy_Warhol__Alexander_the_Great__1982.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Andy Warhol
Alexander the Great, 1982
6 of 22
![Andy warhol warhol birth of venus 1984](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/2NGzX90U3KGKScoCyYcO8q/47aa9755ee1cea75bcda11a8e3be843b/Andy_Warhol__Warhol_Birth_of_Venus__1984.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Andy Warhol
Birth of Venus, 1984
7 of 22
![Crinkled sheer fabric by junichi arai](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/35XiFrd3qUGewAmQ4YkIk2/8c02dfde7fdd1c68cac3d1ba5eef3a87/Crinkled_Sheer_Fabric_by_Junichi_Arai.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Junichi Arai
Crinkled Sheer Fabric
9 of 22
![Erich mendelsohn einstein tower in potsdam built 1920 21](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/4HMxhT2aXmgQy2sSmCicSu/deee4bcae5bb4587a450aecfa8d5f1cc/Erich_Mendelsohn__Einstein_Tower_in_Potsdam__built_1920-21_.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Erich Mendelsohn
Einstein Tower, 1920-21, Potsdam
10 of 22
![Evan lewis copper bombe cabinet 1990](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6Pkym2GTm0cMKmEC8eC6m2/fd4f71011ac386c131afe8e748b9ceb5/Evan_Lewis__Copper_Bombe_Cabinet__1990.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Evan Lewis
Copper Bombe Cabinet, 1990
11 of 22
![Fabric by junichi arai](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/4Zl0Ass4AgGm4Moe8g2ucY/076ae998815f096017c799b064f9f06a/fabric_by_Junichi_Arai.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Junichi Arai
Fabric
12 of 22
![Gisele bundchen vogue paris beach editorial 2012](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3uta5vb8isoGqoe6EcOaae/9bb6cd13d61b1e60122669d36f084763/Gisele_Bundchen_Vogue_Paris__Beach_Editorial__2012.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Gisele Bündchen Beach Editorial
Vogue Paris, 2012
13 of 22
![Gunnar aagaard andersen bogstavt ppe letter carpet for unika vaev 1960s](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/7bzC3igJO0gKkwc00IUCkq/1539ba786b57a1f2fabaf8b755a6e336/Gunnar_Aagaard_Andersen__Bogstavt__ppe__Letter_carpet__for_Unika_Vaev__1960s.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Gunnar Aagaard Andersen
Bogstavtæppe (Letter carpet) for Unika Vaev, 1960s
14 of 22
![Mark flood emerald matrix 2014 acrylic on canvas](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/1WmY32mcZGyUSu4am8uEoe/3cdd620ec230f55fbbfaa01c3c026d09/Mark_Flood_Emerald_Matrix__2014_Acrylic_on_canvas.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Mark Flood
Emerald Matrix, 2014
15 of 22
Miele Italiano Miele
Tullio D'Albisola, 1930
16 of 22
![Schiaparelli vest 1937 38](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5y1CmKAL9CwUuU6UC4UqsS/4d1ee6b01f2ae174df5a242b061ff474/Schiaparelli_Vest__1937-38.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Elsa Schiaparelli
Vest, 1937-38
17 of 22
![Self portrait wetsuit 2015 by alex israel](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6di9exyjUkC4kK0k4KuIqq/05b598b8af67c166ce077199dcc66c65/Self_Portrait__Wetsuit___2015_by_Alex_Israel.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Alex Israel
Self Portrait (Wetsuit), 2015
18 of 22
![Sheraton chair by robert venturi and denise scott brown](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/11Ch8o68CoSOca0WkOO2ME/d69d2a5bdf73bfc21f97964bd2329a47/Sheraton_Chair_by_Robert_Venturi_and_Denise_Scott_Brown.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Robert Venturi and Denise Scott Brown
Sheraton Chair, 1980s
19 of 22
![The silk rainforest 1975 by sheila hicks. minimalism. tapestry](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/2GfUssBJ7yUQyGecKWKmmc/9f23b85fa025dd7a6cb9496986baa5c4/The_Silk_Rainforest__1975_by_Sheila_Hicks._Minimalism._tapestry.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Sheila Hicks
The Silk Rainforest, 1975
20 of 22
![Voronoi shelf marc newson 2007](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/471C9iH2oEakaesEs8uA0y/35c7fb17e04315f519f05b4c68a5ceff/Voronoi_Shelf__Marc_Newson__2007.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Marc Newson
Voronoi Shelf, 2007
21 of 22
![Yoshiki hishinuma dress made of sheer polyester polyurethane from 1999](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/2J6ENLvrHiWyIye6oIEW8/ec130087db4c3916b4944260766a72c4/Yoshiki_Hishinuma_dress_made_of_sheer_polyester_polyurethane_from_1999.jpg?w=1000&q=70)