As we all know, fashion loves contradiction. In Marc Jacobs’ Fall/Winter 2019 ready-to-wear collection, we see the evident interplay between sharpness and whimsicality. While hyper-proportionality and exaggerated features dominate the show, there is also a playfulness incorporated, which leaves viewers wanting more. The jarring yet soothing tones of the violin speak to the overall aesthetic of the show, as there is a continued hierarchical battle between neutrality and excess.
Enter: high-necked, ruffled dresses, baby-doll-esque coats and school girl chic. But these nostalgic pieces are also underscored by feathered headpieces that add texture and depth to the familiarity. In particular, there is repetition in uniformity, as we see socks and loafers, skirts and collared shirts. The geometric forms seen in the grid patterning contradict the structured yet loose silhouettes displaying fluidity. We also see sequined suiting, layered over an oversized organza pussy bow, which undeniably nods to the cool girl. The dialogue between these forms speaks to the overall nature of the collection, in its desire to be both subdued and ostentatious at once.
But a recurring theme that most definitely is a highlight of the show is the consuming silhouette. The exaggerated sleeves and bodices of these garments allow them to come to life and walk themselves off the model. The oversized leopard print coat, huge featured scarf, and feathered headpiece combination took on a form of its own, allowing its animalistic qualities to dictate it. In particular, the complete feathered dress was reminiscent of the both beloved and feared black swan. There are also more subtle cues towards this theme in the feather and sequin cape. But between these looks we also see a fairytale green shimmering dress and multiple pastel gowns that act as metaphorical palate cleansers, while the show ends with a black swan evening dress, modeled by none other than Christy Turlington, which leaves the audience with a feeling they’ll hope to hold on to.

Click below to see the full Muse Board inspired by Marc Jacobs' Fall/Winter 2019 runway collection.
References
- 1
- 2
Penelope Tree
1960s

William Klein
Annabel Buffet in Balenciaga

Joseph Urban
Mural at St. Regis Hotel, New York

Richard Avedon
Audrey Hepburn in Harper's Bazaar, October 1956

John Everett Millais
Ophelia, 1851–52

Jeanne Lanvin
Art Deco Apartment

George Hunzinger
Side Chair, 1869

Vogue Paris
Catherine Deneuve, October 1965

Cristóbal Balenciaga
Jacket

Irving Penn
Lily, Imperial Pink (New York), 1971

Jean Paul Gaultier
Spring/Summer 1995

Otto Eckmann
Jugend Magazine, 1900

Peter Behrens
Brass and Wicker Kettle, 1909

Peter Behrens
House, Darmstadt, Germany 1899-1901

Scarlett O'Hara
Green Drapery Dress, Gone With the Wind

Otto Eckmann
Schwertlilien, 1895

Otto Eckmann
Spring

Umberto Bellotto
Wrought Iron Sculpture, 1915-25

Jozsef Rippl-Ronai
Woman With a Birdcage, 1892

Yves Tanguy
Earrings for Peggy Guggenheim, 1938

References

Penelope Tree
1960s
1 of 20

William Klein
Annabel Buffet in Balenciaga
2 of 20

Joseph Urban
Mural at St. Regis Hotel, New York
3 of 20

Richard Avedon
Audrey Hepburn in Harper's Bazaar, October 1956
4 of 20

John Everett Millais
Ophelia, 1851–52
5 of 20

Jeanne Lanvin
Art Deco Apartment
6 of 20

George Hunzinger
Side Chair, 1869
7 of 20

Vogue Paris
Catherine Deneuve, October 1965
8 of 20

Cristóbal Balenciaga
Jacket
9 of 20

Irving Penn
Lily, Imperial Pink (New York), 1971
10 of 20

Jean Paul Gaultier
Spring/Summer 1995
11 of 20

Otto Eckmann
Jugend Magazine, 1900
12 of 20

Peter Behrens
Brass and Wicker Kettle, 1909
13 of 20

Peter Behrens
House, Darmstadt, Germany 1899-1901
14 of 20

Scarlett O'Hara
Green Drapery Dress, Gone With the Wind
15 of 20

Otto Eckmann
Schwertlilien, 1895
16 of 20

Otto Eckmann
Spring
17 of 20

Umberto Bellotto
Wrought Iron Sculpture, 1915-25
18 of 20

Jozsef Rippl-Ronai
Woman With a Birdcage, 1892
19 of 20
