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Proenza Schouler S/S 2010

Art / Architecture / Design / Fashion

Through color, pattern, delicate detailing, and feminine silhouettes, designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler took a break from the brand’s neutral palettes and sophisticated separates, opting instead for a fun, sporty aesthetic perfect for summertime.


Posted July 14th, 2019 By Colby Mugrabi

The brand’s spring/summer 2010 collection drew inspiration from surfing and skateboarding, offering a youth-oriented vision of casual and colorful dressing. Surfing, which has had a strong association with teenage culture since the Frankie Avalon Beach Party films of the 1960s, was given a high fashion overhaul. Rash guard scuba shirts, racerback tanks, and built-in jackets tied around the waist as skirts – adding elements of casual-cool and esteemed craftsmanship – all contributed to the brand’s psychedelic, sporty look of the season.

The entire collection, in fact, seems aimed at the “cool girl” clientele the brand has fostered since it’s founding in 2002, with delicate detailing and tailored blazers elevating everyday sportswear from relaxed to chic. Adding to the season’s youthful glow were the silhouettes, short and asymmetrical in most cases, oftentimes decorated with colorful trims, each look had definitive notions of modernity and cheer. The brand’s signature bra cup bodices made an appearance, acting as bikini tops in some cases and, when combined with hiked-up skirts, morph into flirty, babydoll dresses in others.

Most striking about the collection, however, was the season’s vibrant palette and innovative patterns. Animal prints were translated into colorful, tie-dye Rorschach tests, while others were cleverly book-matched and embellished atop with feathers, ruffles, and sequins. Furthermore, the collection employed batik, an age-old method of applying dye-resistant wax to the fabric before dying in order to create patterns, which originated in Indonesia. To finish off each look, models strutted atop sky-high, colorful woven wedges, while their natural makeup and beach-y waves added to the show’s elevated, suffer girl aesthetic.

Overall, the theme of spring/summer 2010 was summer fun. Despite associations with the 1960s, from beach movies to mod dresses, the collection represented a modern vision of youth: one that needs not to choose between sporty and sophisticated, girly and chic, day and eveningwear. Proenza Schouler’s collection projects the message that, at least in 2010, women can be all of these things at once.

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References
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Alexander McQueen

Voss, Spring/Summer 2001

Alexander mcqueen   voss  spring summer 2001

Bridget Riley

Héros montant et descendant, 1965

Bridget riley  he  ros montant et descendant  1965

Hiro Wakabayashi

Harper's Bazaar, July 1969

Hiro wakabayashi for harper s bazaar  july 1969

Marc Newson

Gello Table, 1994

Marc newson  gello table  1994

Takeshi Murata

Cone Eater (still), 2003

Takeshi murata  cone eater  still   2003

Wolfgang Tillmans

Blautopf, Baum, 2001

Wolfgang tillmans  blautopf  baum  2001

Peter Cook and Colin Fournier

Kunsthaus, Graz, Austria, 2003

Peter cook and colin fournier  kunsthaus  graz  austria  2003

Joshua Citarella

Form Assumes the Container, 2013

Joshua citarella  form assumes the container  2013

Alexander McQueen

Coat, Jack the Ripper Stalks His Victims, Fall/Winter 1992

Alexander mcqueen  coat   jack the ripper stalks his victims  fw 1992

Alexander McQueen

Detail of coat (back), Voss, Spring/Summer 2001

Alexander mcqueen  detail of coat  back    voss  spring summer 2001

Balenciaga

Spring/Summer 2006

Balenciaga ss 2006

Hiro Wakabayashi

Harper's Bazaar, 1965

Hiro wakabayashi for harper s bazaar 1965

Jacqueline Humphries

:) :) :) :), 2016

Jacqueline humphries

Jacqueline Humphries

Sampler, 2005

Jacqueline humphries  sampler  2005

Junichi Arai

Textile

Junichi arai  textile

Marc Newson

Cloisonné Blue Desk, 2017

Marc newson  cloisonne   blue desk  2017

Victor Vasarely

Vonal-Stri, 1975-1991

Victor vasarely  vonal stri  1975 1991
References
Alexander mcqueen   voss  spring summer 2001

Alexander McQueen

Voss, Spring/Summer 2001

1 of 18

Bridget riley  he  ros montant et descendant  1965

Bridget Riley

Héros montant et descendant, 1965

2 of 18

Hiro wakabayashi for harper s bazaar  july 1969

Hiro Wakabayashi

Harper's Bazaar, July 1969

3 of 18

Marc newson  gello table  1994

Marc Newson

Gello Table, 1994

4 of 18

Takeshi murata  cone eater  still   2003

Takeshi Murata

Cone Eater (still), 2003

5 of 18

Wolfgang tillmans  blautopf  baum  2001

Wolfgang Tillmans

Blautopf, Baum, 2001

6 of 18

Peter cook and colin fournier  kunsthaus  graz  austria  2003

Peter Cook and Colin Fournier

Kunsthaus, Graz, Austria, 2003

7 of 18

Joshua citarella  form assumes the container  2013

Joshua Citarella

Form Assumes the Container, 2013

8 of 18

Alexander mcqueen  coat   jack the ripper stalks his victims  fw 1992

Alexander McQueen

Coat, Jack the Ripper Stalks His Victims, Fall/Winter 1992

9 of 18

Alexander mcqueen  detail of coat  back    voss  spring summer 2001

Alexander McQueen

Detail of coat (back), Voss, Spring/Summer 2001

10 of 18

Balenciaga ss 2006

Balenciaga

Spring/Summer 2006

11 of 18

Hiro wakabayashi for harper s bazaar 1965

Hiro Wakabayashi

Harper's Bazaar, 1965

13 of 18

Jacqueline humphries

Jacqueline Humphries

:) :) :) :), 2016

14 of 18

Jacqueline humphries  sampler  2005

Jacqueline Humphries

Sampler, 2005

15 of 18

Junichi arai  textile

Junichi Arai

Textile

16 of 18

Marc newson  cloisonne   blue desk  2017

Marc Newson

Cloisonné Blue Desk, 2017

17 of 18

Victor vasarely  vonal stri  1975 1991

Victor Vasarely

Vonal-Stri, 1975-1991

18 of 18


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