For the Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2014 Runway Show, Miuccia Prada vocally and symbolically reckoned with the “classics”. In a way, she paid homage to styles that have defined the past, but more so, the show questions what we associate with classics. Prada is interested in how a style, garment, or accessory can become such a thing. And finally, the designer dares to wonder what might happen when all these classics come together.
The show opens on a set designed by OMA, the architectural organization started by Rem Koolhaas. Bright colored lights typical of high fashion runway are offset by patterned wallpaper and unexpected textures. The floor moves from shiny vinyl, to checkards, to soft, colored carpeting. It is an eclecticism that quite literally sets the stage for the collection to come.
When the Miu Miu looks begin to come down the runway, Prada’s fearless color-blocking (that feels quite relevant today) is immediately noticeable. The designer seems to play gleefully with these complementary and unexpected color combinations. At first, jewel toned Mary-Janes appear consistently over white lace tights. Classic. And in a way that is both girlish and high fashion. Once again, Miuccia Prada is striving to complicate our view on “femininity”. Meanwhile, collared coats with large buttons take center stage.
But as the models continue down the runway, Miuccia’s looks become increasingly eclectic. Patterns appear-- artistic ones of faces, flowers, and cats. Those little mary-janes become suede boots that lace up to the knee (some are even sequined). White lace tights take on colors like turquoise and orange. They’re now complemented by bold, wedge sandals. What makes the collection so striking is the multitude of elements that contribute to these somehow refined looks. Funky silhouettes bring an element of structure in details from skirts and coats to bags and shoes. Sheer lace tops and button-downs are layered atop one another. Prada brings us fur jackets in spring colors. And vinyl was not only another relevant material at use, but perhaps a mood for the collection as a whole.
The end of the show introduces both 80s balloon silhouette and sequined slip dresses. Decorated in similar color and patterns, these mini dresses are decorated with beaded tassels that finally become fringe on skirts. Miuccia Prada offers up a platter overflowing with classics from 1960s outerwear to 1920s glam. With this Miu Miu collection, a collision of all we thought we knew, Prada leaves our hearts nostalgic and our senses swimming in the designer’s creative vision.