Thom Browne’s consistent design methodology is grounded in precise craftsmanship and couture-level construction, often accompanied by techniques and patterns that embody the designer’s tendency towards surrealism. For Fall/Winter 2017, Browne exhibited these trademark attributes through a collection focused on tailoring and unconventional forms of embellishment, set in a grayscale winter wonderland – penguins and ice skates included.
As the show commenced, models sauntered mechanically atop the fabric-covered ice rink runway, revealing a slew of monochromatic ensembles accompanied by white collared shirts and masculine neck ties hidden beneath layers of perfectly tailored outwear. Browne’s ubiquitous toying with exaggerated and shrunken proportions was omnipresent, exhibited through smaller-than-normal blazers and cropped sweaters contrasted by elongated sleeves and protruding white cuffs; secured to model’s thumbs as if taking on the role of fingerless gloves.
Stripes, argyle and houndstooth proved featured patterns for fall/winter 2017, as did the collection’s unique penguin motif, all of which were rendered atop relaxed knits, everyday suiting and elaborate outwear utilizing couture-like construction techniques. As the seemingly grayscale collection progressed, the pallet evolved to include primary colors - red, blue, green and yellow – namely atop trompe l’oeil outerwear, quilted garments and color-blocked ensembles.
If the show were divided into three acts, the third and final sequence featured blissfully inventive black and white eveningwear. With each model’s neck and ice-skates-turned-heels accessorized by a black bowtie, the collection’s fabrication techniques and forms of embellishment became all the more elaborate; seen through inside out outerwear exposing a jacket’s interior construction, hundreds of strips of loose tulle, and garments adorned with thousands of mother of pearl buttons.
The show closed with a pair of models outfitted in likeminded puffer jacket evening ensembles, one equipped with a complimentary train. Were they two brides or two grooms? Ever the master showman, Browne left it to the audience to decide.
![Thom browne fw 2017 muse board](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/4Iiqp1W56wk62qII0mkkkK/86ab6ec223da183e66fc7df65cdab60f/Thom_Browne_FW_2017_Muse_Board.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
References
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Andy Warhol
Do It Yourself (Seascape), 1962
![Andy warhol do it yourself seascape 1962](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3CkLUNpUYUaIikAuOaEEoA/723c905c2b2267440cb1727a9dbdcb47/Andy_Warhol__Do_It_Yourself__Seascape___1962.jpg)
Man Ray
Palettable, 1940-1971
![Man ray palettable 1940 1971](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3QoY8u0otaAokGuIiuoA0w/205975eaf88d505f2e65a7b30a31cfbe/Man_Ray__Palettable__1940-1971.jpg)
Jean Paul Gaultier
Fall/ Winter 1993
![Jean paul gaultier fall winter 1993](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5DuMAdJ0m4OYaeEGC60GaU/c362e4ee07480ca190a778fdd48a4b56/Jean_Paul_Gaultier__Fall_Winter_1993.jpg)
Michel Dufet
Desk, 1928
![Michel dufet desk 1928](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/u6Ne4WzIEoCyskCoGUqSW/b68c8e5b818085a52ebd454239797e13/Michel_Dufet__Desk__1928.jpg)
Paul Dupré-Lafon
Ski Bar, 1929
![Paul dupre lafon ski bar 1929](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3e1mpaEsl2cUO6q2cQ4EIc/ef63e3f55edf899c9da7ca268e020a25/Paul_Dupre__-Lafon__Ski_Bar__1929.jpg)
Vue Magazine
Portrait Of Marcel Duchamp and Ann Miller’s leg in leopard-skin shorts and shoes, November 1954
![Portrait of marcel duchamp ann miller s leg in leopard skin shorts and shoes makes a soothing smoke vue november](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/2jzcGEX05C42aYE8eUcs6Y/3b75417801a75156a99eebbc9b11831c/Portrait_Of_Marcel_Duchamp__Ann_Miller___s_leg_in_leopard-skin_shorts_and_shoes_makes_a_soothing_smoke_____Vue_____November.jpeg)
