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Marc Jacobs F/W 2019

Art / Architecture / Design / Fashion

As we all know, fashion loves contradiction. In Marc Jacobs’ Fall/Winter 2019 ready-to-wear collection, we see the evident interplay between sharpness and whimsicality. While hyper-proportionality and exaggerated features dominate the show, there is also a playfulness incorporated, which leaves viewers wanting more. The jarring yet soothing tones of the violin speak to the overall aesthetic of the show, as there is a continued hierarchical battle between neutrality and excess.


Posted October 27th, 2019 By Colby Mugrabi

Enter: high-necked, ruffled dresses, baby-doll-esque coats and school girl chic. But these nostalgic pieces are also underscored by feathered headpieces that add texture and depth to the familiarity. In particular, there is repetition in uniformity, as we see socks and loafers, skirts and collared shirts. The geometric forms seen in the grid patterning contradict the structured yet loose silhouettes displaying fluidity. We also see sequined suiting, layered over an oversized organza pussy bow, which undeniably nods to the cool girl. The dialogue between these forms speaks to the overall nature of the collection, in its desire to be both subdued and ostentatious at once.

But a recurring theme that most definitely is a highlight of the show is the consuming silhouette. The exaggerated sleeves and bodices of these garments allow them to come to life and walk themselves off the model. The oversized leopard print coat, huge featured scarf, and feathered headpiece combination took on a form of its own, allowing its animalistic qualities to dictate it. In particular, the complete feathered dress was reminiscent of the both beloved and feared black swan. There are also more subtle cues towards this theme in the feather and sequin cape. But between these looks we also see a fairytale green shimmering dress and multiple pastel gowns that act as metaphorical palate cleansers, while the show ends with a black swan evening dress, modeled by none other than Christy Turlington, which leaves the audience with a feeling they’ll hope to hold on to.

Marc jacobs fw 2019 muse board

Click below to see the full Muse Board inspired by Marc Jacobs' Fall/Winter 2019 runway collection.

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References
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Penelope Tree

1960s

60s icon penelope tree looks both sweet and kinda goth in this cool oversized frock.

William Klein

Annabel Buffet in Balenciaga

Annabel buffet in balenciaga s long panther hostess dress photographed by william klein

Joseph Urban

Mural at St. Regis Hotel, New York

Joseph urban st. regis hotel  new york  murals for roof garden dining room

Richard Avedon

Audrey Hepburn in Harper's Bazaar, October 1956

Harper s bazaar magazine  october 1956

John Everett Millais

Ophelia, 1851–52

Sir john everett millais  ophelia  1851   2

Jeanne Lanvin

Art Deco Apartment

Jeanne lanvin art deco apartment 5

George Hunzinger

Side Chair, 1869

American victorian ebonized and gilt trimmed arm chair

Vogue Paris

Catherine Deneuve, October 1965

1965octcatherine deneuve on the october 1965 cover of vogue paris

Cristóbal Balenciaga

Jacket

Balenciaga jacket

Irving Penn

Lily, Imperial Pink (New York), 1971

Irving penn  lily  imperial pink  new york   1971

Jean Paul Gaultier

Spring/Summer 1995

Jean paul gaultier spring 1995 rtw 047

Otto Eckmann

Jugend Magazine, 1900

Jugend magazine  otto eckmann  1900

Peter Behrens

Brass and Wicker Kettle, 1909

Peter behrens  brass and wicker  kettle  1909

Peter Behrens

House, Darmstadt, Germany 1899-1901

Peter behrens  house  1899 1901  darmstadt  germany

Scarlett O'Hara

Green Drapery Dress, Gone With the Wind

Scarlett o hara green drapery dress civil war dress gone with the wind butterick 4051 sizes 6 8 10 b

Otto Eckmann

Schwertlilien, 1895

Schwertlilien  otto eckmann  1895

Otto Eckmann

Spring

Spring   otto eckmann

Umberto Bellotto

Wrought Iron Sculpture, 1915-25

Umberto bellotto  1883 1940  wrought iron sculpture  circa 1915   1925.

Jozsef Rippl-Ronai

Woman With a Birdcage, 1892

Woman with a birdcage  1892 by jozsef rippl ronai.

Yves Tanguy

Earrings for Peggy Guggenheim, 1938

Yves tanguy  earrings for peggy guggenheim  ca. 1938.
References
60s icon penelope tree looks both sweet and kinda goth in this cool oversized frock.

Penelope Tree

1960s

1 of 20

Annabel buffet in balenciaga s long panther hostess dress photographed by william klein

William Klein

Annabel Buffet in Balenciaga

2 of 20

Joseph urban st. regis hotel  new york  murals for roof garden dining room

Joseph Urban

Mural at St. Regis Hotel, New York

3 of 20

Harper s bazaar magazine  october 1956

Richard Avedon

Audrey Hepburn in Harper's Bazaar, October 1956

4 of 20

Sir john everett millais  ophelia  1851   2

John Everett Millais

Ophelia, 1851–52

5 of 20

Jeanne lanvin art deco apartment 5

Jeanne Lanvin

Art Deco Apartment

6 of 20

American victorian ebonized and gilt trimmed arm chair

George Hunzinger

Side Chair, 1869

7 of 20

1965octcatherine deneuve on the october 1965 cover of vogue paris

Vogue Paris

Catherine Deneuve, October 1965

8 of 20

Balenciaga jacket

Cristóbal Balenciaga

Jacket

9 of 20

Irving penn  lily  imperial pink  new york   1971

Irving Penn

Lily, Imperial Pink (New York), 1971

10 of 20

Jean paul gaultier spring 1995 rtw 047

Jean Paul Gaultier

Spring/Summer 1995

11 of 20

Jugend magazine  otto eckmann  1900

Otto Eckmann

Jugend Magazine, 1900

12 of 20

Peter behrens  brass and wicker  kettle  1909

Peter Behrens

Brass and Wicker Kettle, 1909

13 of 20

Peter behrens  house  1899 1901  darmstadt  germany

Peter Behrens

House, Darmstadt, Germany 1899-1901

14 of 20

Scarlett o hara green drapery dress civil war dress gone with the wind butterick 4051 sizes 6 8 10 b

Scarlett O'Hara

Green Drapery Dress, Gone With the Wind

15 of 20

Schwertlilien  otto eckmann  1895

Otto Eckmann

Schwertlilien, 1895

16 of 20

Spring   otto eckmann

Otto Eckmann

Spring

17 of 20

Umberto bellotto  1883 1940  wrought iron sculpture  circa 1915   1925.

Umberto Bellotto

Wrought Iron Sculpture, 1915-25

18 of 20

Woman with a birdcage  1892 by jozsef rippl ronai.

Jozsef Rippl-Ronai

Woman With a Birdcage, 1892

19 of 20

Yves tanguy  earrings for peggy guggenheim  ca. 1938.

Yves Tanguy

Earrings for Peggy Guggenheim, 1938

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