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Miu Miu S/S 2014

Art / Architecture / Design / Fashion

For the Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2014 Runway Show, Miuccia Prada vocally and symbolically reckoned with the “classics”. In a way, she paid homage to styles that have defined the past, but more so, the show questions what we associate with classics. Prada is interested in how a style, garment, or accessory can become such a thing. And finally, the designer dares to wonder what might happen when all these classics come together.


Posted April 13th, 2020 By Colby Mugrabi

The show opens on a set designed by OMA, the architectural organization started by Rem Koolhaas. Bright colored lights typical of high fashion runway are offset by patterned wallpaper and unexpected textures. The floor moves from shiny vinyl, to checkards, to soft, colored carpeting. It is an eclecticism that quite literally sets the stage for the collection to come.

When the Miu Miu looks begin to come down the runway, Prada’s fearless color-blocking (that feels quite relevant today) is immediately noticeable. The designer seems to play gleefully with these complementary and unexpected color combinations. At first, jewel toned Mary-Janes appear consistently over white lace tights. Classic. And in a way that is both girlish and high fashion. Once again, Miuccia Prada is striving to complicate our view on “femininity”. Meanwhile, collared coats with large buttons take center stage.

But as the models continue down the runway, Miuccia’s looks become increasingly eclectic. Patterns appear-- artistic ones of faces, flowers, and cats. Those little mary-janes become suede boots that lace up to the knee (some are even sequined). White lace tights take on colors like turquoise and orange. They’re now complemented by bold, wedge sandals. What makes the collection so striking is the multitude of elements that contribute to these somehow refined looks. Funky silhouettes bring an element of structure in details from skirts and coats to bags and shoes. Sheer lace tops and button-downs are layered atop one another. Prada brings us fur jackets in spring colors. And vinyl was not only another relevant material at use, but perhaps a mood for the collection as a whole.

The end of the show introduces both 80s balloon silhouette and sequined slip dresses. Decorated in similar color and patterns, these mini dresses are decorated with beaded tassels that finally become fringe on skirts. Miuccia Prada offers up a platter overflowing with classics from 1960s outerwear to 1920s glam. With this Miu Miu collection, a collision of all we thought we knew, Prada leaves our hearts nostalgic and our senses swimming in the designer’s creative vision.

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References
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Josef Albers

Homage to the Square- With Rays, 1959

Josef albers  homage to the square  with rays  1959

Christian Dior

'Tourterelle' Evening Dress, FW 1948

Christian dior   tourterelle  evening dress  fw 1948

Hilma af Klint

The Ten Largest, No. 3, Ungdommen; Youth, Group IV, 1907

Hilma af klint  the ten largest  no. 3  ungdommen  youth  group iv  1907

Herbert Levine

Lace-Up Boots, 1964

Herbert levine  lace up boots  1964

Hector Guimard

Large Chandelier, 1900

Hector guimard  large chandelier  1900

Elsa Schiaparelli and Jean Cocteau

Evening Coat (Detail), 1937

Elsa schiaparelli and jean cocteau  evening coat  detail   1937

Gustave Serrurier-Bovy

Cabinet-Vitrine, 1899

Gustave serrurier bovy  cabinet vitrine  1899

Colorful Tights

US Vogue, February 1967

Colorful tights  us vogue  february 1967

André Courrèges

Mod Ensemble, 1960s

Andre   courre  ges  mod ensemble  1960s

André Courrèges

Vinyl Coat in L'officiel, 1968

Andre   courre  ges  vinyl coat in l officiel  1968

Agnes Martin

Untitled #3, 1974

Agnes martin  untitled  3  1974

Julie de Graag

Sitting Cat, 1918

Julie de graag  sitting cat  1918

Liberty London

Shepherdly Flowers Pattern Fabric

Liberty london  shepherdly flowers pattern fabric

Mary Tuthill Lindheim

Blue Mother and Child, 1966

Mary tuthill lindheim  blue mother and child  1966

Peter Behrens

Jugendstil Table Lamp, 1902

Peter behrens  jugendstil table lamp  1902

Peter Behrens

Spherical Vase, 1901

Peter behrens  spherical vase  1901

Peter Behrens

The Kiss, 1898

Peter behrens  the kiss  1898

Walter von Ruckteschell

Desk Chair, 1925

Walter von ruckteschell  desk chair  1925

William De Morgan

Ruby Lustre Fish Tile, 1885

William de morgan  ruby lustre fish tile  1885
References
Josef albers  homage to the square  with rays  1959

Josef Albers

Homage to the Square- With Rays, 1959

1 of 19

Christian dior   tourterelle  evening dress  fw 1948

Christian Dior

'Tourterelle' Evening Dress, FW 1948

2 of 19

Hilma af klint  the ten largest  no. 3  ungdommen  youth  group iv  1907

Hilma af Klint

The Ten Largest, No. 3, Ungdommen; Youth, Group IV, 1907

3 of 19

Herbert levine  lace up boots  1964

Herbert Levine

Lace-Up Boots, 1964

4 of 19

Hector guimard  large chandelier  1900

Hector Guimard

Large Chandelier, 1900

5 of 19

Elsa schiaparelli and jean cocteau  evening coat  detail   1937

Elsa Schiaparelli and Jean Cocteau

Evening Coat (Detail), 1937

6 of 19

Gustave serrurier bovy  cabinet vitrine  1899

Gustave Serrurier-Bovy

Cabinet-Vitrine, 1899

7 of 19

Colorful tights  us vogue  february 1967

Colorful Tights

US Vogue, February 1967

8 of 19

Andre   courre  ges  mod ensemble  1960s

André Courrèges

Mod Ensemble, 1960s

9 of 19

Andre   courre  ges  vinyl coat in l officiel  1968

André Courrèges

Vinyl Coat in L'officiel, 1968

10 of 19

Agnes martin  untitled  3  1974

Agnes Martin

Untitled #3, 1974

11 of 19

Julie de graag  sitting cat  1918

Julie de Graag

Sitting Cat, 1918

12 of 19

Liberty london  shepherdly flowers pattern fabric

Liberty London

Shepherdly Flowers Pattern Fabric

13 of 19

Mary tuthill lindheim  blue mother and child  1966

Mary Tuthill Lindheim

Blue Mother and Child, 1966

14 of 19

Peter behrens  jugendstil table lamp  1902

Peter Behrens

Jugendstil Table Lamp, 1902

15 of 19

Peter behrens  spherical vase  1901

Peter Behrens

Spherical Vase, 1901

16 of 19

Peter behrens  the kiss  1898

Peter Behrens

The Kiss, 1898

17 of 19

Walter von ruckteschell  desk chair  1925

Walter von Ruckteschell

Desk Chair, 1925

18 of 19

William de morgan  ruby lustre fish tile  1885

William De Morgan

Ruby Lustre Fish Tile, 1885

19 of 19


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