Alexander McQueen
Fall/ Winter 1999
![Alexander mcqueen fall winter 1999](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6B2YyPI4ikg800wkywQgUU/9ca3d04f0e10f3f5800dfb4eb4fe64da/Alexander_McQueen__Fall_Winter_1999.jpg)
Bernd & Hilla Becher
Coal Bunkers, 1974
![Bernd hilla becher coal bunkers 1974](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/1ckGF5ETaKaSW6QS6CYkya/1f9ffd8a1fce235b37c06e8ce67469a5/Bernd___Hilla_Becher__Coal_Bunkers__1974.jpg)
Helmut Newton
Balenciaga 'Papacha' Coat, French Vogue, November 1964
![Helmut newton balenciaga papacha coat french vogue november 1964](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/l3T0xXirBug2wYQwE04Oq/c9e7ccfedf3e0d9b9356a6ef9db63d2b/Helmut_Newton__Balenciaga__Papacha__Coat__French_Vogue__November__1964.jpg)
Jan Gouwetor
Rug, 1922
Jean Dunand
Art Deco Coquille d'Oeuf and Black Lacquered Vase, 1925
![Jean dunand art deco coquille d oeuf and black lacquered vase 1925](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/76pre9gnIIcy2wsiE2AiaI/0c66afb9aad2ae8b34695016a32dd067/Jean_Dunand__Art_Deco_Coquille_d_Oeuf_and_Black_Lacquered_Vase__1925.jpg)
Man Ray
La Fortune, 1938
![Man ray la fortune 1938](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/77ttze9MYMCUoS8o8mSICS/773da19d6fa3f4397011d666eb85e87b/Man_Ray__La_Fortune__1938.jpg)
Óscar Domínguez
Maquina de Coser Electrosexuel, 1934-35
![Oscar dominguez maquina de coser electrosexuel 1934 35](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3UPZI04NOgwSm6k6eISW6q/ca28197395b18bd1512ab215439ec276/Oscar_Dominguez__Maquina_de_Coser_Electrosexuel__1934-35.jpg)
Osvaldo Borsani
L77 Daybed, 1956
![Osvaldo borsani l77 daybed 1956](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3FgAXB0Hbq6gOuU4CkcKM8/4cc1a5fa350dfb62e83e2afa7610d4e2/Osvaldo_Borsani__L77_daybed__1956.jpg)
Paul T. Frankl
'Skyscraper' Bookcase, 1926
![Paul t. frankl skyscraper bookcase 1926](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/1xL6ZnZsXKsyk2ksE2wSmM/c94aed0154dd73865393b0e7df8e4c8c/Paul_T._Frankl___Skyscraper__Bookcase__1926.jpg)
Piet Mondrian
Composition with Yellow, Blue and Red, 1942
![Piet mondrian composition with yellow blue and red 1942](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3HUVXyaphSm6uaACyGOQek/ff4e0c1845386bf2651ddfbd96e30700/Piet_Mondrian__Composition_with_Yellow__Blue_and_Red__1942.jpg)
Robert Mallet-Stevens
Hotel Particulier, 1927
![Robert mallet stevens hotel particulier 1927](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/492nytSEhqSumOsik6QiSK/d63efdc18c76064ad2e57d90c29d7476/Robert_Mallet-Stevens__Hotel_Particulier__1927.png)
Roy Lichtenstein
Sunrise, 1965
![Roy lichtenstein sunrise 1965](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/4YemlEQbz2mK8KEswSoeu8/e58ca7183f40329bb639aa57a02d20a0/Roy_Lichtenstein__Sunrise__1965.jpg)
References
![Andy warhol do it yourself seascape 1962](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3CkLUNpUYUaIikAuOaEEoA/723c905c2b2267440cb1727a9dbdcb47/Andy_Warhol__Do_It_Yourself__Seascape___1962.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Andy Warhol
Do It Yourself (Seascape), 1962
1 of 19
![Man ray palettable 1940 1971](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3QoY8u0otaAokGuIiuoA0w/205975eaf88d505f2e65a7b30a31cfbe/Man_Ray__Palettable__1940-1971.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Man Ray
Palettable, 1940-1971
2 of 19
![Jean paul gaultier fall winter 1993](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/5DuMAdJ0m4OYaeEGC60GaU/c362e4ee07480ca190a778fdd48a4b56/Jean_Paul_Gaultier__Fall_Winter_1993.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Jean Paul Gaultier
Fall/ Winter 1993
3 of 19
![Michel dufet desk 1928](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/u6Ne4WzIEoCyskCoGUqSW/b68c8e5b818085a52ebd454239797e13/Michel_Dufet__Desk__1928.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Michel Dufet
Desk, 1928
4 of 19
