Marc Jacobs designs with a very clear muse in mind. For spring/summer 2013 Jacobs presented 45 looks celebrating the heyday of underground New York City, with particular emphasis on the cool kids of the 1960s; think Edie Sedgwick at Warhol’s factory or Mia Farrow’s perfect pixie cut. The designer’s laser sharp focus on ‘ladies with an edge’ was achieved through his no-nonsense color pallet, with looks rendered almost exclusively in white, black, khaki, chocolate brown and cherry red. Op art patterns, endless amounts of stripes and an occasional ruffled collar or cheetah print provided just enough variation amongst a collection filled more or less with pleated, hip-slug skirts paired with shrunken blazers and belly-baring crop tops, or long, drop waist shift dresses. Marc Jacobs’ archetypal cool girl took a time travel trip this season to the 1960s, and came back looking conspicuously modern with an entire closet to covet.