After seasons of closing New York Fashion Week at Manhattan’s palatial Lexington Avenue Armory, Marc Jacobs went rogue for spring/summer 2016, presenting his collection at the Ziegfeld, New York’s oldest surviving single-screen theater. Jacobs approached his evening presentation like a proper Hollywood spectacle, complete with an extensive red carpet, swarms of ‘everyday’ fans, a branded step-and-repeat, and popcorn, candy and drinks for invited guests inside.
The new venue seemingly inspired the runway show’s authentic staging as much as it did the collection’s garments; an exuberant offering of visual love letters to old Hollywood cinema and classic notions of America. The season’s primarily red, white and blue color pallet was livened with cinematic prints and emblems; many of such patterns utilized Pop art visuals and the technique of repetition akin to that of Andy Warhol. Further odes to archetypal Americana culture were suggested in the show’s band uniforms, Western-style accessories and various bejeweled varsity jackets.
From denim, tweed, fringe and feathers, to Schiaparelli-esque eveningwear and an abundance of the brand’s trademark sequin numbers, when broken apart, there were pieces to satisfy any shopper’s appetite for consumerism. In classic Jacobs fashion, the show’s styling denoted elements of high and low culture, from models embodying old Hollywood glamour to less enchanting show girls, and individual looks that paired modified sweatshirts with heavily embroidered skirts, each of these subtle contradictions complimented each other in a dense and dramatic fashion; a fantastic spectacle honoring and celebrating the great city of New York.