![Paul dupre lafon ski bar 1929](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3e1mpaEsl2cUO6q2cQ4EIc/ef63e3f55edf899c9da7ca268e020a25/Paul_Dupre__-Lafon__Ski_Bar__1929.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Paul Dupré-Lafon
Ski Bar, 1929
5 of 19
![Portrait of marcel duchamp ann miller s leg in leopard skin shorts and shoes makes a soothing smoke vue november](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/2jzcGEX05C42aYE8eUcs6Y/3b75417801a75156a99eebbc9b11831c/Portrait_Of_Marcel_Duchamp__Ann_Miller___s_leg_in_leopard-skin_shorts_and_shoes_makes_a_soothing_smoke_____Vue_____November.jpeg?w=1000&q=70)
Vue Magazine
Portrait Of Marcel Duchamp and Ann Miller’s leg in leopard-skin shorts and shoes, November 1954
7 of 19
![Alexander mcqueen fall winter 1999](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/6B2YyPI4ikg800wkywQgUU/9ca3d04f0e10f3f5800dfb4eb4fe64da/Alexander_McQueen__Fall_Winter_1999.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Alexander McQueen
Fall/ Winter 1999
8 of 19
![Bernd hilla becher coal bunkers 1974](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/1ckGF5ETaKaSW6QS6CYkya/1f9ffd8a1fce235b37c06e8ce67469a5/Bernd___Hilla_Becher__Coal_Bunkers__1974.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Bernd & Hilla Becher
Coal Bunkers, 1974
9 of 19
![Helmut newton balenciaga papacha coat french vogue november 1964](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/l3T0xXirBug2wYQwE04Oq/c9e7ccfedf3e0d9b9356a6ef9db63d2b/Helmut_Newton__Balenciaga__Papacha__Coat__French_Vogue__November__1964.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Helmut Newton
Balenciaga 'Papacha' Coat, French Vogue, November 1964
10 of 19
Jan Gouwetor
Rug, 1922
11 of 19
![Jean dunand art deco coquille d oeuf and black lacquered vase 1925](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/76pre9gnIIcy2wsiE2AiaI/0c66afb9aad2ae8b34695016a32dd067/Jean_Dunand__Art_Deco_Coquille_d_Oeuf_and_Black_Lacquered_Vase__1925.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Jean Dunand
Art Deco Coquille d'Oeuf and Black Lacquered Vase, 1925
12 of 19
![Man ray la fortune 1938](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/77ttze9MYMCUoS8o8mSICS/773da19d6fa3f4397011d666eb85e87b/Man_Ray__La_Fortune__1938.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Man Ray
La Fortune, 1938
13 of 19
![Oscar dominguez maquina de coser electrosexuel 1934 35](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3UPZI04NOgwSm6k6eISW6q/ca28197395b18bd1512ab215439ec276/Oscar_Dominguez__Maquina_de_Coser_Electrosexuel__1934-35.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Óscar Domínguez
Maquina de Coser Electrosexuel, 1934-35
14 of 19
![Osvaldo borsani l77 daybed 1956](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3FgAXB0Hbq6gOuU4CkcKM8/4cc1a5fa350dfb62e83e2afa7610d4e2/Osvaldo_Borsani__L77_daybed__1956.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Osvaldo Borsani
L77 Daybed, 1956
15 of 19
![Paul t. frankl skyscraper bookcase 1926](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/1xL6ZnZsXKsyk2ksE2wSmM/c94aed0154dd73865393b0e7df8e4c8c/Paul_T._Frankl___Skyscraper__Bookcase__1926.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Paul T. Frankl
'Skyscraper' Bookcase, 1926
16 of 19
![Piet mondrian composition with yellow blue and red 1942](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/3HUVXyaphSm6uaACyGOQek/ff4e0c1845386bf2651ddfbd96e30700/Piet_Mondrian__Composition_with_Yellow__Blue_and_Red__1942.jpg?w=1000&q=70)
Piet Mondrian
Composition with Yellow, Blue and Red, 1942
17 of 19
![Robert mallet stevens hotel particulier 1927](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/492nytSEhqSumOsik6QiSK/d63efdc18c76064ad2e57d90c29d7476/Robert_Mallet-Stevens__Hotel_Particulier__1927.png?w=1000&q=70)
Robert Mallet-Stevens
Hotel Particulier, 1927
18 of 19
![Roy lichtenstein sunrise 1965](http://images.ctfassets.net/nonm77rtn1g8/4YemlEQbz2mK8KEswSoeu8/e58ca7183f40329bb639aa57a02d20a0/Roy_Lichtenstein__Sunrise__1965.jpg?w=1000&q=70)