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Thom Browne F/W 2017

Art / Architecture / Design / Fashion

Thom Browne’s consistent design methodology is grounded in precise craftsmanship and couture-level construction, often accompanied by techniques and patterns that embody the designer’s tendency towards surrealism. For Fall/Winter 2017, Browne exhibited these trademark attributes through a collection focused on tailoring and unconventional forms of embellishment, set in a grayscale winter wonderland – penguins and ice skates included.


Posted March 10th, 2019 By Colby Mugrabi

As the show commenced, models sauntered mechanically atop the fabric-covered ice rink runway, revealing a slew of monochromatic ensembles accompanied by white collared shirts and masculine neck ties hidden beneath layers of perfectly tailored outwear. Browne’s ubiquitous toying with exaggerated and shrunken proportions was omnipresent, exhibited through smaller-than-normal blazers and cropped sweaters contrasted by elongated sleeves and protruding white cuffs; secured to model’s thumbs as if taking on the role of fingerless gloves.

Stripes, argyle and houndstooth proved featured patterns for fall/winter 2017, as did the collection’s unique penguin motif, all of which were rendered atop relaxed knits, everyday suiting and elaborate outwear utilizing couture-like construction techniques. As the seemingly grayscale collection progressed, the pallet evolved to include primary colors - red, blue, green and yellow – namely atop trompe l’oeil outerwear, quilted garments and color-blocked ensembles.

If the show were divided into three acts, the third and final sequence featured blissfully inventive black and white eveningwear. With each model’s neck and ice-skates-turned-heels accessorized by a black bowtie, the collection’s fabrication techniques and forms of embellishment became all the more elaborate; seen through inside out outerwear exposing a jacket’s interior construction, hundreds of strips of loose tulle, and garments adorned with thousands of mother of pearl buttons.

The show closed with a pair of models outfitted in likeminded puffer jacket evening ensembles, one equipped with a complimentary train. Were they two brides or two grooms? Ever the master showman, Browne left it to the audience to decide.

Thom browne fw 2017 muse board
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References

Andy Warhol

Do It Yourself (Seascape), 1962

Andy warhol  do it yourself  seascape   1962

Man Ray

Palettable, 1940-1971

Man ray  palettable  1940 1971

Jean Paul Gaultier

Fall/ Winter 1993

Jean paul gaultier  fall winter 1993

Michel Dufet

Desk, 1928

Michel dufet  desk  1928

Paul Dupré-Lafon

Ski Bar, 1929

Paul dupre   lafon  ski bar  1929

Louis Féraud

Louis fe  raud

Vue Magazine

Portrait Of Marcel Duchamp and Ann Miller’s leg in leopard-skin shorts and shoes, November 1954

Portrait of marcel duchamp  ann miller   s leg in leopard skin shorts and shoes makes a soothing smoke     vue     november

Alexander McQueen

Fall/ Winter 1999

Alexander mcqueen  fall winter 1999

Bernd & Hilla Becher

Coal Bunkers, 1974

Bernd   hilla becher  coal bunkers  1974

Helmut Newton

Balenciaga 'Papacha' Coat, French Vogue, November 1964

Helmut newton  balenciaga  papacha  coat  french vogue  november  1964

Jan Gouwetor

Rug, 1922

Jan gouwetor rug  1922

Jean Dunand

Art Deco Coquille d'Oeuf and Black Lacquered Vase, 1925

Jean dunand  art deco coquille d oeuf and black lacquered vase  1925

Man Ray

La Fortune, 1938

Man ray  la fortune  1938

Óscar Domínguez

Maquina de Coser Electrosexuel, 1934-35

Oscar dominguez  maquina de coser electrosexuel  1934 35

Osvaldo Borsani

L77 Daybed, 1956

Osvaldo borsani  l77 daybed  1956

Paul T. Frankl

'Skyscraper' Bookcase, 1926

Paul t. frankl   skyscraper  bookcase  1926

Piet Mondrian

Composition with Yellow, Blue and Red, 1942

Piet mondrian  composition with yellow  blue and red  1942

Robert Mallet-Stevens

Hotel Particulier, 1927

Robert mallet stevens  hotel particulier  1927

Roy Lichtenstein

Sunrise, 1965

Roy lichtenstein  sunrise  1965
References
Andy warhol  do it yourself  seascape   1962

Andy Warhol

Do It Yourself (Seascape), 1962

1 of 19

Man ray  palettable  1940 1971

Man Ray

Palettable, 1940-1971

2 of 19

Jean paul gaultier  fall winter 1993

Jean Paul Gaultier

Fall/ Winter 1993

3 of 19

Michel dufet  desk  1928

Michel Dufet

Desk, 1928

4 of 19

Paul dupre   lafon  ski bar  1929

Paul Dupré-Lafon

Ski Bar, 1929

5 of 19

Louis fe  raud

Louis Féraud

6 of 19

Portrait of marcel duchamp  ann miller   s leg in leopard skin shorts and shoes makes a soothing smoke     vue     november

Vue Magazine

Portrait Of Marcel Duchamp and Ann Miller’s leg in leopard-skin shorts and shoes, November 1954

7 of 19

Alexander mcqueen  fall winter 1999

Alexander McQueen

Fall/ Winter 1999

8 of 19

Bernd   hilla becher  coal bunkers  1974

Bernd & Hilla Becher

Coal Bunkers, 1974

9 of 19

Helmut newton  balenciaga  papacha  coat  french vogue  november  1964

Helmut Newton

Balenciaga 'Papacha' Coat, French Vogue, November 1964

10 of 19

Jan gouwetor rug  1922

Jan Gouwetor

Rug, 1922

11 of 19

Jean dunand  art deco coquille d oeuf and black lacquered vase  1925

Jean Dunand

Art Deco Coquille d'Oeuf and Black Lacquered Vase, 1925

12 of 19

Man ray  la fortune  1938

Man Ray

La Fortune, 1938

13 of 19

Oscar dominguez  maquina de coser electrosexuel  1934 35

Óscar Domínguez

Maquina de Coser Electrosexuel, 1934-35

14 of 19

Osvaldo borsani  l77 daybed  1956

Osvaldo Borsani

L77 Daybed, 1956

15 of 19

Paul t. frankl   skyscraper  bookcase  1926

Paul T. Frankl

'Skyscraper' Bookcase, 1926

16 of 19

Piet mondrian  composition with yellow  blue and red  1942

Piet Mondrian

Composition with Yellow, Blue and Red, 1942

17 of 19

Robert mallet stevens  hotel particulier  1927

Robert Mallet-Stevens

Hotel Particulier, 1927

18 of 19

Roy lichtenstein  sunrise  1965

Roy Lichtenstein

Sunrise, 1965

19 of 19


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