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Marc Jacobs S/S 2015

Art / Architecture / Design / Fashion

Fashion and technology have been in collaboration since the latter’s very beginning. From the sewing machine to the FitBit, e-commerce to smart fabrics and lab-grown leather, technology improves how we make fashion and expands the limits of what society believes fashion to be.


Posted June 23rd, 2019 By Colby Mugrabi

Leave it to Marc Jacobs to take this pattern and run with it. Case in point, the designer’s Spring/Summer 2015 runway show, for which audience members were equipped with Beats by Dre headphones, giving each individual onlooker their own immersive, personal experience. Through the headphones played a monotone voice narrating an everyday scene while background sounds added support to the picture. The audio, made by Jacobs and producer Steve Mackey, was based on John Smith’s 1976 short film, The Girl Chewing Gum. Fittingly, the set was bubblegum pink, with pink shag carpet and a pink house commissioned for the show. There is a cheeky connection between the set and the audio, but neither prepared audience members for the contents of the show to come.

In contrast to the show’s vibrant set, the collection employed a primarily muted color pallet, favoring nudes, camels, deep blues, and army greens. Inspired by uniforms and the modernist notion of collective uniformity, each model walked the runway sans make-up, and wearing identically un-kept, shaggy black bobs. Military, too, was a clear source of inspiration: military jackets, cinched grandma dresses, and cargo pants all detailed with large pockets and shiny buttons.

Silhouettes ranged from sporty to conservative, and flirty to shy schoolgirl modesty, with accessories to match; from utility messenger bags and backpacks, to sleek, ladylike alligator purses. Slip-on sandals were prominent throughout the collection, as was an underlying story of personalization, hidden within details that became more prominent as the show went on – eyelets became pronounced bumps, varying in size and forming intricate patterns, pockets got bigger and bolder, and patches in varying colors were added to hemlines.

There was a clear message in Jacobs’ spring/summer 2015 show about fashion as a form of personalization and its otherwise rejection of uniformity. In making the collection’s ensembles increasingly unique as the show progressed, Jacobs subverts the intention of the uniform — anonymity. Nonetheless, the season’s “feminine utility” aesthetic remains incredibly wearable and equally desirable.

Marc jacobs ss 2015 muse board final
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References

Richard Hamilton

Just what was it that made today’s homes so different, so appealing?, 1956

Richard hamilton  just what was it that made today   s homes so different  so appealing   1956

Ettore Sottsass

Mobile Giallo Cabinet, 1988

5f0baa63 d9a4 4d89 9bc8 fbbc0dbf4777 g 570

Martin Kippenberger

Untitled, 1989

Martin kippenberger untitled 1989

Frank Lloyd Wright

Desk Chair, 1936-37

Frank lloyd wright  desk chair  1936 37

Guy Bourdin

French Vogue, 1970

Guy bourdin 15 x marc jacobs ss 2015

R. Buckminster Fuller

Fly’s Eye Dome, 1961, fabricated ca. 1980

R. buckminster fuller  fly   s eye dome  1961  fabricated ca. 1980

Carole Itter

Chicken Box #3, 1974

Carole itter  chicken box  3  1974

Christian Dior by Marc Bohan

Cocktail Dress, Fall/Winter 1969

Scannable document on jun 23  2019 at 4 42 55 pm

Alighiero Boetti

Untitled (Venticinque per venticinque), 1989

Alighiero boetti  untitled  venticinque per venticinque   1989

Peter Knapp

Emanuel Ungaro Dress, Stern Magazine, 1967

Peter knapp  emanuel ungaro dress  stern magazine  1967

Bruno Munari

Cockpit Habitable Structure, 1971

Bruno munari  cockpit habitable structure  1971

Carles Riart

Desnuda Chair, 1973

Carles riart desnuda chair  1973

Gabriel Orozco

La DS Cornaline, 2013

Gabriel orozco  la ds cornaline  2013

Man Ray

Glass Tears, 1932

Glass tears  1932   man ray

Hans Coray

Landi Chair, 1938

Hans coray  landi chair  1938

Jiro Takamatsu

Mystery Cans (also known as Shelter Plan, HRC Hi Red Cans), 1964

Hi red center. mystery cans  also known as shelter plan  hrc hi red cans . 1964

Joe Colombo

Mini Kitchen, 1963

Joe colombo  mini kitchen  1963

Mario Botta

Casa Montagnola, 1989-1994

Mario botta  casa montagnola  1989 1994

Frank Lloyd Wright

S.C. Johnson and Son Administration Building Desk, 1938

Rare desk  pictured  and chair from the s.c. johnson and son administration building  1938

