As we all know, fashion loves contradiction. In Marc Jacobs’ Fall/Winter 2019 ready-to-wear collection, we see the evident interplay between sharpness and whimsicality. While hyper-proportionality and exaggerated features dominate the show, there is also a playfulness incorporated, which leaves viewers wanting more. The jarring yet soothing tones of the violin speak to the overall aesthetic of the show, as there is a continued hierarchical battle between neutrality and excess.
Enter: high-necked, ruffled dresses, baby-doll-esque coats and school girl chic. But these nostalgic pieces are also underscored by feathered headpieces that add texture and depth to the familiarity. In particular, there is repetition in uniformity, as we see socks and loafers, skirts and collared shirts. The geometric forms seen in the grid patterning contradict the structured yet loose silhouettes displaying fluidity. We also see sequined suiting, layered over an oversized organza pussy bow, which undeniably nods to the cool girl. The dialogue between these forms speaks to the overall nature of the collection, in its desire to be both subdued and ostentatious at once.
But a recurring theme that most definitely is a highlight of the show is the consuming silhouette. The exaggerated sleeves and bodices of these garments allow them to come to life and walk themselves off the model. The oversized leopard print coat, huge featured scarf, and feathered headpiece combination took on a form of its own, allowing its animalistic qualities to dictate it. In particular, the complete feathered dress was reminiscent of the both beloved and feared black swan. There are also more subtle cues towards this theme in the feather and sequin cape. But between these looks we also see a fairytale green shimmering dress and multiple pastel gowns that act as metaphorical palate cleansers, while the show ends with a black swan evening dress, modeled by none other than Christy Turlington, which leaves the audience with a feeling they’ll hope to hold on to.
Click below to see the full Muse Board inspired by Marc Jacobs' Fall/Winter 2019 runway collection.