Some fashion houses utilize trademark iconography to lay claim to clothing and accessory designs, others employ consistent design narratives from season-to-season to develop a particular, idiosyncratic aesthetic.
Since launching womenswear in 2011, Thom Browne has exhibited an affinity for trompe l’oeil, frequently utilizing this construction technique within his men’s and women’s collections. The American designer’s fondness for experimenting with visual allusions reached its climax for spring/summer 2017. Each of the collection’s 31 masterfully constructed, playful garments toyed with this sophisticated construction method. Layering, pleating, draping, lapels, bowties, and bows were mere illusions in thanks to Browne’s fanciful flattening of the ‘pictorial’ – or rather, ‘garment’ – plane. Tweeds, checkered print, colorful gingham, sequins and floral appliqué made for tremendous variation between looks, while maintaining an air of elevated sophistication. A cheeky interpretation of classic springtime garments generated through the wondrous creative mind of Thom Browne.
References
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William “Billy” Haines
Interior
Slim Aarons
A desert house designed by Richard Neutra for Edgar J. Kaufmann, Palm Springs, California, January, 1970
David Hockney
A Bigger Splash, 1967
Josef Frank
Mille Fleurs Textile
Jean Royère
“Œuf” chair, 1950s
Elsa Schiaparelli
Trompe l’oeil Bow Tie Sweater, 1930s
Claes Oldenburg & Coosje van Bruggen
Project Model “Shuttlecocks”, 1993-94
Henri Matisse
The Parakeet and the Mermaid, 1952
William “Billy” Haines
Interior of Betsy Bloomingdale's Holmby Hills Home
Donald Judd
Untitled Prints, 1988-93
Jean Royère
Table d'Appoint, 1946
Jean-Charles de Castelbajac
Dress, 1994
Joel Meyerowitz
Florida, 1970
Gio Ponti
Lounge Chair, 1953
Elsa Schiaparelli
Trompe l’oeil Bowknot Sweater, 1927
William “Billy” Haines
Parrot Lamp, 1950s
Roberta di Caerino
Dress
Douglas Pollard
Illustration, Schiaparelli Bowknot Sweater, 1927
Elsa Schiaparelli
Trompe l’oeil Bow Tie Sweater, 1927
Thomas Ruff
Interior Colour Photograph, 1979
References
William “Billy” Haines
Interior
1 of 20
Slim Aarons
A desert house designed by Richard Neutra for Edgar J. Kaufmann, Palm Springs, California, January, 1970
2 of 20
David Hockney
A Bigger Splash, 1967
3 of 20
Josef Frank
Mille Fleurs Textile
4 of 20
Jean Royère
“Œuf” chair, 1950s
5 of 20
Elsa Schiaparelli
Trompe l’oeil Bow Tie Sweater, 1930s
6 of 20
Claes Oldenburg & Coosje van Bruggen
Project Model “Shuttlecocks”, 1993-94
7 of 20
Henri Matisse
The Parakeet and the Mermaid, 1952
8 of 20
William “Billy” Haines
Interior of Betsy Bloomingdale's Holmby Hills Home
9 of 20
Donald Judd
Untitled Prints, 1988-93
10 of 20
Jean Royère
Table d'Appoint, 1946
11 of 20
Jean-Charles de Castelbajac
Dress, 1994
12 of 20
Joel Meyerowitz
Florida, 1970
13 of 20
Gio Ponti
Lounge Chair, 1953
14 of 20
Elsa Schiaparelli
Trompe l’oeil Bowknot Sweater, 1927
15 of 20
William “Billy” Haines
Parrot Lamp, 1950s
16 of 20
Roberta di Caerino
Dress
17 of 20
Douglas Pollard
Illustration, Schiaparelli Bowknot Sweater, 1927
18 of 20
Elsa Schiaparelli
Trompe l’oeil Bow Tie Sweater, 1927
19 of 20
