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Yohji Yamamoto S/S 1999

Art / Architecture / Design / Fashion

On rare occasion, runway shows take place that transcend fashion and into the realm of performance art. While these unique instances occur with increasing scarcity, Yohji Yamamoto’s spring/summer 1999 presentation will forever serve as a preeminent example of such cases, having transported show-goers into a transitory state of uninterrupted artistic bliss.


Posted June 10th, 2018 By Colby Mugrabi

In the late 1990s, Yohji Yamamoto – fascinated by the complexities associated with the western tradition of weddings – presented two collections inspired by this theme. For spring/summer 1999, the latter of the two shows, Yamamoto maintained his position as a figurehead of avant-garde fashion, all while proving himself a hopelessly modern romantic. The designer showcased his curiosities surrounding tradition through the collection’s abstract narrative and exploration of nuptial dress.

While the show progressed in the manner of a wedding ceremony, with secondary male roles enacted by a select cast of accompanying men – including a cameo by André Leon Talley – abstract ritualistic moments were also conveyed through creative means. Female models sauntered down the open runway, transforming garments and undressing for all to witness. These simple, somewhat erotically driven acts of manipulating silhouettes or removing articles to reveal new garments below, was a creative means of illustrating the layers of stories and underlying intricacies associated with marriage. While the collection’s silhouettes were straightforward and the color pallet remained muted, Yamamoto, furthering his exploration into the various shades of black and white, the designer employed accessories as a primary means of experimentation. From romantic bouquets rendered in tulle and dramatic hats covered in feathers, to subtle while gloves and the occasional neckpiece, Yamamoto touched on every detail of a traditional wedding ceremony, exploring each facet with careful consideration and ease. This remarkable collection personifies the power and artistic potential of fashion, only to be made more moving by the emotional response of the audience, bursting, throughout the show, into episodes of uncontrollable applause.

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References

Umberto Bellotto

Red Glass Trumpet Vase in Floral Wrought Metal Base, 1920

Umberto bellotto  red glass trumpet vase in floral wrought metal base  1920

Dora Kallmus

Dancer, Anita Berber, 1923

Dora kallmus  dancer  anita berber  1923

Emile-Jacques Ruhlmann

Corner Cabinet, 1923

Emile jacques ruhlmann  corner cabinet  1923

Dora Kallmus

Helene Jamrich

Dora kallmus  helene jamrich

Marcel Duchamp with his Bride, Lydia Levassor

Marcel duchamp with his bride  lydia levassor

Fischli/ Weiss

The Three Sisters, 1984

Fischli weiss  the three sisters  1984

Jean-Michel Frank

Nelson Rockefeller Apartment, 1934

Jean michel frank  nelson rockefeller apartment  1934

Horst P. Horst

Cy Twombly. Untitled #5, 1966

Horst p. horst  cy twombly. untitled  5  1966

Dora Kallmus

D'Ora in Hat, 1910

Dora kallmus  d ora in hat  1910

Jean-Michel Frank

Cabinet, 1935

Jean michel frank  cabinet  1935

Henry van de Velde

Smoking Room,1895

Henry van de velde  smoking room 1895

Horst P. Horst

'Carmen Face Massage, New York', 1946

Horst p. horst   carmen face massage  new york   1946

Gio Ponti and Piero Fornasetti

Unique Cabinet, 1940

Gio ponti and piero fornasetti unique cabinet  1940

Horst P. Horst

Cy Twombly and Tatiana Franchetti,1966

Horst p. horst  cy twombly and tatiana franchetti 1966

Jean-Michel Frank

Library of Mimi Pecci-Blunt, 1926

Jean michel frank  library of mimi pecci blunt  1926

Peter Lindbergh for Vogue Italia, May 1998

Peter lindbergh for vogue italia  may 1998

Horst P. Horst

Birthday Gloves, New York, 1947

Horst p. horst  birthday gloves  new york  1947

Peter Lindbergh, Comme des Garcons, 1980

Peter lindbergh  comme des garcons  1980

Jean-Michel Frank

Smoking Room in Jean-Michel Frank's Apartment, Paris, 1925

Jean michel frank  smoking room in jean michel frank s apartment  paris  1925

Horst P. Horst

Mrs. Henry Middleton, the Sandra Payson

Horst p. horst  mrs. henry middleton  the sandra payson. photo by
References
Umberto bellotto  red glass trumpet vase in floral wrought metal base  1920

Umberto Bellotto

Red Glass Trumpet Vase in Floral Wrought Metal Base, 1920

1 of 20

Dora kallmus  dancer  anita berber  1923

Dora Kallmus

Dancer, Anita Berber, 1923

2 of 20

Emile jacques ruhlmann  corner cabinet  1923

Emile-Jacques Ruhlmann

Corner Cabinet, 1923

3 of 20

Dora kallmus  helene jamrich

Dora Kallmus

Helene Jamrich

4 of 20

Marcel duchamp with his bride  lydia levassor

Marcel Duchamp with his Bride, Lydia Levassor

5 of 20

Fischli weiss  the three sisters  1984

Fischli/ Weiss

The Three Sisters, 1984

6 of 20

Jean michel frank  nelson rockefeller apartment  1934

Jean-Michel Frank

Nelson Rockefeller Apartment, 1934

7 of 20

Horst p. horst  cy twombly. untitled  5  1966

Horst P. Horst

Cy Twombly. Untitled #5, 1966

8 of 20

Dora kallmus  d ora in hat  1910

Dora Kallmus

D'Ora in Hat, 1910

9 of 20

Jean michel frank  cabinet  1935

Jean-Michel Frank

Cabinet, 1935

10 of 20

Henry van de velde  smoking room 1895

Henry van de Velde

Smoking Room,1895

11 of 20

Horst p. horst   carmen face massage  new york   1946

Horst P. Horst

'Carmen Face Massage, New York', 1946

12 of 20

Gio ponti and piero fornasetti unique cabinet  1940

Gio Ponti and Piero Fornasetti

Unique Cabinet, 1940

13 of 20

Horst p. horst  cy twombly and tatiana franchetti 1966

Horst P. Horst

Cy Twombly and Tatiana Franchetti,1966

14 of 20

Jean michel frank  library of mimi pecci blunt  1926

Jean-Michel Frank

Library of Mimi Pecci-Blunt, 1926

15 of 20

Peter lindbergh for vogue italia  may 1998

Peter Lindbergh for Vogue Italia, May 1998

16 of 20

Horst p. horst  birthday gloves  new york  1947

Horst P. Horst

Birthday Gloves, New York, 1947

17 of 20

Peter lindbergh  comme des garcons  1980

Peter Lindbergh, Comme des Garcons, 1980

18 of 20

Jean michel frank  smoking room in jean michel frank s apartment  paris  1925

Jean-Michel Frank

Smoking Room in Jean-Michel Frank's Apartment, Paris, 1925

19 of 20

Horst p. horst  mrs. henry middleton  the sandra payson. photo by

Horst P. Horst

Mrs. Henry Middleton, the Sandra Payson

20 of 20


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