Robert Venturi & Denise Scott Brown

George Wislocki House, Nantucket Island, Massachusetts, 1971

Robert venturi   denise scott brown     george wislocki house     nantucket island  massachusetts  usa     1971

Anna Castelli Ferrieri for Kartell

The Componibili modular container system, 1967

The componibili modular container system designed by anna castelli ferrieri for kartell in 1967  square
References
Richard hamilton  just what was it that made today   s homes so different  so appealing   1956

Richard Hamilton

Just what was it that made today’s homes so different, so appealing?, 1956

1 of 21

5f0baa63 d9a4 4d89 9bc8 fbbc0dbf4777 g 570

Ettore Sottsass

Mobile Giallo Cabinet, 1988

2 of 21

Martin kippenberger untitled 1989

Martin Kippenberger

Untitled, 1989

3 of 21

Frank lloyd wright  desk chair  1936 37

Frank Lloyd Wright

Desk Chair, 1936-37

4 of 21

Guy bourdin 15 x marc jacobs ss 2015

Guy Bourdin

French Vogue, 1970

5 of 21

R. buckminster fuller  fly   s eye dome  1961  fabricated ca. 1980

R. Buckminster Fuller

Fly’s Eye Dome, 1961, fabricated ca. 1980

6 of 21

Carole itter  chicken box  3  1974

Carole Itter

Chicken Box #3, 1974

7 of 21

Scannable document on jun 23  2019 at 4 42 55 pm

Christian Dior by Marc Bohan

Cocktail Dress, Fall/Winter 1969

8 of 21

Alighiero boetti  untitled  venticinque per venticinque   1989

Alighiero Boetti

Untitled (Venticinque per venticinque), 1989

9 of 21

Peter knapp  emanuel ungaro dress  stern magazine  1967

Peter Knapp

Emanuel Ungaro Dress, Stern Magazine, 1967

10 of 21

Bruno munari  cockpit habitable structure  1971

Bruno Munari

Cockpit Habitable Structure, 1971

11 of 21

Carles riart desnuda chair  1973

Carles Riart

Desnuda Chair, 1973

12 of 21

Gabriel orozco  la ds cornaline  2013

Gabriel Orozco

La DS Cornaline, 2013

13 of 21

Glass tears  1932   man ray

Man Ray

Glass Tears, 1932

14 of 21

Hans coray  landi chair  1938

Hans Coray

Landi Chair, 1938

15 of 21

Hi red center. mystery cans  also known as shelter plan  hrc hi red cans . 1964

Jiro Takamatsu

Mystery Cans (also known as Shelter Plan, HRC Hi Red Cans), 1964

16 of 21

Joe colombo  mini kitchen  1963

Joe Colombo

Mini Kitchen, 1963

17 of 21

Mario botta  casa montagnola  1989 1994

Mario Botta

Casa Montagnola, 1989-1994

18 of 21

Rare desk  pictured  and chair from the s.c. johnson and son administration building  1938

Frank Lloyd Wright

S.C. Johnson and Son Administration Building Desk, 1938

19 of 21

Robert venturi   denise scott brown     george wislocki house     nantucket island  massachusetts  usa     1971

Robert Venturi & Denise Scott Brown

George Wislocki House, Nantucket Island, Massachusetts, 1971

20 of 21

The componibili modular container system designed by anna castelli ferrieri for kartell in 1967  square

Anna Castelli Ferrieri for Kartell

The Componibili modular container system, 1967

21 of 21


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